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DIY: 997 Rear Seat Delete

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Old 08-18-2016, 12:55 AM
  #31  
balefire
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anyone interested in selling just the seat bottoms for a 997 rear seat? the set I purchased is a little "rougher" than I imagined.
if you have one avail, PM me. thanks!
Old 04-29-2017, 02:29 PM
  #32  
kpl
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Before I start pulling things apart, does anyone know how to remove the center mount (silver colored thing)?


Also, does the carpet under the rear window, behind the rear seats, just pull out, or do you need to remove the side trim?
Old 07-12-2017, 04:49 PM
  #33  
yuantrouble
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Originally Posted by ATLDiver
Ok when you say the side panels, are you referring to the side trim panels? If so, where do you remove?
These are at the base of the back rests on the sides of the wall. Here's a pic. It also shows the snaps on the cover. I had to pry pretty hard to pop these off.

Old 12-09-2017, 02:16 PM
  #34  
love2drive
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Default why do this? weight savings?

I've debated removing the rear seats on my 2012 997 GTS for several reasons:
1.) less weight <-- although that will only be 20 lbs maybe. Does anyone know of the actual weight savings?
2.) less obstruction to rear speakers <-- the seat backs can be folded down so that isn't much of an issue..also..there is little difference in sound with seats folded up or down. One thing I did notice is that the rear seat belt buckle can vibrate against the seat and plastic side door/window paneling when playing music very loudly. That may or may not be alleviated by removing the rear seats. Probably would have to also remove the seat belts which is more involving I think.
3.) A change <-- I guess it;s always fun try small changes. Cheap thrills.
4.) <-- can't think of any other reasons to take out seats..feel free to chime in.

Thanks
Old 12-11-2017, 12:30 PM
  #35  
Appraiser
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Originally Posted by love2drive
I've debated removing the rear seats on my 2012 997 GTS for several reasons:
1.) less weight <-- although that will only be 20 lbs maybe. Does anyone know of the actual weight savings?
2.) less obstruction to rear speakers <-- the seat backs can be folded down so that isn't much of an issue..also..there is little difference in sound with seats folded up or down. One thing I did notice is that the rear seat belt buckle can vibrate against the seat and plastic side door/window paneling when playing music very loudly. That may or may not be alleviated by removing the rear seats. Probably would have to also remove the seat belts which is more involving I think.
3.) A change <-- I guess it;s always fun try small changes. Cheap thrills.
4.) <-- can't think of any other reasons to take out seats..feel free to chime in.

Thanks
1 & 3) I'pull my rear seats out before track days and put them back in when I get home, never weighed them but the seat back section feels pretty hefty - I think 10-15 lbs isn't far off. It takes 5 minutes and is free. Vendor sites are asking $625 for the RS door pull strap conversion kit which saves about a pound so this is a god send! Rear seat delete (free - 15lbs), driver/passenger racing seats (~$3,000 - 60 lbs), smaller battery (~$180 - 15lbs), lighter cats/muffler (~$2,000 - 20lbs) and smaller/lighter wheels (~$1,600 - 20lbs) are going to be the most meaningful reverse able weight drops for the car for the money. Figure 130 lbs +-10% is possible for about $7k using quality parts. If I count calories for a few weeks I can shave another 5-10 lbs for free, too. A British company makes some carbon fiber parts including the 3rd brake light which saves 7 lbs for relatively modest money. You can always go bonkers with the Porsche will sell the GT2RS carbon fiber hood for $9k which'll save you 20 lbs, too. Some suspension pieces will lose a few pounds over factory units, too. These cars just don't lose much weight easily - also consider where the weight is coming off and how it's exacerbating the front/rear weight distribution. Then other things like a 3rd radiator kit, expanded oil pan and roll bar will add a lot of that weight saved right back on or more should you decide to go with bigger brakes and wider wheels/tires. At which point that 944 race car, which cost less than all these mods, is still waiting to pass you at the second corner.

But most of these parts have another tangible aesthetic/audible flair to them, too, so I think it's all money well spent within the eyes and ears of the beholder. Like those RS door pull straps, if money wasn't the issue I'd be all over them.

That doesn't solve your rattling problem with the seat belts, though, maybe some felt tape or buckle them in place?
Old 09-08-2018, 05:59 PM
  #36  
Matthew Yonan
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Thank you for posting this, made doing it a breeze!
Old 09-08-2018, 06:28 PM
  #37  
Meursault88
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Originally Posted by Appraiser
1 & 3) I'pull my rear seats out before track days and put them back in when I get home, never weighed them but the seat back section feels pretty hefty - I think 10-15 lbs isn't far off. It takes 5 minutes and is free. Vendor sites are asking $625 for the RS door pull strap conversion kit which saves about a pound so this is a god send! Rear seat delete (free - 15lbs), driver/passenger racing seats (~$3,000 - 60 lbs), smaller battery (~$180 - 15lbs), lighter cats/muffler (~$2,000 - 20lbs) and smaller/lighter wheels (~$1,600 - 20lbs) are going to be the most meaningful reverse able weight drops for the car for the money. Figure 130 lbs +-10% is possible for about $7k using quality parts. If I count calories for a few weeks I can shave another 5-10 lbs for free, too. A British company makes some carbon fiber parts including the 3rd brake light which saves 7 lbs for relatively modest money. You can always go bonkers with the Porsche will sell the GT2RS carbon fiber hood for $9k which'll save you 20 lbs, too. Some suspension pieces will lose a few pounds over factory units, too. These cars just don't lose much weight easily - also consider where the weight is coming off and how it's exacerbating the front/rear weight distribution. Then other things like a 3rd radiator kit, expanded oil pan and roll bar will add a lot of that weight saved right back on or more should you decide to go with bigger brakes and wider wheels/tires. At which point that 944 race car, which cost less than all these mods, is still waiting to pass you at the second corner.

But most of these parts have another tangible aesthetic/audible flair to them, too, so I think it's all money well spent within the eyes and ears of the beholder. Like those RS door pull straps, if money wasn't the issue I'd be all over them.

That doesn't solve your rattling problem with the seat belts, though, maybe some felt tape or buckle them in place?
OD on laxatives before the big event. Strippers and cyclists do this to knock another 3-5lbs off.
Old 03-22-2020, 08:54 AM
  #38  
mjposner
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Pulled mine and weighed everything, about 20lbs.
Old 09-22-2020, 10:38 AM
  #39  
axl886
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Originally Posted by dasams


Hi, my car came missing the black plastic cap (I supposed it simply swivels up on the metal rod?) as shown above. Tried to find the p/n in pelican but to no avail.

Can somebody check and give me a headsup? Much appreciated.

ADD: Just colorized and blew up the pic, can somebody confirm it as: 996-522-431-02?

Last edited by axl886; 09-22-2020 at 10:41 AM.
Old 09-22-2020, 11:17 AM
  #40  
nicogri
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I had 1 remved to make room for a child seat for a year and just put it back in few weeks ago while my daughter is growing and switching to different seat...

Procédure is pretty straightforward ;-)
Old 09-24-2020, 04:22 PM
  #41  
workhurts
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Thanks. 10 mins worth of work tops. Definitely an M8 triple square.

If if anyone remembers, or can look when they do this. The bar the kinks that two seat backs has a rounded side and a flat side in the middle. Which side is up? Noticed it was slightly different after I removed everything.

18lb weight savings. Perfect. I can pig out all winter now.
Old 09-24-2020, 05:27 PM
  #42  
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Originally Posted by nicogri
I had 1 remved to make room for a child seat for a year and just put it back in few weeks ago while my daughter is growing and switching to different seat...

Procédure is pretty straightforward ;-)
So it is possible, after separating the two, to leave one in place while the other is removed? Thanks
Old 09-24-2020, 06:25 PM
  #43  
DesmoSD
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Originally Posted by axl886
Hi, my car came missing the black plastic cap (I supposed it simply swivels up on the metal rod?) as shown above. Tried to find the p/n in pelican but to no avail.

Can somebody check and give me a headsup? Much appreciated.

ADD: Just colorized and blew up the pic, can somebody confirm it as: 996-522-431-02?
6) 9965224310201C- satin black
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Old 09-24-2020, 08:51 PM
  #44  
workhurts
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Originally Posted by RacerWannabe
So it is possible, after separating the two, to leave one in place while the other is removed? Thanks
I'd guess if you buy part #4 in the diagram and hack off one end you'd be set, otherwise you'll have one end of that rod sticking out.
Old 11-28-2020, 11:01 AM
  #45  
AxelR
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Originally Posted by djdevvydev
Guys - the reason everyone is stripping these bolts may be because - at least on my 2006 - they are tri-square bolts, NOT Torx!

An 8mm trisquare driver makes short work of this job.
This is correct. The bits needed are a Torx 25 for the center screw and an 8mm triple square for the two side screws. 2012 997.2 CS


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