How to Properly drive a Carrera S?
#31
I know this may sound like silly question. I bought a Carrera S 2006 for a guy with 38,000 miles and it seems he never raised the RPM beyond 4000 RPM!
I have been told by porsche dealer service department that porsche need to be pushed between 5000 to 7000 RPM (right before redline) to run well. Any thoughts on that?
It is my first time owning a Carrera, any general recommendations?
I have been told by porsche dealer service department that porsche need to be pushed between 5000 to 7000 RPM (right before redline) to run well. Any thoughts on that?
It is my first time owning a Carrera, any general recommendations?
#33
Rennlist Member
Your friend is missing out.
It's really a matter of situational relevance but the real power band kicks in above 4K and if you shift just before redline, you'll land right in the power band if the next gear. That tells me the engineers designed it to rev that high for max Power and torque.
Its worse tonlug yhe engine than rev it for sure.
It's really a matter of situational relevance but the real power band kicks in above 4K and if you shift just before redline, you'll land right in the power band if the next gear. That tells me the engineers designed it to rev that high for max Power and torque.
Its worse tonlug yhe engine than rev it for sure.
#34
Three Wheelin'
Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: Swedish expat in Latvia
Posts: 1,575
Likes: 0
Received 47 Likes
on
33 Posts
I also recommend a driving instructor. Doesn't have to be Porsche though.
My first time with instructor we spent 30 minutes just to practice steering wheel handling and hands positioning. Second 30 minutes was on a cone track and the whole time in third gear. Just to learn one thing at a time.
But for everyday driving which Hartech also mention I agree with previous comments. Work the engine using the whole rev range every time you drive. Of cause after engine is warm and especially oil temp is up to normal. Avoid high loads on tall gears. Hartechs theory is that cylinder 6 which is most prone to scoring has worse cooling than other cylinders and with full throttle on tall gears the side pressure on the piston becomes so high that the oil film will not manage to keep metal from metal. Also temp in this cylinder might reach critical temps even before thermostat opens since thermostat is placed later in the coolant flow. They actually recommend a cooler thermostat than std to reduce this problem.
With my background as mechanical engineer this is to me the most likely explanation and best advice how to keep engine healthy.
My first time with instructor we spent 30 minutes just to practice steering wheel handling and hands positioning. Second 30 minutes was on a cone track and the whole time in third gear. Just to learn one thing at a time.
But for everyday driving which Hartech also mention I agree with previous comments. Work the engine using the whole rev range every time you drive. Of cause after engine is warm and especially oil temp is up to normal. Avoid high loads on tall gears. Hartechs theory is that cylinder 6 which is most prone to scoring has worse cooling than other cylinders and with full throttle on tall gears the side pressure on the piston becomes so high that the oil film will not manage to keep metal from metal. Also temp in this cylinder might reach critical temps even before thermostat opens since thermostat is placed later in the coolant flow. They actually recommend a cooler thermostat than std to reduce this problem.
With my background as mechanical engineer this is to me the most likely explanation and best advice how to keep engine healthy.
#35
Rennlist Member
I believe an engine should be redlined using WOT, when it's fully warmed up, occasionally for good health, escpecially for a sports/performance car.
Engine internals, such as piston rods and rod bolts, stretch when pushed to redline, which allows the rings to squeeze a hair past their normal stopping point, which prevents a ring groove from forming over time during the stroke length, which can prevent the rings from being slightly bent due to a small buildup of deposits in that area.
And small particles that are stuck inside oil passages in the engine can be dislodged back into the oil stream with redline due to physics, which means that the filter can trap them.
WOT is good because airflow is at a maximum, and heat is built up to the maximum on the valves, pistons, heads, etc., which enables a burn off of carbon deposits a tad better than when not really pushed. Big airflow also helps push water and debris out of the exhaust system, which can extend the life of the exhaust system.
Engine internals, such as piston rods and rod bolts, stretch when pushed to redline, which allows the rings to squeeze a hair past their normal stopping point, which prevents a ring groove from forming over time during the stroke length, which can prevent the rings from being slightly bent due to a small buildup of deposits in that area.
And small particles that are stuck inside oil passages in the engine can be dislodged back into the oil stream with redline due to physics, which means that the filter can trap them.
WOT is good because airflow is at a maximum, and heat is built up to the maximum on the valves, pistons, heads, etc., which enables a burn off of carbon deposits a tad better than when not really pushed. Big airflow also helps push water and debris out of the exhaust system, which can extend the life of the exhaust system.
#36
Three Wheelin'
Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: Swedish expat in Latvia
Posts: 1,575
Likes: 0
Received 47 Likes
on
33 Posts
P.s
Here is the link to the Hartech page. It's a long but interesting document touching driving and also IMS and bore scoring issues.
http://hartech.org/images/downloads/...0(interim).pdf
Here is the link to the Hartech page. It's a long but interesting document touching driving and also IMS and bore scoring issues.
http://hartech.org/images/downloads/...0(interim).pdf
#37
P.s
Here is the link to the Hartech page. It's a long but interesting document touching driving and also IMS and bore scoring issues.
http://hartech.org/images/downloads/...0(interim).pdf
Here is the link to the Hartech page. It's a long but interesting document touching driving and also IMS and bore scoring issues.
http://hartech.org/images/downloads/...0(interim).pdf
#39
Rennlist Member
I keep mine 3k rpm until the oil temp moves from 150 degrees. Then around 5k shifts for most of my commute... However time before the garage I shift at redline at least 3-4 times......
The car begs for it, just listen to it next time
Enjoy in good health.
The car begs for it, just listen to it next time
Enjoy in good health.
#40
Thank u 4 d link
It's here: http://www.hartech.org/images/downlo...rs%20Guide.pdf
Introduction reads more like a manual to a sect than an indy shop. On to the technical part...
Introduction reads more like a manual to a sect than an indy shop. On to the technical part...
#41
You'll want to read this document (also long, skip to page 40ff for the conclusions): http://www.hartech.org/images/downlo...0(interim).pdf
It seems they split up the original buying guide and made a specifically technical document.
It seems they split up the original buying guide and made a specifically technical document.
#43
Other article
You'll want to read this document (also long, skip to page 40ff for the conclusions): http://www.hartech.org/images/downlo...0(interim).pdf
It seems they split up the original buying guide and made a specifically technical document.
It seems they split up the original buying guide and made a specifically technical document.
i read that one already , very technical.
#44
#45
Three Wheelin'
Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: Swedish expat in Latvia
Posts: 1,575
Likes: 0
Received 47 Likes
on
33 Posts
Originally Posted by mikeson
Thank you for a good info.
I have a question about your comment.
What is a 'tail gears'? I am sorry about this but I am kind of new this.
Thank you.
I have a question about your comment.
What is a 'tail gears'? I am sorry about this but I am kind of new this.
Thank you.
What I mean is using a lot of throttle in 4:th, 5:th or 6:th gear from slow speeds.
It's mentioned in the article that due to the much larger torque of the engine Hartech thinks that people also use this instead if shifting down. If you want to accelerate it's better to shift to an appropriate gear before accelerating. For example, don't accelerate from 1.000 rpm but rather shift down one or two gears and start from 2.000 or 2500 rpm. Then engine has higher speed, higher oil pressure and pressure on cylinder walls is smaller.