Keyed + chips = repaint questions
#17
1) Find out who the high end paint shop is in Houston - I doubt it is Service King. Call someone like Vive Auto Finishing and Detailing for recommendations.
http://www.vive-houston.com
Here's the Porsche approved collision center in Houston - https://www.porschecollisioncenter.c...x=0&submit.y=0
2) you can safely put a clear bra over a resprayed area - you just have to make sure the paint has cured sometimes up to 30 days - the paint shop will know.
http://www.vive-houston.com
Here's the Porsche approved collision center in Houston - https://www.porschecollisioncenter.c...x=0&submit.y=0
2) you can safely put a clear bra over a resprayed area - you just have to make sure the paint has cured sometimes up to 30 days - the paint shop will know.
#18
Exactly... I view it like door dings, you try hard to avoid getting in a position where someone will ding you, but staying 100% vigilant 100% of the time is too much mental effort/stress for me. There's always a chance someone will ding you. There's always a chance someone will decide that your car represents something he doesn't agree with. I've taken the same level of care of all my previous cars (including a Toyota Celica), but I try to balance the risk of getting the car damaged against the irritation of constantly worrying about it.
#19
Chris,
If your car is non metallic, it will be much easier to match than metallic (metallic is tough in my opinion). . Here in California, you are allowed to take your car for repair/re-paint to a shop of your choice. If you have that option in TX, I'd get a second estimate and also see if you can find a shop that specialzes in doing Porsche's. You might ask your local dealer for a recommendation too. I have an 08C2S with the clear bra and it really saves the day if you do any highway driving at all. I also have the clear bra material on blinkers and headlights too. There is a very reputable Porsche shop here in CA and I recently asked them about a re-paint and was quoted $12K+. Bumpers off, windows out, new seals, stickers, etc. I was just curious coming from the 356 world (where everything seems to cost a lot) and $12K seems fairly reasonable. I am extremely picky, so to me, the factory paint job is hard to beat unless of course the shop is doing a bare metal re-paint. Good luck...
Tony
If your car is non metallic, it will be much easier to match than metallic (metallic is tough in my opinion). . Here in California, you are allowed to take your car for repair/re-paint to a shop of your choice. If you have that option in TX, I'd get a second estimate and also see if you can find a shop that specialzes in doing Porsche's. You might ask your local dealer for a recommendation too. I have an 08C2S with the clear bra and it really saves the day if you do any highway driving at all. I also have the clear bra material on blinkers and headlights too. There is a very reputable Porsche shop here in CA and I recently asked them about a re-paint and was quoted $12K+. Bumpers off, windows out, new seals, stickers, etc. I was just curious coming from the 356 world (where everything seems to cost a lot) and $12K seems fairly reasonable. I am extremely picky, so to me, the factory paint job is hard to beat unless of course the shop is doing a bare metal re-paint. Good luck...
Tony
#20
$1800 doesn't sound too out of line and guards red should be an easier match than metallic. Be sure to ask many questions though, like the type of paint they're using, finishing techniques and warranty coverage.
#21
Sorry to hear of that. This happened to me, as well, about two days out of Zuffenhausen. With a solid paint you are ahead of the game. Solids are much easier to match. However, red is a color with a reputation for accelerated fading. If you have kept its exposure to the sun to a minimum (garaged mostly and covered during the heat of the day) it may not be too bad.
The process used for my driver's door (very limited, thankfully) was for them to wet sand the scratch area and adjacent inches, and then spray into the keyed area a filler. That will bring it up to the level of the other adjoining paint. Then they sanded again, sprayed on the color (a perfect match) and ultimately, reshot the entire door with a clear coat, going around the edges. They will have to replace the gasket material on the door.
The key is--there are shops out there that are very competent. It can be fixed--so don't sweat it!
The process used for my driver's door (very limited, thankfully) was for them to wet sand the scratch area and adjacent inches, and then spray into the keyed area a filler. That will bring it up to the level of the other adjoining paint. Then they sanded again, sprayed on the color (a perfect match) and ultimately, reshot the entire door with a clear coat, going around the edges. They will have to replace the gasket material on the door.
The key is--there are shops out there that are very competent. It can be fixed--so don't sweat it!
#23
Hah! Way to rub it in. Got a quote from the Porsche collision center. Was a few hundred higher, but I'll likely go with them. Going to get the rest of the chips/scratches repainted as well. Then clear bra. So, roughly $2k for the keyed part. Another $2k to get the rest of the car up to snuff. And however much the clear bra is gonna cost. Good thing the mechanical/performance upgrades are self-limiting on this car.
#24
Hah! Way to rub it in. Got a quote from the Porsche collision center. Was a few hundred higher, but I'll likely go with them. Going to get the rest of the chips/scratches repainted as well. Then clear bra. So, roughly $2k for the keyed part. Another $2k to get the rest of the car up to snuff. And however much the clear bra is gonna cost. Good thing the mechanical/performance upgrades are self-limiting on this car.
#25
Hah! Way to rub it in. Got a quote from the Porsche collision center. Was a few hundred higher, but I'll likely go with them. Going to get the rest of the chips/scratches repainted as well. Then clear bra. So, roughly $2k for the keyed part. Another $2k to get the rest of the car up to snuff. And however much the clear bra is gonna cost. Good thing the mechanical/performance upgrades are self-limiting on this car.
#27
Maybe your Porsche collision center is a good shop. Let's hope so. The Porsche collision center in my home town is referred to as such only because the Porsche dealership recommends it. And the only reason they recommend it is because it's owned by the same dude who owns the dealership. I trusted their recommendation once and I'll never go back. I told the service manager as much and he said he understood.
https://www.porschecollisioncenter.c...che/index.html
#28
If you plan to clear bra def make sure the body shop uses a quality primer, proper prep is key and of course good quality paint.
Cheaper shops will lack in these areas and this is when the clear bra peels upon removal years down the road. Like some stated make sure you allow the paint to cure, PIA cause at the same time you want to drive the car and not chip it up too.
Cheaper shops will lack in these areas and this is when the clear bra peels upon removal years down the road. Like some stated make sure you allow the paint to cure, PIA cause at the same time you want to drive the car and not chip it up too.
#29
I thought there was some sort of qualification process to go through to be certified as a Porsche Approved Collision Center...maybe your guys just decided to use the name??
https://www.porschecollisioncenter.c...che/index.html
https://www.porschecollisioncenter.c...che/index.html
#30
Hmmm... looks like my one and only local p-dealer in Austin is also the only local Porsche Approved Collision Center here - Roger Beasley Porsche. Has anyone ever used them? Just asking JIC I ever need to use them.