Nuetral With Broken Shift Cable?
#1
Intermediate
Thread Starter
Nuetral With Broken Shift Cable?
Rarely do I post questions, however after several hours of trolling for answers to finish up a DIY article I'm working on I decided to throw in the towel.
I fell victim to a snapped shift cable last week and am now in the process of replacing/documenting the process. While I've seen a number of posts regarding cup cable swaps, I haven't seen a soup-to-nuts article on the replacement of the stock cables (sticking with plastic, not looking to increase cabin noise on my commuter.)
Everything is prepped and the cables removed, however I'm not exactly sure what position the transmission selector levers (1 and 2 below) should be in to be considered neutral (cable snapped while in 3rd.) Once in neutral I'm gtg in using the shift alignment tool and/or counting threads on the shift linkages.. just not familiar with this gearbox.
Any advice/info is greatly appreciated!
I fell victim to a snapped shift cable last week and am now in the process of replacing/documenting the process. While I've seen a number of posts regarding cup cable swaps, I haven't seen a soup-to-nuts article on the replacement of the stock cables (sticking with plastic, not looking to increase cabin noise on my commuter.)
Everything is prepped and the cables removed, however I'm not exactly sure what position the transmission selector levers (1 and 2 below) should be in to be considered neutral (cable snapped while in 3rd.) Once in neutral I'm gtg in using the shift alignment tool and/or counting threads on the shift linkages.. just not familiar with this gearbox.
Any advice/info is greatly appreciated!
#2
Rennlist Member
i cant remember which is which but hope this helps: one lever moves "between the gates" - i.e. when you move the shifter left to right when in neutral - and is spring loaded, correct? so, (if the trans is out of gear?) this one should naturally rest/be forced to the middle position, with you being able to nudge it back and forth against the springs. the other lever has 3 distinct positions, the middle being N, and either toward front of car or back of car being in one of the gears.
or simply hook the cables up the way you think it should be and before you put everything back together, just run thru the gears with the car off to make sure everything "feels" right.
i'm pretty sure it's more straightforward/easy than it sounds. hell, i changed mine and while cables were disconnected, also played around with the lever positions yet had no problem hooking everything back up correctly...and I'M an idiot. i'm sure you can do it.
or simply hook the cables up the way you think it should be and before you put everything back together, just run thru the gears with the car off to make sure everything "feels" right.
i'm pretty sure it's more straightforward/easy than it sounds. hell, i changed mine and while cables were disconnected, also played around with the lever positions yet had no problem hooking everything back up correctly...and I'M an idiot. i'm sure you can do it.
#3
I agree that I think it's the center position for both levers. But the easy way to test is just try spinning the rear wheels. If it's in gear, you'll be working against the engine. If you're in neutral, things will spin
#4
Intermediate
Thread Starter
After having monkeyed around with the levers over the weekend I did notice the rear wheels spin freely, so I'm likely in the clear. I did note that selector lever #1 clicks into place from left to right (3 positions) quick easily, while lever #2 appears locked in place and a selection cannot be made (regardless of what position #1 is in.)
I suppose I'll know more when I install the cables, however I don't anticipate the linkage changing the lack of mobility with lever #2.
Last edited by Insomnic; 11-14-2012 at 09:21 PM.
#6
Intermediate
Thread Starter