2005 997 Coolant Flush
#1
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2005 997 Coolant Flush
Yes I’m getting ready to change out my t-stat to a 160 degree one. From looking at where the thermostat is located looks like I’m going to lose a lot of coolant. So at that point I want to replace all the coolant. Can anyone tell me where a DIY instructions or video might be? Also has anyone used a Flush Kit (Air Kit) to remove all the coolant and if so what kind have you used and your reviews.
Thanks all..
Cameron
Thanks all..
Cameron
#2
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#3
I did this last week. Here is the procedure from a renntech posting. I used the Uview 550000 Airlift coolant vac. You can find it for about $115 on Amazon, and it far simplifies the process - no air pockets to contend with in the system. It was a joy using that tool.
Coolant Flush Procedure
(see also: http://pedrosgarage.com/Site_3/Flush...nt_System.html)
- Turn heater on high, fan on low
- Pull up the small metal clip on the release valve behind the radiator reservoir cap
- Remove the radiator reservoir cap
- Jack up the car and remove the coolant drain plug
- Once the flow of coolant from the drain plug has slowed to a trickle you can attack the hoses
- Remove thermostat and smaller hose next to it; drain
- Remove both rubber hoses that connect to the coolant drain housing
- Then remove the shield under the car that covers the transmission, this should expose the two small hoses to the heater core and the two large hoses to the front radiators
- Disconnect all four of these hoses
- Disconnect the two hoses in the front driver and passenger side wheel wells
- At this point you've removed the majority of the coolant (If you only use the drain plug and don't touch the hoses you'll be lucky to get 50% of the old coolant out)
- replace thermostat
- Reconnect all 10 hoses and reinstall the drain plug with a new metal seal
- Using an Airlift or equivalent coolant fill tool you will evacuate the air from the system
- Prepare a large container of mixed coolant that contains the volume of coolant required in your car and use the coolant fill tool to suck the coolant into the cooling system
Coolant Flush Procedure
(see also: http://pedrosgarage.com/Site_3/Flush...nt_System.html)
- Turn heater on high, fan on low
- Pull up the small metal clip on the release valve behind the radiator reservoir cap
- Remove the radiator reservoir cap
- Jack up the car and remove the coolant drain plug
- Once the flow of coolant from the drain plug has slowed to a trickle you can attack the hoses
- Remove thermostat and smaller hose next to it; drain
- Remove both rubber hoses that connect to the coolant drain housing
- Then remove the shield under the car that covers the transmission, this should expose the two small hoses to the heater core and the two large hoses to the front radiators
- Disconnect all four of these hoses
- Disconnect the two hoses in the front driver and passenger side wheel wells
- At this point you've removed the majority of the coolant (If you only use the drain plug and don't touch the hoses you'll be lucky to get 50% of the old coolant out)
- replace thermostat
- Reconnect all 10 hoses and reinstall the drain plug with a new metal seal
- Using an Airlift or equivalent coolant fill tool you will evacuate the air from the system
- Prepare a large container of mixed coolant that contains the volume of coolant required in your car and use the coolant fill tool to suck the coolant into the cooling system
#5
You can clamp the hose that goes to the thermostat and you'll lose just a couple of quarts at most. You will have to bleed the system afterwards. But if you have a couple of years on the coolant, I would just replace it with new.
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#8
Drifting
You'll lose about 3 gallons of coolant. The system holds north of 8 in total. Actually much more involved to completely flush the entire system. Take it as an opportunity to refresh the old coolant. Get your hands on an airlift tool. Makes this job easy. Lifetime = is more like a marketing speak for life of the warranty period. Have you considered changing out the WP since your already in there.
#10
Drifting
Yes, it's much more involved. I removed my t-stat housing when I did my WP replacement. The write-up I did earlier this year has a few pics and mention of the t-stat although I did not swap out the old t-stat with a 160F low temp t-stat. https://rennlist.com/forums/997-foru...-part-1-a.html Curious but which brand 160F t-stat are you going with and why... I notice that there are two different ones out there? http://www.pelicanparts.com/catalog/..._pg1.htm#item2 Likely a project I'll execute myself in the near future.
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I really havent researched the t-stat's yet. Once I have the time to actually do it I'll do some asking around to get other 997 owners that have installed them and get their suggestions. The only thing that would sway me one over another would be if it was a fail open t-stat. This I have used on other cars that I have done this too.. So this is what I'm really looking for.. It would be a nice peace of mind, if you know what I mean.