Manifold

I just picked up an '06 997.1 C2S coupe with about 13K miles. The car is stock and has never been tracked. I plan to drive it on both road and track (advanced level) and would appreciate suggestions on what needs to be done to get the car ready for the track. Some things I'm thinking:

- R888 tires?
- Racing brake fluid (ProSpeed RS683?)
- Better engine oil (Millers oil from UK?)
- Need an oil pan extension?
- What brake pads do you guys use? (I use Performance Friction 08/06 on a Cayman.)
- Are the stock rotors OK? Anyone using floating or slotted rotors?
- Improved cooling needed for the brakes?
- What alignment settings are you guys using?
- What else?

Thanks.

Gibbo

Tyres - R888 are a bit soft for a 911 and the oil pan extension is recommended. Michelin cups, Pirelli Corsa, Yokohama AD08's are good but with the oil pan you could run slicks on a spare set of wheels.
Brake fluid - stock is fine.
Engine oil - again stock mobil 1 0-40W is fine
Pads - Pagid RS29's
Rotors - stock is fine
Cooling - fit GT3 front ducts and turbo rear ducts for better cooling.
Alignment - you want -2.3 negative front camber, neutral front toe or 0.01 toe in per each side front and around 8.5-9 caster front. Rear should be -1.8 rear camber and about 30 minutes toe in on rear axle. To get front camber you'll need 996 or 997 GT3 front arms.
What else - roll bars, again GT3 front and rear so you cn adjust.

Luxter

And Millers NT gear lube too. But that's me.....
That's my next engine oil fill anyway.
=L=

Edit:
3-rd radiator + low temp T-stat a must.
See Hartech guide 5 for details.

Manifold

Anyone else? Nobody else tracking?

TJ Elliott

I'll add a couple of comments predecated on the fact that you are an advanced driver as I wouldn't recommend r-compound tires for example to a novice. If you are at the level you can use and appreciate an r-comp tire you need to invest in your safety. I would recommend at minimum a bolt in roll bar, track seats, 6 point harness and Hans device.

Regarding brakes, I've had good results,with the Pagid RS-29 but I'm going to try the PFC 08 this summer. I would upgrade the brake fluid (Motul, Prospeed or Endless) before I added brake ducting. If you experience fade with the higher temp fluid then add the ducts. Stock rotors will suffice.

I ran stock Mobil 1 0W-40 for years; however, my wife began DEing last summer sharing my car so I added the Mantis sump extension and run either Motul or Liqui-Moly oil. This winter I'm adding the third radiator for further insurance against high temps.

I feel the alignment advice you've been given is a good place to start; however, you will not get there without installing front adjustable lower control arms and/or lowering the car with a spring change. If you're not able to go there then dial in as much negative camber in the front as you can get with -0.5 less in the rear. This is where you'll want a good shop to guide you. This will determine what tires to run as r-comps require the negative camber with the corner speeds you'll be achieving and different r-comps require different camber. BTW I'd add the Pirelli Trofeo to the list of tires.

Have fun and play safe.

fskof

How many track events are you planning on doing a year?

Manifold

I plan to track three cars this year (for variety), but I'd estimate 15 days for the 997.

BTW, just ordered R888s for the car.

7500rpm

I also drive a 2006 C2S. Some of the points above depend on the track you go to. I go to two, one of them 1.6 mile long and the other over 3 miles. I don't get brakes overheating in the shorter track but the longer track takes me over 155mph before braking for a U-turn. I experience all the issues mentioned in the other posts like brake fluids, cracking drilled rotors and over heated pads. I have changed to DOT 5.1 racing brake fluid, which eliminated soft pedals, have ordered up Pagid RS29s and intend to switch to slotted discs this summer. I am also upgrading my fronts to GT3 6-pot calipers this month. There are many threads on tracking so do some research. However, one point I'd differ from Gibbo is the use of 0W-40 oil. I'd suggest something thicker like 5W-50 as I can see a real difference in oil pressure once everything is heated up. Oh, and do change your gearbox oil if you have not already done so. Despite Porsche recommending change at some zillion mile intervals, I could feel an immediate difference in shifting effort after changing the oil at 20k. Time, and not just mileage, ages oil, too.

Manifold

Thanks for the info. I drive at 7 tracks from Watkins Glen to VIR. Don't yet know what top speeds I'll hit, but I'm guessing 150ish.

cello

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