Clutch work being done
#1
Racer
Thread Starter
Clutch work being done
FYI - Just adding to the collective "wear/failure/repair" wisdom.
I have 54000 miles on my 06 C2S and the clutch started to slip. I took it to a local independent yesterday and went to check on it at lunch just now. The plastic end cap broke off the clutch slave cylinder rod that actuates the clutch release arm. What is supposed to be plastic on metal contact was metal on metal and looked to be chewing up the release arm a little. So, getting new clutch and slave cylinder. Also, replaced rear main seal preventatively. Estimate is $1800 at this point. Shouldn't be any more surprises (I hope) since the tranny is out and the new seal is in.
Slave cylinder pic: http://www.carid.com/2006-porsche-99...m-7836806.html
Clutch release arm pic: http://www.carid.com/2005-porsche-99...m-8894662.html
I have 54000 miles on my 06 C2S and the clutch started to slip. I took it to a local independent yesterday and went to check on it at lunch just now. The plastic end cap broke off the clutch slave cylinder rod that actuates the clutch release arm. What is supposed to be plastic on metal contact was metal on metal and looked to be chewing up the release arm a little. So, getting new clutch and slave cylinder. Also, replaced rear main seal preventatively. Estimate is $1800 at this point. Shouldn't be any more surprises (I hope) since the tranny is out and the new seal is in.
Slave cylinder pic: http://www.carid.com/2006-porsche-99...m-7836806.html
Clutch release arm pic: http://www.carid.com/2005-porsche-99...m-8894662.html
#2
Drifting
Ask to see all the used taken out parts. That's what I do. Not that I don't trust my shop, just like to SEE the part, while I'm sliding over my cash. I just gives me a better understanding of why what where when = Wallet
#3
Racer
Thread Starter
Good point. I neglected to mention that when I stopped by the shop, I was taken back to the car to see for myself. If I had not stopped by, he would have taken pics and sent them to me.
#6
Slave cylinder failures are a common issue. Pivot arm and pressure plate spring tension hold the broken actuation arm and tip in place until it is either removed for clutch replacement, or begins to make noise during operation.
#7
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Chris,
Sorry to hear about your situation. I would be interested to know what indy you are using for this work and your unfiltered evaluation once the work has been completed. While I don't need a clutch (yet), I always like to collect the information early.
I assume the $1800 is parts and labor with pressure plate, bearing and clutch disk plus the other items you mentioned, correct? PM me the info if you prefer to keep it private.
Sorry to hear about your situation. I would be interested to know what indy you are using for this work and your unfiltered evaluation once the work has been completed. While I don't need a clutch (yet), I always like to collect the information early.
I assume the $1800 is parts and labor with pressure plate, bearing and clutch disk plus the other items you mentioned, correct? PM me the info if you prefer to keep it private.
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#8
Racer
Thread Starter
Ok - here's the story so far....
Got my car this morning. Clutch replaced with OEM Sachs clutch kit plus slave cylinder plus clutch release arm. Bled the slave cylinder. Also rear main seal replaced. Total $2650.
Driving away, the clutch pedal felt very different from before I took it in and to my best recollection, different from other cars I test drove. I've had this car a year so its the only one I'm truly familiar with. I called them and asked about it and they said - it's normal. I couldn't take it back right away because I was going to a 3/4 day long meeting.
The pedal used to feel consistent and continuous resistance. I wouldn't say it was light or heavy. But it felt the same way all the way in and out. Now the pedal is rather light to 1/2 way down or 3/5 down and then the pressure increases to what feels "normal". On the way back up, it's kind of the opposite. Also, the engagement point is at the bottom 2/5 and I am convinced that the engagement point has moved closer to the floor. I killed the car backing out of a parking spot today. Finally, on release, the last 3/5 of pedal travel back up/out ends up with a kind of "sproing" feeling or popping (as I've read someone else complain about). To say it "slams" out would be too strong , but it does come out fast/hard. The service tech said they "adjusted the clutch pedal" which I thought was odd. Anyway, I'm taking it back on Monday to see what they say, but I'm curious if anyone on this board thinks this is "normal" or "they all do that"? Also, is the clutch pedal adjustable? I have a C2S and supposed to have self-adjusting clutch so I would assume pedal does not need to be adjustable and pressure should be continuous/constant, but I don't know.
Thanks in advance.
Got my car this morning. Clutch replaced with OEM Sachs clutch kit plus slave cylinder plus clutch release arm. Bled the slave cylinder. Also rear main seal replaced. Total $2650.
Driving away, the clutch pedal felt very different from before I took it in and to my best recollection, different from other cars I test drove. I've had this car a year so its the only one I'm truly familiar with. I called them and asked about it and they said - it's normal. I couldn't take it back right away because I was going to a 3/4 day long meeting.
The pedal used to feel consistent and continuous resistance. I wouldn't say it was light or heavy. But it felt the same way all the way in and out. Now the pedal is rather light to 1/2 way down or 3/5 down and then the pressure increases to what feels "normal". On the way back up, it's kind of the opposite. Also, the engagement point is at the bottom 2/5 and I am convinced that the engagement point has moved closer to the floor. I killed the car backing out of a parking spot today. Finally, on release, the last 3/5 of pedal travel back up/out ends up with a kind of "sproing" feeling or popping (as I've read someone else complain about). To say it "slams" out would be too strong , but it does come out fast/hard. The service tech said they "adjusted the clutch pedal" which I thought was odd. Anyway, I'm taking it back on Monday to see what they say, but I'm curious if anyone on this board thinks this is "normal" or "they all do that"? Also, is the clutch pedal adjustable? I have a C2S and supposed to have self-adjusting clutch so I would assume pedal does not need to be adjustable and pressure should be continuous/constant, but I don't know.
Thanks in advance.
#9
Race Director
Doesn't read like I would expect a new clutch to behave.
For a replacement clutch essentially the majority of the hardware is new so I would expect it to feel just like a new clutch.
I've never had a clutch done on my Porsches but I have had the clutch done on two other cars and in both cases the clutch feel after was the clutch feel when the car was new.
Kind of hard to screw up a clutch job but it can be done if the wrong parts are used and this includes mixing clutch kit parts or the parts are installed wrong.
However, the behavior doesn't have to be due to a bad job per se: The behavior could be due to a bad clutch fluid flush/bleed.
I'd say you should take the car back and have the clutch looked into. Unfortunately, unless it is something external to the clutch proper this means the transmission will have to come out of the car. The shop could be reluctant to go this far and may work to get you to accept it as it is. You could hear "they all do that", though it may not be stated explicitly. You need to be prepared to ask that a similar car be available so you can confirm this yourself.
(You can visit a dealer and just sit in a few new/used car and depress the clutch and perhaps get a feel for what new/used clutches feel like and then compare this feel to what your's feels like before you visit the shop.)
For a replacement clutch essentially the majority of the hardware is new so I would expect it to feel just like a new clutch.
I've never had a clutch done on my Porsches but I have had the clutch done on two other cars and in both cases the clutch feel after was the clutch feel when the car was new.
Kind of hard to screw up a clutch job but it can be done if the wrong parts are used and this includes mixing clutch kit parts or the parts are installed wrong.
However, the behavior doesn't have to be due to a bad job per se: The behavior could be due to a bad clutch fluid flush/bleed.
I'd say you should take the car back and have the clutch looked into. Unfortunately, unless it is something external to the clutch proper this means the transmission will have to come out of the car. The shop could be reluctant to go this far and may work to get you to accept it as it is. You could hear "they all do that", though it may not be stated explicitly. You need to be prepared to ask that a similar car be available so you can confirm this yourself.
(You can visit a dealer and just sit in a few new/used car and depress the clutch and perhaps get a feel for what new/used clutches feel like and then compare this feel to what your's feels like before you visit the shop.)
#10
Racer
Thread Starter
I agree - I'm thinking bleeding, but now the pedal won't return on its own. Don't know if that would be caused by/related to bleeding, but I know for sure they can't say "they all do that"
#11
Rennlist Member
Sure would. Actually this is probably good news in that it's more likely a clutch bleed issue rather than something bad with the clutch itself. Most cars have a specific method that must be followed when bleeding the clutch.. I helped a buddy this summer replace his clutch on his Subaru and it definitely had a few quirks in the bleed process.
#13
Poseur
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member