Advice needed for MAF cleaning
03-16-2013, 04:12 PM
#16
Drifting
It is critical to treat the MAF's like any static sensitive device... it requires proper handling especially if you remove it from it's housing. For example, use an anti-static strap... similar to how you would handled a CPU or internal electronic components. Well this is certainly not as complex of a device but you get the idea. Just be careful and take your time.
For the most part you shouldn't even have to remove the actual MAF sensor from it's housing unit to clean it. Plus most don't have the security torx bits to do so. Safest to leave it in the housing unit and spray from MAF sensor end towards the screen behind it. That way any debris stuck on the screen will not fall onto and get caught on the sensitive MAF sensor wires. Here's a pic of my stock air box and the proper way to spray the cleaner if you don't remove the MAF from it's housing... Of course, make sure that you have the air filter already removed before doing so. Note that my MAF sensor is no longer on my stock air box as I've installed it on my EVOM air box.
So obviously I've serviced and even removed and re-installed my MAF w/o ill affect. In fact, I've yet to encounter an issue after cleaning a multitude of MAF's across various car brands over the years but it would be interesting and insightful to hear from someone who has... perhaps we could learn something from their incident. For the most part I've noticed that most mechs don't tend to have an anti-static strap laying around in their shops so I wonder if this is a scenario where they might have botched a MAF or two due to improper handling and therefore hold an adversion towards handling/cleaning them... or they simply simply assume that most owners don't know how to handle sensitive electronic parts and recommend to us that it's safer to just leave it alone for them to service/replace. Of course, I may be missing something here not obvious to me... I'm always open to learning something new though.
For the most part you shouldn't even have to remove the actual MAF sensor from it's housing unit to clean it. Plus most don't have the security torx bits to do so. Safest to leave it in the housing unit and spray from MAF sensor end towards the screen behind it. That way any debris stuck on the screen will not fall onto and get caught on the sensitive MAF sensor wires. Here's a pic of my stock air box and the proper way to spray the cleaner if you don't remove the MAF from it's housing... Of course, make sure that you have the air filter already removed before doing so. Note that my MAF sensor is no longer on my stock air box as I've installed it on my EVOM air box.
So obviously I've serviced and even removed and re-installed my MAF w/o ill affect. In fact, I've yet to encounter an issue after cleaning a multitude of MAF's across various car brands over the years but it would be interesting and insightful to hear from someone who has... perhaps we could learn something from their incident. For the most part I've noticed that most mechs don't tend to have an anti-static strap laying around in their shops so I wonder if this is a scenario where they might have botched a MAF or two due to improper handling and therefore hold an adversion towards handling/cleaning them... or they simply simply assume that most owners don't know how to handle sensitive electronic parts and recommend to us that it's safer to just leave it alone for them to service/replace. Of course, I may be missing something here not obvious to me... I'm always open to learning something new though.
03-16-2013, 10:40 PM
#17
Race Director
Ok, so you have removed and cleaned a number of MAFs with no ill effect.
Have you cleaned any with some positive effect?
Barring as I mentioned above some self-inflicted issue from an overoiled aftermarket air filter or a misinstalled stock filter there's no reason to clean the thing. While you have been ok cleaning these others may not be so lucky. Why handle something that doesn't need the handling?
I handle electronics at work all day long. Bare PCBAs, with wiring and test leads, power supply power leads and so on, and yet I avoid touching anything electronic on my car. There's too much at risk. Static discharge the MAF is bad enough. But static discharge into the wiring that leads to the DME and you'll wish you hadn't.
Besides the working surface of the MAF is not visible, it not an external surface of the MAF but is located inside the channel/tunnel that runs through the MAF. The working surface is one of the walls of this tunnel. A spray of cleaner from a distance away from the MAF is not likely to have much if any cleaner go through this channel/tunnel -- which has bends in it -- and actually wash the working surface. A surface that is clean to begin with.
Have you cleaned any with some positive effect?
Barring as I mentioned above some self-inflicted issue from an overoiled aftermarket air filter or a misinstalled stock filter there's no reason to clean the thing. While you have been ok cleaning these others may not be so lucky. Why handle something that doesn't need the handling?
I handle electronics at work all day long. Bare PCBAs, with wiring and test leads, power supply power leads and so on, and yet I avoid touching anything electronic on my car. There's too much at risk. Static discharge the MAF is bad enough. But static discharge into the wiring that leads to the DME and you'll wish you hadn't.
Besides the working surface of the MAF is not visible, it not an external surface of the MAF but is located inside the channel/tunnel that runs through the MAF. The working surface is one of the walls of this tunnel. A spray of cleaner from a distance away from the MAF is not likely to have much if any cleaner go through this channel/tunnel -- which has bends in it -- and actually wash the working surface. A surface that is clean to begin with.
03-17-2013, 03:26 AM
#18
Drifting
This is actually good advice for some... But after 14 yrs in the Marine Corps troubleshooting avionics equipment down to the component level and many more years working with notebooks to server systems (from PCBAs to PSUs) I just don't find a MAF intimidating. I've also pulled the ECU from my prior M3 to ship it off for reprogramming w/o issue to support a super charger. But, of course, this all requires proper anti-static handling procedures... ie use of an anti-static strap with proper grounding. Each enthusiast needs to know their own weight class/skillset capability when dealing with their car. But let's get back on topic for the OP. Be careful handling the MAF and make sure you follow the safety guidance already provided if you choose to clean the MAF. And by all means... if you're uncomfortable performing this service then don't. GL and enjoy the ride.
03-17-2013, 10:54 PM
#19
I just cleaned my MAF and several others in a few other cars in which i have used a KN air filter mainly due to the filter oil getting on the MAF element wire after i respray it and have never noticed a difference. As some of you have electronic backgrounds, the sensor wire is essentially a thermistor. You just have to be careful not to damage it as its a very thin wire, if it breaks, youll have an open and it will probably rail the instrumentation amp inside the sensor. Frankly i dont see the MAF wire getting dirty as you have air filter and usually a MAF screen or passage which both block debris. The MAF cleaner is essentially like electronic contact cleaner, so its safe for the MAF module and PCB as it evaporates.
06-20-2013, 12:09 PM
#20
Sporadic Hesitation Caused by MAF?
I acquired an 06 C2S one owner car about 3 months ago. 6k miles on the ODO. One morning, I noticed hesitation in any gear above 3k or so rpms. The car had been sitting for a while prior to my ownership, so we attributed it to bad gas. The engine was still cold when this happened.
About 2500 miles later, just last week, this time at interstate speeds, the problem recurred. Hesitation above 3k, like that old carbureted-car feeling when you are wanting to accelerate, but there's a spot in the throttle linkage that slows you down. I pulled off, topped the tank up, and the hesitation disappeared.
Neither time did the hesitation throw a CEL.
Just recently, I noticed a bit of a "incomplete" start. If I don't hold the key in the start position about .5 seconds after the engine starts, the car starts with a lower idle and requires a stab at the gas to get it right. I initially attributed that to a failing battery and put a battery tender on it last night. Same thing happened this morning. Now I'm wondering if the two are connected.
I conveyed the above history to a well known independent, who's initial reaction, without seeing the car, was the MAF.
I'm inclined to clean the MAFs as a prophylactic measure. The car was from AZ, and in a very dusty environment. Of course, it only had 6k miles on it when I got it, so that needs to be taken into account as well. I doubt the air filters have been changed.
If I have an MAF that's on the way out, I suppose cleaning both of them would cause no harm all other things equal. Or are we barking up the wrong tree. Thoughts?
About 2500 miles later, just last week, this time at interstate speeds, the problem recurred. Hesitation above 3k, like that old carbureted-car feeling when you are wanting to accelerate, but there's a spot in the throttle linkage that slows you down. I pulled off, topped the tank up, and the hesitation disappeared.
Neither time did the hesitation throw a CEL.
Just recently, I noticed a bit of a "incomplete" start. If I don't hold the key in the start position about .5 seconds after the engine starts, the car starts with a lower idle and requires a stab at the gas to get it right. I initially attributed that to a failing battery and put a battery tender on it last night. Same thing happened this morning. Now I'm wondering if the two are connected.
I conveyed the above history to a well known independent, who's initial reaction, without seeing the car, was the MAF.
I'm inclined to clean the MAFs as a prophylactic measure. The car was from AZ, and in a very dusty environment. Of course, it only had 6k miles on it when I got it, so that needs to be taken into account as well. I doubt the air filters have been changed.
If I have an MAF that's on the way out, I suppose cleaning both of them would cause no harm all other things equal. Or are we barking up the wrong tree. Thoughts?
06-23-2013, 09:09 PM
#21
Rennlist Member
I acquired an 06 C2S one owner car about 3 months ago. 6k miles on the ODO. One morning, I noticed hesitation in any gear above 3k or so rpms. The car had been sitting for a while prior to my ownership, so we attributed it to bad gas. The engine was still cold when this happened.
About 2500 miles later, just last week, this time at interstate speeds, the problem recurred. Hesitation above 3k, like that old carbureted-car feeling when you are wanting to accelerate, but there's a spot in the throttle linkage that slows you down. I pulled off, topped the tank up, and the hesitation disappeared.
Neither time did the hesitation throw a CEL.
Just recently, I noticed a bit of a "incomplete" start. If I don't hold the key in the start position about .5 seconds after the engine starts, the car starts with a lower idle and requires a stab at the gas to get it right. I initially attributed that to a failing battery and put a battery tender on it last night. Same thing happened this morning. Now I'm wondering if the two are connected.
I conveyed the above history to a well known independent, who's initial reaction, without seeing the car, was the MAF.
I'm inclined to clean the MAFs as a prophylactic measure. The car was from AZ, and in a very dusty environment. Of course, it only had 6k miles on it when I got it, so that needs to be taken into account as well. I doubt the air filters have been changed.
If I have an MAF that's on the way out, I suppose cleaning both of them would cause no harm all other things equal. Or are we barking up the wrong tree. Thoughts?
About 2500 miles later, just last week, this time at interstate speeds, the problem recurred. Hesitation above 3k, like that old carbureted-car feeling when you are wanting to accelerate, but there's a spot in the throttle linkage that slows you down. I pulled off, topped the tank up, and the hesitation disappeared.
Neither time did the hesitation throw a CEL.
Just recently, I noticed a bit of a "incomplete" start. If I don't hold the key in the start position about .5 seconds after the engine starts, the car starts with a lower idle and requires a stab at the gas to get it right. I initially attributed that to a failing battery and put a battery tender on it last night. Same thing happened this morning. Now I'm wondering if the two are connected.
I conveyed the above history to a well known independent, who's initial reaction, without seeing the car, was the MAF.
I'm inclined to clean the MAFs as a prophylactic measure. The car was from AZ, and in a very dusty environment. Of course, it only had 6k miles on it when I got it, so that needs to be taken into account as well. I doubt the air filters have been changed.
If I have an MAF that's on the way out, I suppose cleaning both of them would cause no harm all other things equal. Or are we barking up the wrong tree. Thoughts?
06-17-2019, 08:24 AM
#22
I'm sorry I'm reviving an old post, but it seems more and more relevant to me especially as our cars are added with more miles.
Is it recommended to clean the MAF or not?
If so - if a product is recommended to clean?
The main question:
Can MAF cleaning eliminate the hesitation that there is at the beginning of driving between 1000-3000RPM? A jump of the RPM feels that the car stops itself and there is a slight fall of the RPM and after that the RPM is normal.
I emphasize that in N mode there is no hesitation and didnt throw a CEL.
Thanks
Is it recommended to clean the MAF or not?
If so - if a product is recommended to clean?
The main question:
Can MAF cleaning eliminate the hesitation that there is at the beginning of driving between 1000-3000RPM? A jump of the RPM feels that the car stops itself and there is a slight fall of the RPM and after that the RPM is normal.
I emphasize that in N mode there is no hesitation and didnt throw a CEL.
Thanks
06-17-2019, 10:27 AM
#23
RL Community Team
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
2009 C2S 134K miles
I do. Do I know it is a good thing? No.
I change my air filters about twice a year as I take my car into nature reserves on dirt roads and such to do nature and bird photography. As you trundle along in our cars, the engine hatch just sucks in massive quantities of dust. I don;t think the MAF is affected, but I end up opening up the box to change the filters... so when I am in there, I pull the MAF and shoot it with whatever can of MAF cleaner I grabbed at the Autozone. I spray the crap out of it, shake it hard and am done with it. I must have sprayed it down... 10 times now and no check engine light. So while I am not sure I did any good, I definitely have not hurt anything.
Years ago with my 2000 Boxster S, the MAFs were fouling. Porsche, or the maker, redesigned the MAF and IIRC, put a little bump before the sensor. This bump made the air flow turn and therefore throwing off higher-mass particulates. Porsche also required a software update to go with this new part... don't know why. So..... I assume... these new MAFs have taken in all the mistakes of the past. But I clean it anyway.
I know that I can get a lumpy idle ... and while I am in there, I again, spray the crap out of the throttle body using the same spray, and jam a rag in there. Make sure I do the rim of the butterfly. Seems to help. Again, no check engine lights.
Peace
Bruce in Philly
I do. Do I know it is a good thing? No.
I change my air filters about twice a year as I take my car into nature reserves on dirt roads and such to do nature and bird photography. As you trundle along in our cars, the engine hatch just sucks in massive quantities of dust. I don;t think the MAF is affected, but I end up opening up the box to change the filters... so when I am in there, I pull the MAF and shoot it with whatever can of MAF cleaner I grabbed at the Autozone. I spray the crap out of it, shake it hard and am done with it. I must have sprayed it down... 10 times now and no check engine light. So while I am not sure I did any good, I definitely have not hurt anything.
Years ago with my 2000 Boxster S, the MAFs were fouling. Porsche, or the maker, redesigned the MAF and IIRC, put a little bump before the sensor. This bump made the air flow turn and therefore throwing off higher-mass particulates. Porsche also required a software update to go with this new part... don't know why. So..... I assume... these new MAFs have taken in all the mistakes of the past. But I clean it anyway.
I know that I can get a lumpy idle ... and while I am in there, I again, spray the crap out of the throttle body using the same spray, and jam a rag in there. Make sure I do the rim of the butterfly. Seems to help. Again, no check engine lights.
Peace
Bruce in Philly
06-17-2019, 12:42 PM
#24
I do as well. It's cheap and easy to do, especially if you're changing out your air filter. As others have mentioned, it is probably not an absolute requirement if you use a standard paper filter (vs. a reusable oil filter) and replace it frequently, but it doesn't hurt to spray down the MAF sensor real quick while you're in there.
06-18-2019, 07:01 PM
#25
Burning Brakes
I was sure that my MAF was effecting my idle bouncing when it was at idle. Cleaned it, replaced it, resprayed it and all of those did nothing. The whole problem was the throttle body. Even with no code being thrown, the TB was bad. Once it was replaced my idle is rock solid steady around 800 rpms.
