mdrums

The specs I'm quoting are just my experience with these cars and a rule of thumb...starting point with basic alignment specs.

Your alignment shop should be very familiar with Porsche's and track set ups.... but for now since you don't have adjustable lower control arms tell them to get the max amount of camber in front with zero toe. This will be right at -1 with a non-PASM car. Then for the rear go -1.5...no more for now until you get adjustable front lower control arms.

If you are serious you could have RSS adjustable lower control arms next day air to you...do instal and alignment on Wednesday or Thursday and track it Saturday. So if you do that then start with these specs for Michelin Sport Cups

FRONT
-2.5 Camber Per Side
ZERO Toe
Caster as much as possible with out rubbing front inner fender liner

REAR
-2 Camber Per Side
2mm Toe IN per side...or if your alignment shop reads toe in degrees go with .16 degrees toe IN per side

Start with that and check tire wear on the outside. Best to use a pyrometer to check tires to make sure temps are pretty even across tread.

7500rpm

mdrums, OP has a Gen. 1 C2S, like mine. My experience between Gen 1 and Gen 2 is that the former tends to oversteer whereas the latter understeer. This is understandable design as an under steering car is deemed safer. Are your alignment suggestions for a Gen 2 car? I run -1.5 deg front and -2.3 rears with very even temperature across the tread. Factory sports suspension without PASM, with H&R anti roll bars with rears set to minimum stiffness.
CHBERNAT, all these are probably overwhelming to you. Since you are tracking on Weds, the best you could do with the available time is to install the MPSCs and get the max negative camber you can get from factory parts.
On the track, don't go maximum on your first run! R spec tires need to be heat cycled several times to reach their best. They also need to be heated up half a dozen turns, at least, to reach decent grip. I would say learning to drive properly in the track is probably more useful now than throwing in go-faster parts or getting super technical. Let us know how it goes.

chbernat

Ok. Ordered pads and getting the camber done after mounting tires, also upgrading brake fluid.

Now question. These will only be track tires. When I put my 18's back on I assume the camber etc will still be ok? Also should I only used the pagid pads on the track?

Alan C.

I run the same setup as Mike. I'm using GT3 LCAs in front.

This setup can be driven on the street without destroying your tires.

A lot of track pads tend to be noisy on the street. Pads deposit a layer of material on your rotors by design. Going back and forth between street pads may not be optimal but it is done by some people. I'd ask the pad supplier for their recommendation on your choice of pads.

When I was in the 8 plus track event a year range I had a set of rotors for the track and a set for the street with matching pads. Once you've switched pads and rotors a couple of times it gets to be pretty easy. If you do this I would replace the caliper bolts with studs and nuts.

7500rpm

Just like the original setting is not ideal for track use, your optimized for track setting will not be perfect for regular road use. -1.5 or more negative camber is going to cost you uneven tire wear on the road and straight line stability will suffer a little. In theory, braking will suffer a little as well, but completely unnoticeable to me.
I don't bother swapping out my Pagid RS29 and can tolerate the little squealing. I also do not bother with the hype for having to pair your disc and pads. Good job ordering the upgraded pads and brake fluids. Make sure all fluid level is at max but not overfilled and have fun!

mdrums

7500rpm....1 or .2 997S both are the same tub and suspension. Only difference is the Direct Fuel Injection. I've owned a 2006 2007 and 2009 C2S and all handled the same to me.

I agree with you on the pairing of rotors and pads...I used to get a little worried about that years ago with the different street or track pads but after a few threshold braking stops works in the rotor with the new pad material. I will only swap back to street pads if I'm not going to do a track event for 3 or more months.

chbernat

I only ordered the front pads. This made sense to me since I just got new oem pads last year. I assume that's ok? Since most breaking is done in the front?
Also going to flush my brake lines myself...any tips?

mdrums

I use a slightly grippy pad in the rear to even out brake bias some so the car stays flatter under threshold braking. Lately I've been using Pagid yellow front and black in the rear.

Using a race pad that can take high heat of braking on the track and stock,pads that can't take the heat of braking on the track as long as race pads can might not work well. However I don't know your driving so you might be ok.

Also flush your stock fluid. It can't take the braking heat of tracking. Moltul RBF660 is good and easy to find. I used it for years. I've been using for the last 2 years Prospeed 683...excellent stuff.

chbernat

I will purchase the rears also....maybe I'll try the black like your set up.

Flushing...is it hard? Easy? Is there a DIY thread with pics?

mdrums

Flushing is isn't hard. You either need some to pump,the brake pedal or a Motive pressure bleeder. You will,go,through 2 bottles of fluid for flush. I'm on my phone now...too hard to type it all out now...will,try tomorrow