Is it safe to go through a car wash?
12-13-2012, 03:02 AM
#46
Poseur
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Here's what I do to minimise the impact to the paint. As a cabriolet owner, we are specifically told not to use a commercial car wash--too many high pressure hoses pushing in water where the top designers never imagined. These cab tops are great for normal rain, and even most wind-driven rain but a car wash is way below those specifications.
I hose mine off with an exterior garden hose, and then use a very soft brush and soapy water to quickly hit the spots where I know I will have true grime--everything aft of the door handles. Once that is done I hit it again with the garden hose. Then I toss two buckets of inside water (water softened) over the car. I follow that up with a common leaf blower and even my air hose (compressor driven). There's little water left after that but I use those special towels that are lint free.
I hose mine off with an exterior garden hose, and then use a very soft brush and soapy water to quickly hit the spots where I know I will have true grime--everything aft of the door handles. Once that is done I hit it again with the garden hose. Then I toss two buckets of inside water (water softened) over the car. I follow that up with a common leaf blower and even my air hose (compressor driven). There's little water left after that but I use those special towels that are lint free.
12-13-2012, 01:26 PM
#47
+1 on the rinseless wash.
I use the Griot's now sold over the couter at Advanced Auto. Sometimes I will use Optimum No Rinse in a 2 Gallon pesticide sprayer from Home Depot ($10).
After spraying down the car to loosen the dirt, I'll unscrew the cap of the sprayer to dunk a towel inside for a thorough wipe down. The height of the sprayer gives the debris more room to travel to the bottom so that I'm only working with clean water. I'll use a wheel face brush and the left over water in the sprayer to finish the wheels. 1 ounce of No Rinse solution for ever gallon of water, I use warm water during winter so as not to freeze my hands.
-100 on using microfiber towels on paint.
For anything but seasonal wax removal the pricklyness of those towels is total overkill for a well maintained surface. That's what janitorial companies use to clean floors.... Instead use a long nap detailing towel also sold by Griots (the green or blue towels). I picked up like 20 when Advanced Auto had a 33% email coupon.
For drying use a waffle weave towel but first mist a quick detail spray to further lubricate the paint rubbing. Avoid rubbing on dry paint whenever possible.
p.s.
To the OP, you can swirl a paint just as easily by hand as you can putting it through automatic wash.
As far as swirling, "Hand car wash" places offer no real advantage over drive-thru wash. If anything they're more likely to be using dirty wash mitts full of sediments from the previous cars.
I use the Griot's now sold over the couter at Advanced Auto. Sometimes I will use Optimum No Rinse in a 2 Gallon pesticide sprayer from Home Depot ($10).
After spraying down the car to loosen the dirt, I'll unscrew the cap of the sprayer to dunk a towel inside for a thorough wipe down. The height of the sprayer gives the debris more room to travel to the bottom so that I'm only working with clean water. I'll use a wheel face brush and the left over water in the sprayer to finish the wheels. 1 ounce of No Rinse solution for ever gallon of water, I use warm water during winter so as not to freeze my hands.
-100 on using microfiber towels on paint.
For anything but seasonal wax removal the pricklyness of those towels is total overkill for a well maintained surface. That's what janitorial companies use to clean floors.... Instead use a long nap detailing towel also sold by Griots (the green or blue towels). I picked up like 20 when Advanced Auto had a 33% email coupon.
For drying use a waffle weave towel but first mist a quick detail spray to further lubricate the paint rubbing. Avoid rubbing on dry paint whenever possible.
p.s.
To the OP, you can swirl a paint just as easily by hand as you can putting it through automatic wash.
As far as swirling, "Hand car wash" places offer no real advantage over drive-thru wash. If anything they're more likely to be using dirty wash mitts full of sediments from the previous cars.
12-13-2012, 01:29 PM
#48
Rennlist Member
Hi,
In my 996 and 986, the manual clearly stated that car washes should be avoided (due to water getting in the air intakes either on the tail of the 996 or the side scoop of the 986), however in my 997.1, there is no specific mention of car washes. It just states "if washing by hand...etc"...
In my 996 and 986, the manual clearly stated that car washes should be avoided (due to water getting in the air intakes either on the tail of the 996 or the side scoop of the 986), however in my 997.1, there is no specific mention of car washes. It just states "if washing by hand...etc"...
12-13-2012, 04:22 PM
#49
Rennlist Member
-100 on using microfiber towels on paint.
For anything but seasonal wax removal the pricklyness of those towels is total overkill for a well maintained surface. That's what janitorial companies use to clean floors.... Instead use a long nap detailing towel also sold by Griots (the green or blue towels). I picked up like 20 when Advanced Auto had a 33% email coupon.
For anything but seasonal wax removal the pricklyness of those towels is total overkill for a well maintained surface. That's what janitorial companies use to clean floors.... Instead use a long nap detailing towel also sold by Griots (the green or blue towels). I picked up like 20 when Advanced Auto had a 33% email coupon.
12-13-2012, 06:53 PM
#50
Have you tried the dealer?, many Porsche dealers have car washes in their facilities that they use to wash cars brought in for service, if you are on good terms with them, they will often wash your car if they are not too busy
12-13-2012, 08:04 PM
#52
12-13-2012, 09:39 PM
#53
Rennlist Member
I never let the dealer wash - in fact I have the service advisor specifically write DO NOT WASH on the service order...and also leave a note in big type on the dash. Dealers think they are offering a service when they wash but they use dirty wash rags, etc. Next time you visit the dealer go watch how they wash the cars. I guess you can tell how I feel about dealer washes.
12-13-2012, 10:47 PM
#54
12-13-2012, 11:04 PM
#55
Official Rennlist Snake Slayer
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
12-13-2012, 11:42 PM
#56
Nordschleife Master
Good thread.
Totally confused, but good thread.
I'll keep paying the 400 for correction and simple hose down in between.....damn
Totally confused, but good thread.
I'll keep paying the 400 for correction and simple hose down in between.....damn
12-14-2012, 01:59 AM
#58
Burning Brakes
Join Date: Aug 2006
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This is a debate that never ends. However, it's a debate always worth having as it rekindles our thinking about how we wash (and keep clean) our beloved cars.
12-14-2012, 02:44 AM
#59
12-14-2012, 11:52 AM
#60
you know that. I know that. But most car owners think of the term 'microfber towel' as being the standard detailing towel with one prickly side and one short loop side. The Griots green and blue is a high-loft loop type (sold by many other companies) which is far more appropriate for an enthusiast owned car, particularly an expensive one, that rarely gets very dirty.
The standard towels are cheap ($1-3) wheras a the long nap towels are usually $4 and up. It's better to spend your detailing budget on quality towels than 20 kinds of waxes in over-priced 10 step kits.
The standard towels are cheap ($1-3) wheras a the long nap towels are usually $4 and up. It's better to spend your detailing budget on quality towels than 20 kinds of waxes in over-priced 10 step kits.