1990nein

My mechanic has a Hunter and knows how to use it! All numbers are exact to what I specified. He was also able to get more camber than anything else I've seen on stock 997.

Down the street is Tires Central. They've also got an sweet Hunter tire changer so you needn't worry about your rims getting scratched. Machine does it all!

Only thing is I'm not sure why there is a different setback at the front driver wheel. That wheel previously hit a very bad pothole (warped the barrel, wheel replaced). Strut mount was creaking/sticky, which I've presently alleviated with some Kroil, and the mechanic also mentioned 1 spring was bad/stiffer than the others. I'm assuming it was the same corner. I'm back there next week for a full brake refresh, but until then, thoughts?

mdrums

Carrera based cars have a lot of rubber in the suspension mounts. This can lead to numbers being out a little but still with in "spec".

Now that you have you car aligned to your specs go drive it for a few weeks and put it back on the alignment machine. Your numbers will not be the same as the were but probably still with in "spec". Again due to all the rubber at the mount points.

mdrums

Also with -1.1 front camber your rear should be no more than .5 degree difference....I'd put it at -1.5 rear. For a track type of alignment you always have more front negative camber than rear camber....I'm running -2.5 front and -2 rear camber. It's excessive for street driving though. Your toe numbers are perfect.

Spiffyjiff

yep, i was just thinking that. and that's what i'm running too - perfect set up for track.

ebb

If you want perfection, make sure you have the technician add the driver weight to the car when performing the alignment. This is assuming you are driving alone the majority of the time. It makes a significant difference, just try getting in and out of the car with it on the rack and see what I mean.

floatingkiwi

By the looks of that sheet you now have toe OUT at the rear??

Bruce In Philly

-2.1 rear camber..... that is quite a bit, no? That will lead to that infamous inside wear on those tires. I had mine dialed out... don't have the spec with me.... for the sole purpose of increasing tread life. Does this increase in the rear really help handling and if so, in what way?

Peace
Bruce in Philly

mdrums

Yes especially for the street. Even on the track it takes extreme Corning forces to be able to use that much rear camber. Also camber is tire and track dependent as well.

GreggT

Saw that too.....a bit surprising......not OE spec.....but I'm no expert.
I do know that.....excessive toe-out actually has much to do with that inside tire wear.......and combined w/signif neg camber it pretty much guarantees a bit shorter life.

1990nein

Lol thanks. I checked what I sent him and it was my fault, I had the +/- reversed.

I think I might keep it like that for a bit and play with it, sounds like fun actually.

mdrums

Rear toe out is DANGEROUS.....in hard braking and cornering

StormRune

With the negative camber, as the car body rolls out in a hard turn the rear tire transitions to presenting its flattest face to the pavement giving more traction on the most loaded outside tire. With a tire that has no negative camber when sitting normally, in hard turns the tire rolls onto its outside edge and lifts on the inside edge giving a reduction in lateral traction.

GreggT

OE spec for rear is -1.3 to -1.8
-2.1 is not that excessive, though probably more than most would request for the street.
Pretty common to have -2.5 to -3.0 if you find yourself on the track a lot.....and things besides tire life have a priority.

1990nein

IMO problem is that the front is under spec, rather than the rear being too much. I may be altering the handling but I think I will have more overall grip by maxing the limited amount of camber. The feeling of being so flat on banked onramps/interchanges is worth it alone Car is currently front toe-in, and as the car is currently set up it seems to work to counterbalance the rear toe-out. It is easy to induce understeer with lift if you feel the rear wanting to step out. Front toe in is stable but not good if you want to go fast.

After a few corners last night, I started thinking about going toe out on all corners and basically have counterfeit 991 RWS . I imagine rotation would be excellent and would allow for a constant throttle. Rear toe out can be good for autocross, being that you can use 3 wheels to pull, rather than 2 wheels to push (and scrub). However, at the track, since much of the time made is made at corner exits, there would have to be a 'safety' allocation of traction for bump steer on exit, probably reducing overall exit speeds.

Autocross this sunday and track day next weekend. Front toe needs to be fixed regardless. What to do what to do...

GreggT

Have you driven the car at speed yet?.....say at least 100 to 150 on a longer straight. I'd be curious how comfortable you were with the car's stability.....and now imagine you are one of 3 or 4 cars, fairly close, on that straight. After your track day please report back.