Ultimate street survival / track attack combo
#31
Rennlist Member
Update on the Ferrodo DS 2500 pads.
These got to be the worst "track pads" I ever had on my car.
After exactly one lap in Laguna Seca while breaking for turn 2, I smelled the typical "my brake pads are overheating" smell and the brake pedal started to get very soft. I finished the rest of the lap slow & careful and pulled into the pits and the bad smell from the pads was overwhelming.
I fortunately had a set of "just in case" Pagid Yellow with me and the other 3 sessions went great.
What a piece of garbage these pads are: squeal like hell on the street and dangerous on the track.
If any of the posters who like them wants a whole set (f/r) of this junk you can have them for free, you just have to pay the shipping.
These got to be the worst "track pads" I ever had on my car.
After exactly one lap in Laguna Seca while breaking for turn 2, I smelled the typical "my brake pads are overheating" smell and the brake pedal started to get very soft. I finished the rest of the lap slow & careful and pulled into the pits and the bad smell from the pads was overwhelming.
I fortunately had a set of "just in case" Pagid Yellow with me and the other 3 sessions went great.
What a piece of garbage these pads are: squeal like hell on the street and dangerous on the track.
If any of the posters who like them wants a whole set (f/r) of this junk you can have them for free, you just have to pay the shipping.
Thanks for the review Chris.
I'm looking to upgrade my pads from stock and this thread looks like it has some valid info. I could go with Pagid and just keep them as dedicated DE pads but it sounds like the endless pads may be a decent compromise and suitable for my DE level.
#32
I dunno', I have no experience with gas stations and air tanks - it may be crap but your example is not a very good one based on Physics and the ideal gas law. When you put air in a confined space and compress it the air will get warmer. When you expand that volume of air (like spraying it against your hand) it will cool. Now, the warm air that had previously been under pressure carries moisture (the concept of humidity; the warmer the air, the more moisture is can hold) but rapid cooling, like being released from pressure, will result in the air no longer able to hold the same amount of moisture - hence condensation and water on your hand. Additionally, and perhaps more specifically, the sprayed gas station air, as it is cool, will cool things that it comes in contact with. The micro-layer of air around these objects cools and more water condenses - the obvious example is condensation on a can of cold soda.
So, all things being equal, compressed air in a tank going into a compressed environment, like a tire, should be a direct transfer. Any impurities the air may have picked up in the tank will remain (but I don't see what that has to do with the functional quality of the air or how it may degrade your car's performance.
So, all things being equal, compressed air in a tank going into a compressed environment, like a tire, should be a direct transfer. Any impurities the air may have picked up in the tank will remain (but I don't see what that has to do with the functional quality of the air or how it may degrade your car's performance.
Thanks for the review Chris.
I'm looking to upgrade my pads from stock and this thread looks like it has some valid info. I could go with Pagid and just keep them as dedicated DE pads but it sounds like the endless pads may be a decent compromise and suitable for my DE level.
I'm looking to upgrade my pads from stock and this thread looks like it has some valid info. I could go with Pagid and just keep them as dedicated DE pads but it sounds like the endless pads may be a decent compromise and suitable for my DE level.
#33
Sorry for the nub post but how much have pads and rotors changed over the past few years? Ive been out of the game for a bit while living in NYC and going to grad school.
I used to always caution younger drivers away from upgraded pads designed for some or full track use because they would not work as well when they were cold (which also held true to highway driving). The last thing you want to have happen is someone have to hit the breaks in an emergency after a long time coasting on the highway and have them not respond adequately.
How well do stock 997 (standard brakes) rotors hold up to upgraded pads? Is there a limit where you need to look at upgrading them to avoid warping?
I used to always caution younger drivers away from upgraded pads designed for some or full track use because they would not work as well when they were cold (which also held true to highway driving). The last thing you want to have happen is someone have to hit the breaks in an emergency after a long time coasting on the highway and have them not respond adequately.
How well do stock 997 (standard brakes) rotors hold up to upgraded pads? Is there a limit where you need to look at upgrading them to avoid warping?
#34
Rennlist Member
Sorry for the nub post but how much have pads and rotors changed over the past few years? Ive been out of the game for a bit while living in NYC and going to grad school.
I used to always caution younger drivers away from upgraded pads designed for some or full track use because they would not work as well when they were cold (which also held true to highway driving). The last thing you want to have happen is someone have to hit the breaks in an emergency after a long time coasting on the highway and have them not respond adequately.
How well do stock 997 (standard brakes) rotors hold up to upgraded pads? Is there a limit where you need to look at upgrading them to avoid warping?
I used to always caution younger drivers away from upgraded pads designed for some or full track use because they would not work as well when they were cold (which also held true to highway driving). The last thing you want to have happen is someone have to hit the breaks in an emergency after a long time coasting on the highway and have them not respond adequately.
How well do stock 997 (standard brakes) rotors hold up to upgraded pads? Is there a limit where you need to look at upgrading them to avoid warping?
#35
Rennlist Member
but this is basically what happens at gas stations. It doesn't go from environment to tire, but from environment, to wet environment, to tire. The portable compressor is suggested because it provides a more 'direct transfer' when you don't have access to nitrogen/dry air.
#36
Rotors are all the same. I personally like slotted dba 4000 - those are holding well and cost about same as stock drilled. Stock pads i do not use, for street pads with least dust i think are ebc red stuff, now i use stop tech street pads. For track you cannot use either. Lower run groups folks, green/yellow can probably use ebc yellow stuff but they can fade if pushed far and require good cooling. Any track setup requires air ducts, gt2 or at least smaller gt3 ducts in front and ducts in rear, upper and lower. With proper air flow your rotors will crack less. Also, what is good about dba rotors - they have color marks do you can see level of overheat somewhat. I have in a box both rs29 pagids and pfc08 pads, pfc has obviously better bite but makes rotors very hot. It is probably not smart to run them without ducts in place.
Gratzi!
#37
Good point. If this case the portable compressor in the frunk should not be any improvement.
#38
Hankook RS-3 Version 2, with new 2014 compound, is now available for stock 19" sizes. Also newly available is Michelin Pilot Sport Cup 2. The Michelin Pilot Sport Cups previously had a UTQG rating of 80 utqg, which was a little low for both street and competition purposes. The rating is now 180 on the Michelin Pilot Sport Cup 2, classing them amongst AD08R, RE-11A, RS-3, etc. The Michelins also cost 50-80% more than anything else in the same category.
The new RS-3 is starting to sound very interesting, especially with street tire competition classes going with 200+ rated tires in 2015. I hope to be able to try these.
The new RS-3 is starting to sound very interesting, especially with street tire competition classes going with 200+ rated tires in 2015. I hope to be able to try these.
#40
Rennlist Member
Thanks for the update. I'm leaning towards the AD08's for my next tire.
#43
#44
Race Director
Just did a track event at Homestead Miami...2 day event. Last day at noon I put stock pads and stock shells back on just to see as I never drive the car at the track like this.
The Yokohama AD08's once they got warm and I trusted them. They are about 2 seconds a lap off shaved Nitto NT01. This is not too bad. The Yokohama NT01 are up for track duty for sure and I've come to absolutely love them on the street.
The Yokohama AD08's once they got warm and I trusted them. They are about 2 seconds a lap off shaved Nitto NT01. This is not too bad. The Yokohama NT01 are up for track duty for sure and I've come to absolutely love them on the street.
#45
Race Director
Ride height is not adjustable on Carrera based cars unless you replace the coilovers with height adjustable versions like I have.
Stock car the max front negative is about -1...not a lot of camber....but I'd suggest to max it out up front and run -1.5 degrees in the rear.
I've have a few mods to allow for more adjustment and lately I've reduced some camber and hear is what I run....FYI great on the street no issue.
-2.2 front zero,toe
-1.7 rear 2mm toe in per side
I was running -2.6 front and -2.2 rear....too much for R comp Nitto NT01
Stock car the max front negative is about -1...not a lot of camber....but I'd suggest to max it out up front and run -1.5 degrees in the rear.
I've have a few mods to allow for more adjustment and lately I've reduced some camber and hear is what I run....FYI great on the street no issue.
-2.2 front zero,toe
-1.7 rear 2mm toe in per side
I was running -2.6 front and -2.2 rear....too much for R comp Nitto NT01