aka_Sven

I have a little video device stuck to the windshield in front of the mirror, and a V1 on the passenger's sun visor. That means two annoying wires and plugs. I am thinking of going to a shop and having them tap into the power in my auto dimming mirror, and attach the 12v wires that go to each device, but only long enough to reach their spots (5" for the video, 15" for the V1). I like where they are, and don't want to do the mirror-mount V1. But I have a few questions someone might have answers to:

(1) Would these draw too much power?

(2) Any recommendation for a shop in Los Angeles area to do this sort of thing?

(3) Should I be worried about someone messing this up, or is it pretty simple to get the plastic parts back together?

Thanks in advance for thoughts/suggestions.

DGrayling

An alternative would be to get the power from the fuse box and run the wires up along the edge of the windshield post and headliner. I used the Bussman product below for the positive connection.


The ground can easily be obtained from a fuse box mounting screw where it connects to the body.
Edgy01 did a good write up of how he hardwired his V-1 this way . . . along with the V-1 remote units below the PCM. Works great !

Dave

aka_Sven

Thanks Dave. I'll look into that option as well (and Edgy's posting). I can see the advantage of having the remote display below the PCM -- I'm always wondering if LEO see the red display and might latch on to me for that reason alone.

Edgy01

I would suggest bringing power up there from the fuse box. It's easier than you can imagine.

https://rennlist.com/forums/997-foru...tallation.html

okbarnett

I get my 12v for a radar detector from the celing console light power, wont draw excess power unless you have a abnormal device you are trying to hook up

Mike in CA

Power to the ceiling console light isn't switched, is it? I find having to remember to turn the detector on and off a PITA. That's why locating a switched source in the fuse box is a great solution.

aka_Sven

Thanks guys for the good suggestions. And Dan, thanks also for surfacing your prior description of the install down to the fuse box. I will explore that option.