user 72902

I'm getting ready to replace mine and wondered if anyone has DIY'd this project? I looked up the instructions and it calls for the engine to be dropped 40mm and I was curious if/how anyone has done this install. Thanks!

Ptech1

Not exactly the easiest DIY. But yes, the engine does need to be lowered from the chassis. Easiest way I could see without a lift is to have the car as high on jack stands as possible, then lower the engine supported by a jack and 2x4 placed on the stronger edge of the oil pan.
From there, be ready to use force while thinking the reservoir will never fit between body and engine on the way out and back in, all while trying not to break other items made of plastic.

USMC_DS1

The Water Pump DIY's will provide you with some insight re how to remove the engine support bracket... should help with this as well.

Ptech1

No need to remove. But yes, removing the two 18mm nuts that hold the cradle to the engine mounts from the bottom will allow the engine to drop far enough while leaving it attached.

user 72902

Thanks for the input!

Lvt19672

Wow all that work to change out the reservoir, I had no idea.

PelicanParts.com

Our replacement instructions may assist and yes, we lowered the engine slightly as mentioned in paragraph 11:
Replacing Your Coolant Tank

If you are shopping replacement tanks, click here for product information within our catalog.

Let us know what questions you have.

Mark/Pelican Parts

Rotmilky

I did this as a DIY project about 6 months back without lowering the engine. While it was possible to do it, if I had to do it again, I would lower the engine a bit. It it a very tight fit. And there are lots of wires and such that can get yanked out of place on that side. In fact, I somehow managed to disconnect a coil from a sparkplug doing it. Considering it's screwed on there with two screws, I have no idea how I did that.

I also smashed the reservoir level sensor...although I can't recall if that was going in or coming out.

So yea, you can see it's possible to DIY something and screw it up in just about every way possible and still get it back together. Overall, outside of the really tight fit (and the subsequent wire yanking and smashing I did), it was a really straightforward process. Lower the motor and I think it'd be dead simple. Oh yea, I used a turkey baster to empty the reservoir. Shrug. Maybe that's useful. Good luck.

--Von

997_rich

I did this job yesterday... and yes I had to drop the engine about 6cm. I just undid the rear engine mounts and supported the engine with a piece of wood and a floor jack (not it the center of the pan of course- around the edge).

I was not expecting this job to be so involved. I should've read up on it beforehand. usually I can do something like this in 30 minutes but it took probably 2-3 hours.

I also broke the level sensor in the process of re-installing the tank. I found I had to install the tank without the level sensor and then install the level sensor once the tank is in place.

Sniff

Anyone know if there is a DIY (with photos) on how to lower the engine? Also, what could you potentially screw up? I have no problem doing any of the routine maintenance jobs on my 997, but to be quite honest with you, I'm a bit intimidated by any DIY that calls for lowering the motor since I've never done it before. It's unfortunate because replacing the coolant reservoir appears to be a pretty simple job if only you had enough room to access it.

Sean

USMC_DS1

Try the Water Pump DIY's. I had to lower the engine a bit in that project.

https://rennlist.com/forums/997-foru...ech-index.html

Rotmilky

Smashing the coolant level sensor on the way out is probably the most likely thing to happen. I smashed mine and had to order a new one. Best to pull the sensor before you remove the reservoir. It's on the right side of the reservoir, roughly centered and near the bottom. It's a small gray plug. I think it rotates 90 degrees toward the front of the car and then slides out.

I think I also knocked a vacuum line loose. It slid back into place, but I happened to notice that I accidently did that.

Sniff

OK good to know. I'll try to remember that for when I do this job.

Can anyone comment on the things you could possibly screw up when dropping the motor? What are the gotchas?

Sean

Silverbullet911

The DYI is straight forward. Follow the Pelican Parts instructions and there should be no issues. Did not use a turkey baster, just unclamped the hose and a bucket. If you have not already done so, you should consider changing the water pump, thermostat and servo belt at the same time. I did all four a week ago. BTW a proper jack, ramps and an impact gun will make the DYI smoother. Good Luck.

Rotmilky

The motor can only lower so far before the transmission will bang on a cross support that runs under the motor/trans. I'm not sure if there is some kind of other part that will catch the motor before then, but at a minimum the transmission will ultimately bang on that crossmember. Besides suspending the weight of the motor off the end of the transmission...which I can't imagine would be good for the transmission...there are hard coolant hoses running off the bottom transmission and motor. I could imagine resting the weight of the motor and trans on those hard lines wouldn't be good for them. So, I'd put some jack stands below the motor that will catch it before it can lower too far. Also, I'd try to make sure the jack that is supporting them can be let down in a slow and controllable manner.