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Life after range 6 overrev moneyshift

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Old 06-26-2013, 02:18 PM
  #16  
GSIRM3
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Originally Posted by SARGEPUG
Think you are wayyyy overthinking this and didn't need to get it checked out in the first place! Everybody makes mistakes, I've had the rev limiter kick in a couple times on multiple cars. I think that if you let the clutch fully out, the rev limiter would have saved the engine, but you would have most definitely had tranny damage. However, that's a moot point, since you caught it.
Dude, the rev limiter has 0 effect on a mis-shift overrev like this.
Old 06-26-2013, 02:44 PM
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WindyCityC2S
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Originally Posted by SARGEPUG
How does that make sense, if it's automatically triggered by a certain rpm? I would think that it might not catch it at the 7k range, because the rpm will immediately jump much higher, but at that high point, engine would then cut out. So maybe what you are saying is by the time it kicks in, it's already too late? That makes more sense to me.
The rev limiter stops the engine from continuing to climb in rpms. If you are in second gear and floor it, but never shift, the rev limiter will cut fuel (and/or ignition and/or close the throtle body--not sure on this car) to prevent the car from over-reving. For demonstration, lets say 7000 rpm in 2nd = 65 mph. All future speeds and rpm are for discussion only, so please no flaming...

A "money shift" is engaging the transmission into a gear that will exceed the redline. So going from 3rd to 2nd at 80mph. The engine would need to spin at 9000 rpm to go 80. But if the clutch is let out with the car in 2nd at 80, the engine has to go 9000 rpm. Nothing the computer can do can stop that. Cutting throtle, fuel, etc will not have any impact since it is a mechanical coupling between the motor and tranny. The rev limiter is useless in this case.

I hope that helps...
Old 06-26-2013, 03:01 PM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by SARGEPUG
How does that make sense, if it's automatically triggered by a certain rpm? I would think that it might not catch it at the 7k range, because the rpm will immediately jump much higher, but at that high point, engine would then cut out. So maybe what you are saying is by the time it kicks in, it's already too late? That makes more sense to me.
the safety net cuts throttle, not engine. when you money shift, the wheels are still connected to engine (assuming you leave clutch out/dont catch it in time) so basically it's the wheels/momentum driving the revs in the engine. or something like that.

not only that, i've seen PDK's with overrevs. not just on these forums but the other day first-hand - a 2010 turbo was having issues on track so i used my durametric to check things out and, in the process, noticed he had about 1000 count in R1.
Old 06-26-2013, 03:38 PM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by 7500rpm
SBPORSCHE, if it makes you feel better, I have hundreds of ignitions in ranges 4, 5 & 6 and thousands in ranges 1, 2 & 3 IIRC. And I am quite certain I am still adding to them regularly, not from moneyshifts but simply from overly aggressive driving in the track. I will PM you when I blow my engine up due to these 'over-revs' but I really do not think you have anything to worry about.
jhbrennan, the range numbers make sense. It does take a split second to realize that you have mis-shifted so the revs accumulates at the high end. After you react by jumping back on the clutch, the flywheel will continue to add a few more ignitions before allowing the revs to drop. With the clutch disengaged, the engine revs drop quickly pass thru those lower ranges.
The only way you can be getting over rev ignitions in range 4, 5, and 6 is by blowing your down shifts on the track. Might want to work on that or you'll be needing a new motor soon than later.
Old 06-26-2013, 04:53 PM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by LexVan
The only way you can be getting over rev ignitions in range 4, 5, and 6 is by blowing your down shifts on the track. Might want to work on that or you'll be needing a new motor soon than later.
Unfortunately those R4, 5 & 6 comes when I let a friend, cousin or someone else drive my car
I was accumulating R1, 2 & 3 simply from aiming to change at redline all the time and when I was trying to use the lap timer function of the car (don't bother, get a Trackmate). I have now changed my shifting point 200-300rpms below redline so I don't blow her up too quickly
BTW, it is normal to see a 'piramid' number of ignitions for range 1 thru 6 because people tend to over rev slightly most times, hence hits R1, 2 & 3 more than they do the upper ranges. In fact, running in sports mode delays the cut out a little so you can still accumulate the lower ranges in up shifts. OP's car probably never experienced an over rev until he money shifted. That's why his is different.
Old 06-26-2013, 05:05 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by 7500rpm
BTW, it is normal to see a 'piramid' number of ignitions for range 1 thru 6 because people tend to over rev slightly most times, hence hits R1, 2 & 3 more than they do the upper ranges.
Keep your toys away from those crazy cousins.

I am going to structure my response to you based on the use of your word selection- NORMAL.

It IS normal to have range #1 and range #2 over revs. 100's and even 1,000's. No problem. Good aggressive driving and shifting near redline.

It is LESS normal to have range #3 over-revs. Personally, I think these come from very slight mis shifts that are caught very-very early (clutch back in).

It is NOT normal to have range #4 range #5 and range #6 over-revs. These are from obvious abuse.
Old 06-26-2013, 07:48 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by LexVan
Keep your toys away from those crazy cousins.

I am going to structure my response to you based on the use of your word selection- NORMAL.

It IS normal to have range #1 and range #2 over revs. 100's and even 1,000's. No problem. Good aggressive driving and shifting near redline.

It is LESS normal to have range #3 over-revs. Personally, I think these come from very slight mis shifts that are caught very-very early (clutch back in).

It is NOT normal to have range #4 range #5 and range #6 over-revs. These are from obvious abuse.
It's possible to get Range 3 without a mis-shift - agressive driving can get you there. The rev limiter cannot stop an engine's rpm at the exact rpm threshhold for range 3 hence the overlap on acceleration. Ranges 4, 5 and 6 are defintiely a result of a mechanical over-rev (mis-shift).
Old 06-26-2013, 07:58 PM
  #23  
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SBPORSCHE, just continue to drive the car as normal, if everything runs fine after a few weeks you'll forget it ever happened.
But if you cant sleep , I have a good civic I'll swap you for....j/k
Old 06-26-2013, 09:07 PM
  #24  
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Lexvan, I will plug in my Durametric to check my over revs next week (after the boss leaves). I am commenting based on my recollection from 6-12 months ago. Right now it's all work and no play .....

Anyone knows for sure what each range is? I thought I read somewhere each range is 200rpm above the previous, starting from red line. However, OP says he hit 9,500rpms. That means the GTS redlines at 8,300?
Old 06-26-2013, 10:13 PM
  #25  
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Can someone explain how can you ever rev with a PDK? Thanks
Old 06-27-2013, 09:26 AM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by 7500rpm
Lexvan, I will plug in my Durametric to check my over revs next week (after the boss leaves). I am commenting based on my recollection from 6-12 months ago. Right now it's all work and no play .....

Anyone knows for sure what each range is? I thought I read somewhere each range is 200rpm above the previous, starting from red line. However, OP says he hit 9,500rpms. That means the GTS redlines at 8,300?
GTS redline is still 7,200:
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Old 06-27-2013, 09:28 AM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by jhbrennan
It's possible to get Range 3 without a mis-shift - agressive driving can get you there.
JHB, I don't doubt you, but for someone to get a range #3 over-rev, they must be hauling *** and be really hammering the rev-limiter.
Old 06-27-2013, 01:12 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by WindyCityC2S
The rev limiter stops the engine from continuing to climb in rpms. If you are in second gear and floor it, but never shift, the rev limiter will cut fuel (and/or ignition and/or close the throtle body--not sure on this car) to prevent the car from over-reving. For demonstration, lets say 7000 rpm in 2nd = 65 mph. All future speeds and rpm are for discussion only, so please no flaming...

A "money shift" is engaging the transmission into a gear that will exceed the redline. So going from 3rd to 2nd at 80mph. The engine would need to spin at 9000 rpm to go 80. But if the clutch is let out with the car in 2nd at 80, the engine has to go 9000 rpm. Nothing the computer can do can stop that. Cutting throtle, fuel, etc will not have any impact since it is a mechanical coupling between the motor and tranny. The rev limiter is useless in this case.

I hope that helps...
Understood and so it's basically what I was saying in my last sentence or actually posing as a question. It's just too late to have any effect. It might cut the throttle, fuel, etc, but doing that @ 9k makes you already toast!
Old 06-27-2013, 02:30 PM
  #29  
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You guys are the best. I greatly appreciate all of the input. I'm going to do my best to forget this ever happened- BUT I will forever be more deliberate with my shifting.
Many Thanks!!!!
Old 06-27-2013, 02:37 PM
  #30  
Spiffyjiff
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Originally Posted by SBPORSCHE
I'm going to do my best to forget this ever happened
pfft, just wait til you break your first windscreen (-been there-), track/road rash up your front end (-done that-), and get your first dent (-nailed it shut-).




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