USMC_DS1

I've been adding a few performance mods to my 2008 997.1 C2S over the spring and summer seasons... but waiting for the weather to cool down before doing a dyno run with the car. The weather forecast looked decent enough with low 60's predicted this morning. We finally got her hooked up for a few run at ~9:30am but the ambient temp was already at 82-84F in the dyno bay. Bummer!

The good news is that her pulls were still respectable. The 2nd run in 3rd gear was the best with 320.6 RWHP and 269.1 lbf-ft Torque... convert to power at the crank that's 377.2 HP and 316.6 lbf-ft torque if you factor in a standard 15% loss from engine to wheel. Not bad considering the stock car is rated at 355 HP and 295 llbf-ft torque respectively so a gain of 22.2 HP and 21.6 lbf-ft due to the mods.




These runs were done on a Dynojet dynometer at Colvin Automotive in Austin. BTW, I saw a nice silver Ford GT being loaded onto a transport trailer when I got there in the morning. A few things I learned afterwards... the Dynojet is a 2wd dyno and apparently that restricts the performance off our ABS systems, telemetry, etc... the car coughed up all sorts of CEL's after the runs which I cleared with my Durametric tool. According to FVD it's best to run our cars on an AWD dyno which would accommodate what the car's wheel sensors are looking for and that should also produce another 10+ RWHP. Here's an explanation re this on the FVD website: http://www.fvd.us/us/en/Porsche-0/99..._vehicles.html

BTW, I used Colvin for my past dyno pulls for my prior M3 as I built up the mods on it eventually ending with forced induction... I hadn't consider these recent technology nuances with the 997. So just a note to others intending to dyno your 997... look for an AWD dyno.

List of Modifications:
- IPD Plenum http://www.ipdplenums.com/index.php?...&id=4&Itemid=7
- Complete FVD Exhaust System http://www.fvd.us/us/en/Porsche-0/99...ps_4x90mm.html
- FVD Software Upgrade http://www.fvd.us/us/en/Porsche-0/99..._FastLoad.html

More important than the positive performance gains... I'm pleased subjectively with the results of these mods. I installed them in the following sequence and noticed the following characteristic results:
1. IPD Plenum produced midrange alertness... opened her up a bit.
2. FVD Exhaust system yielded huge audio bang for the buck, incredible mid-hi range pickup, notable HP(via the butt dyno prior to the real dyno... ) but also resulted in some low end lag.
3. FVD ECU Software remap... wow, this kicked up the low end dramatically, instant power at all bands, I'm recalibrating my brain/relearning how to drive the "new car" I just found in the garage... the car has a completely different feel - highly performant feel.

luisimo

Congratulations on your results but be mindful of the following...

- Different dynos will give you different results
- Without a base dyno is near impossible to sustain gains.

I did the chase of HP in my early years, eventually decided just to get a porsche. Never the less, I do miss the feeling of over-clocking a 80486

alexb76

Great, but doesn't mean anything unless you actually did a baseline dyno.

Spokane5150

Ideally a baseline would have been good but this dyno tells me alto. Considering that you lose approximately 15% to the rear wheels this dyno tells me that there is substantial increase in HP's and torque. If the loss is 50 HP then calculate approximate 15-20HP improvement. (50HP + 320HP = 370HP) I'm impressed! Plus, I trust the Marines butt dyno.

Sounds good man! I noticed a little lag when I put the Fisters on so the IPD and a tune may be in my future.

BTW Your dyno looks very similar to the IPD web site dyno. Let's compare....you should be happy with your results.

USMC_DS1

Spokane, thanks for the vote of confidence with the Marine butt dyno and LOL. Besides the IPD dyno website posting, I also find it interesting that FVD indicates a 21 HP gain on their website in the worst case scenario for these mods(excluding the IPD Plenum)... the dynojet pull for my car showed a 22 HP gain in 82F temp, a dyno that kicks off the ABS every so often, etc... worst case.

FWIW I agree in principle that getting a baseline is a good practice especially if this was a new dyno shop I had never used in the past. Having already done numerous dyno pulls with my prior car at this shop where I did do baseline pulls, then upgrades, analysis, more dyno pulls, more mods, some more pulls, etc over 5 yrs... I stopped worrying about whether their dyno was calibrated as the results were just lining up within 2-3% of factory specs for my prior M3 at stock and for the numerous mods I had implemented along the way. Therefore, I was comfortable that their dyno had enough accuracy for my general needs... which is to see if my mods where moving in the right direction.

Of course, we now all know that I need to find another local shop with an AWD dyno instead. In theory, I would need to start all over with the new shop and strip my car of all the mods, run a baseline, add back the mods to run another dyno... Yeah right. I calibrated Avionics gear for Uncle Sam for 14 yrs. In that occupation, it was critical to get certain types of assets calibrated within 0.25-1% of spec. For example, +/- one volt could result in +/- 1,000 feet for an aircraft. Accuracy was a matter of life or death in certain cases. In this case, a few Porsche ponies plus or minus on a particular dyno would not affect my livelihood nor anyone else. Plus regardless of what the specs are from mags, manufacturers, etc... it really boils down to how all the mods come together as a whole for the actual driver. And that's the challenge for me. Basically more HP w/o an associated sacrifice to responsiveness. This car now behaves the way I want it too... it has more pick up, it's louder, and more responsive(quicker) in a visceral way. In fact, it's now pushing me to a new level with the car... my clutch work timing needs to be a little quicker(re calibrated) to smooth out the extra power at launch from a stop. It's just a more engaging drive now. This should hold me over for another two years or so... or at least until my brain re calibrates towards this car's new level of performance. At that point who knows. Forced Induction would be the next logical step I suppose but for now I'm just enjoying the new to me ride.

Spokane5150

Forced induction and IMS scare me. I think a trade with a TT is in your future. I suspect you're pushing $225-250/HP. This reminds me of when I started upgrading my mountain bike. $100/gram.

gpjli2

I do have an IPD plenum for .1 motor for sale. Ne1 interested, pm. (sorry for the hijack but it seems appropriate given op's great results

USMC_DS1

That's actually spot on... I purchased the exhaust system slightly used(1 wk old) so with the additional ECU remap and IPD Plenum the entire package cost me ~$5,500 or $250/HP if 22HP gain is accurate. If I see additional ponies on an AWD dyno like FVD suggests( another 10+ RWHP) then I'm looking at $167/HP for 33HP gains from stock... Another way to look at this... I have a 997.1 C2S performing close to or beyond 997.2 C2S HP levels for less than $55K with ~2 yrs of CPO left. I'm satisfied with the results of these mods.

Re FI... my initial investigation indicates that there are some issues/challenges moving towards a solid/stable FI system. For example, the intake manifold is composite(plastic) powder coated with aluminum paint for purely appearance purposes I suppose... not ideal for FI. So I'm considering instead an x51 airbox or the addition/mod of a 997.2 airbox plus competition IPD Plenum might be interesting as a next step/mod project.

BTW, I like your analogy re mountain bikes at $100/gram... when I used to ride it was much more cost effective to just loose a few pounds off yours truly but I tended to do both... a few pounds here and a Dura Ace groupset for the roady and the XTR/XT groupset on the MTB bike. It's fun to tinker/mod... Bottom line I find these projects interesting/involving. It's a great way to spend quality time understanding how these beautiful machines work. I'll continue to share these mods as I do them. Love seeing the mods other forum members have done and their resulting perform benefits. Mod away and enjoy the ride folks.

hot nikon

Try some aircraft upgrades....


Spokane speaks the truth. N/A is good for only so much.


You need to move on over to the TURBO aisle.

USMC_DS1

It's very tempting. I do miss the whine up of the old super charger in my prior M3. If only the TT's were rear wheel drive. A GT2 would be way out of my price range. A boosted C2S might do the trick. But for now I'm way content with my NA C2S... at least for now.

Directioneng

Are the AFR's shown on the graph typical of this engine/tune requirements?

USMC_DS1

It actually looks unusually lean and I suspect it's the car trying to cut power due to lack of velocity in the front wheels. I'm waiting for a response from FVD on this but that's my guess. It's 92F today but in a few weeks I hope to do a proper pull at a shop with an AWD dyno when the ambient temp gets a bit cooler.

FiatCoupe

I don't think a 4WD dyno is going to help. The dyno creates a drag on the drivetrain, it does not spin the cars wheels. Therefore if you were to put it on a 4WD dyno you would still only be spinning the rear wheels and the front wheels will not turn.

BED997

I didn't read all the posts but it appears the IPD plenum may have been either negligable for the OP or something like a 5-10 hp gain?

I wonder how many of these +25 hp mods are returned?

utkinpol

If you guys want a FI p-car - get turbo or GT2 car. Doing FI on top of M96/M97 motor you may get lucky and get a lot of miles or may lose your motor in 1-2 seasons. It is very difficult to predict as you get good 100 horses more from supercharged motor and it does not come for free forever.