zanwar

Are you asking about tire wear on the street? I didn't notice any difference with my setup. If you're asking about the track, that's a longer story. When I started tracking proper, my tech configured the car with a "stock performance alignment", around 1.0/1.2. With this config I was burning up PS2s (blisters, visible cords). After installing GT3 LCAs, we shifted to around 1.5 front and 2.0 back if I remember correctly. The car was twitcher on the street but manageable. I ran this with Toyos for a season and those tires held up alright. Toyos are symmetrical so you can swap them left/right on the same axle to get some extra life out of them. When I switched to the GT3 last year it came with 1.5/1.5 and I left it alone, other than swapping the Pirelli Corsas for MPSS. So far I've done 600 track miles and the tires look just fine. The lesson I learned from all this is that alignment settings and tire choice are important, but managing tire pressures and learning to drive the car in a sensitive manner count for a whole lot more. If I was starting over again with a 4S, I would install the LCAs, have my tech give the car a hybrid street / track alignment, buy a stack of MPSS tires and just go have fun.

mdrums

Basic starting point for a 997 alignment to use R-Compound rubber on a road course at a advanced driving level is:

FRONT
-2.5 Camber per side
zero toe per side

REAR
-2 Camber per side
2mm Toe In per side

TJ Elliott

I have a 2007 C4S that I track 15 to 20 days a season in the advanced run group and I run Pirelli Trofeos. Last season I ran on H&R lowering springs with RSS LCA's on the front and RSS toe links on the rear. Lowering with springs increases the available negative camber by about -1 degree. By adding the RSS LCA's I was able to get up to -2.8 camber on the front without axle issues.

There aren't many shops with experience setting up C4S's for the track so I've had to do some experimenting at the expense of premature tire wear. What I have found is that the C4S gives more even tire wear (with Trofeos) running a square negative camber setting, meaning similar negative camber front and rear. When I ran a typical C2S/GT3 setup with half a degree less camber on the rear I found I was wearing the outer edge of the rears. I'm now set up with -2.4 camber front and rear with 3.0 mm of rear toe (zero in front).

As well, be vigilant with tire pressure and don't underestimate the impact that this has on handling and wear.