Advice on VERY high mileage 997TT
#16
Race Director
A co-worker is selling his '07 997TT. I asked for first right of refusal when he first got it back in '09 as a 40K mile car. It now has just over 80K miles. He said he has never had a problem with it. The dealership where it was sold (CPO) and serviced is less than a mile from work and 3 miles from my home.
I plan on asking for the service history and doing a PPI, but what else should I look for on a car with that many miles? He loves it but he puts too many miles on it, he just got a CPO M6 that his GF likes better and he just wants a cheaper commuter (3 hours a day).
Thanks!
I plan on asking for the service history and doing a PPI, but what else should I look for on a car with that many miles? He loves it but he puts too many miles on it, he just got a CPO M6 that his GF likes better and he just wants a cheaper commuter (3 hours a day).
Thanks!
Everything.
It is just a used car so a thorough used car check out is Job 1.
Visit the car cold, turn off A/C (you check this later) be sure the CEL and other lights come on then go off when you start the engine.
Let the engine idle and warms up all the while you listen to the engine for anything out of the ordinary.
After 10 or so minutes of idling if the engine sounds ok during the whole time, then have the seller take you on a 15 mile test ride then back at the starting point take the car out as a driver and drive it over the same route and drive the car the same way.
Be sure you experience the car in a variety of scenarios.
Monitor oil pressure, boost and volts, coolant temp, whatever you can looking for any thing out of the ordinary.
Have the driver do a hard acceleration from idle to red line then upshift and keep his foot in it. The engine should pull then continue to pull without complaint, then after settle into a quiet smooth idle. Do a hard brake just short of ABS trigger. The car should slow without drama.
Back at the starting point the 2nd time then do a full used car check out. Assume nothing works until you verify it does work.
If you still like the car have it PPId.
Now's the time because of the engine run time, car drive time any leaks if there are any leaks should be in evidence.
Or don't do a PPI. I didn't PPI my used 03 Turbo with a CPO warranty, but I did check out the car quite carefully more than once when the dealer was closed then the day before I bought it and the day I bought it.
But I had the car in for a 6-speed fluid change and the tech spotted a selector shaft seal leak and the tranny was replaced under CPO warranty.
Sincerely,
Macster.
#18
Advanced
Thread Starter
What to look for?
Everything.
It is just a used car so a thorough used car check out is Job 1.
Visit the car cold, turn off A/C (you check this later) be sure the CEL and other lights come on then go off when you start the engine.
Let the engine idle and warms up all the while you listen to the engine for anything out of the ordinary.
After 10 or so minutes of idling if the engine sounds ok during the whole time, then have the seller take you on a 15 mile test ride then back at the starting point take the car out as a driver and drive it over the same route and drive the car the same way.
Be sure you experience the car in a variety of scenarios.
Monitor oil pressure, boost and volts, coolant temp, whatever you can looking for any thing out of the ordinary.
Have the driver do a hard acceleration from idle to red line then upshift and keep his foot in it. The engine should pull then continue to pull without complaint, then after settle into a quiet smooth idle. Do a hard brake just short of ABS trigger. The car should slow without drama.
Back at the starting point the 2nd time then do a full used car check out. Assume nothing works until you verify it does work.
If you still like the car have it PPId.
Now's the time because of the engine run time, car drive time any leaks if there are any leaks should be in evidence.
Or don't do a PPI. I didn't PPI my used 03 Turbo with a CPO warranty, but I did check out the car quite carefully more than once when the dealer was closed then the day before I bought it and the day I bought it.
But I had the car in for a 6-speed fluid change and the tech spotted a selector shaft seal leak and the tranny was replaced under CPO warranty.
Sincerely,
Macster.
Everything.
It is just a used car so a thorough used car check out is Job 1.
Visit the car cold, turn off A/C (you check this later) be sure the CEL and other lights come on then go off when you start the engine.
Let the engine idle and warms up all the while you listen to the engine for anything out of the ordinary.
After 10 or so minutes of idling if the engine sounds ok during the whole time, then have the seller take you on a 15 mile test ride then back at the starting point take the car out as a driver and drive it over the same route and drive the car the same way.
Be sure you experience the car in a variety of scenarios.
Monitor oil pressure, boost and volts, coolant temp, whatever you can looking for any thing out of the ordinary.
Have the driver do a hard acceleration from idle to red line then upshift and keep his foot in it. The engine should pull then continue to pull without complaint, then after settle into a quiet smooth idle. Do a hard brake just short of ABS trigger. The car should slow without drama.
Back at the starting point the 2nd time then do a full used car check out. Assume nothing works until you verify it does work.
If you still like the car have it PPId.
Now's the time because of the engine run time, car drive time any leaks if there are any leaks should be in evidence.
Or don't do a PPI. I didn't PPI my used 03 Turbo with a CPO warranty, but I did check out the car quite carefully more than once when the dealer was closed then the day before I bought it and the day I bought it.
But I had the car in for a 6-speed fluid change and the tech spotted a selector shaft seal leak and the tranny was replaced under CPO warranty.
Sincerely,
Macster.
#19
Advanced
Thread Starter
I know those cars last. He said the tech told him of a regular who bought his '04 TT there new and it has 272k miles and going strong. Impressive.
#20
Nordschleife Master
Well, I have two small boys I need to drop off at daycare. I still hope to use it 1-2 days a week (which is why I am considering a 911, otherwise I'd get a Boxster), but being so close to everywhere I usually go, I don't see myself adding more than 5k miles a year.
He is offering it to me for $40k. Hard to pass it up, IMO.
He is offering it to me for $40k. Hard to pass it up, IMO.
get a PPI and take that bad boy, it's a steal
#21
Race Director
It is just a car and can suffer the ills that befall any car either from wear/tear, lack of servicing, age, or luck.
Even if your pre-purchase inspection is the 2nd best in the word and that of a professional is the best and neither turns up any issues at all that is no guarantee the water pump or fuel pump or something else won't decide it is time to die shortly after you buy the car. Things happen and happen rather quickly.
What you really seek to avoid is buying an outright bad car or one that has known issues, at least known issues that you can't live with.
Or if you can live with them, then get some adjustment on the car's price. You do not want to pay excellent money for a car in fair condition.
By way of an example: Worn tires due to just miles are an issue I can accept. provided I can get an adjustment on price that I can live with (and the seller of course can live with the adjustment too).
But tires worn out or worn weird from bad accident repair I can't accept. In this case the car is I would say "bad" and one to be avoided.
Last but not least remember a rule of thumb when buying a used car is to have set aside 10% of the car's purchase price just in case. If you do a good job of shopping and with a little luck that 10% will remain in the bank to use towards your next car purchase.
Look upon that 10% stash as payment for doing a good car inspection and purchasing a good car.
Sincerely,
Macster.
#22
Drifting
The TT's has the revered Mezger engine. At that price and a clean PPI... why not. So what if you need to replace the WP, plugs, coils, etc... those parts are cheap if you DIY.
#23
Drifting
First of all, 80k is high, and not a very high mileage, for a Ferrari, maybe, not for 997
Talk to the place the car was serviced at, spend some money on ppi, if it checks out. 40k is such a deal. Easily the best 997 deal of this year.
Talk to the place the car was serviced at, spend some money on ppi, if it checks out. 40k is such a deal. Easily the best 997 deal of this year.
#24
Rennlist Member
Well, I have two small boys I need to drop off at daycare. I still hope to use it 1-2 days a week (which is why I am considering a 911, otherwise I'd get a Boxster), but being so close to everywhere I usually go, I don't see myself adding more than 5k miles a year.
He is offering it to me for $40k. Hard to pass it up, IMO.
He is offering it to me for $40k. Hard to pass it up, IMO.
#25
Advanced
Thread Starter
I am a mechanical engineer, and pretty handy, but just haven't had the opportunity to get my hands too dirty with cars. This being a third car, I can leave it on the lift for days and not worry about needing to use it.
#26
Drifting
My '84 Targa has 78k on the clock and runs like a champ! Granted, "they don't make them like they used to", but that mileage had for the right price on a TT, should be a no brainer.
#27
Nordschleife Master
that's gotta be bull**** (re: M6 mileage)
I don't understand how an M6 would be a cheaper commuter. It gets what, half the gas mileage? That adds up quickly, especially if your commute is 3 hours.
From my experience, getting to know the previous owner (how he drives, maintains, and cares to know about his car, etc.) is just as important as getting an inspection. The clearbra is +1 for preventative maintenance. His comments, such as the one about his wife and cheaper commuter, IMO, are highly irrelevant.
Can he answer on the spot:
-When was the last oil change?
-Who does the work? If it's not dealer maintained, ask about the shop and do your research. See if he knows about his mechanic and if he cares whether or not the mechanic is competent.
-Approximately when and what major maintenance was done? Can he back the maintenance up with paperwork?
-What kind of brakes and tires are on the car?
Just a few to give you an idea...He should be able to answer these if he really cared about his car.
From my experience, getting to know the previous owner (how he drives, maintains, and cares to know about his car, etc.) is just as important as getting an inspection. The clearbra is +1 for preventative maintenance. His comments, such as the one about his wife and cheaper commuter, IMO, are highly irrelevant.
Can he answer on the spot:
-When was the last oil change?
-Who does the work? If it's not dealer maintained, ask about the shop and do your research. See if he knows about his mechanic and if he cares whether or not the mechanic is competent.
-Approximately when and what major maintenance was done? Can he back the maintenance up with paperwork?
-What kind of brakes and tires are on the car?
Just a few to give you an idea...He should be able to answer these if he really cared about his car.
#28
Advanced
I have just shy of 70k on my '07 Targa 4. With the exception of a water pump failure at 65k, I've hade zero problems. The car burns no oil. I plant to keep the car for many years and if I make it to 150k I'll be very happy.
Good Luck..
Steve in Saratoga Springs, NY
Good Luck..
Steve in Saratoga Springs, NY
#29
Rennlist Member
I had 68K miles on mine when I sold it and the car was a beast. If it was cared for I think you'll be fine.