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BTW, reason I cross-posted is that GT3 folks track a lot more and might have more experience with shifting issues.
Cheers!
Yes, but the issue is their gearbox is made by Getrag and yours is made by Aisin. Their synchros are much better than yours. While they may have more track experience most of them won't have suffered with the same shifting problems that you have. They've got steel synchros that work much better on track. Many of them don't know that they've got it better than you.
Though the issues with cables and mounts they mention do apply.
Yes, but the issue is their gearbox is made by Getrag and yours is made by Aisin. Their synchros are much better than yours. While they may have more track experience most of them won't have suffered with the same shifting problems that you have. They've got steel synchros that work much better on track. Many of them don't know that they've got it better than you.
Though the issues with cables and mounts they mention do apply.
lol... I am sure they KNOW they got it better than me!
So, back to fluid question, would replacing 15K old stock fluid, with stock fluid again, help.. or I have no choice but to upgrade to Delvac, and suffer street shifting challenges when car's cold?
With that mileage and usage if it were my car I would probably stick with OEM fluid. And focus a bit more on your racecraft when at the track. Unless you start racing it, that last 1 or 2 tenths of a second per lap isn't worth the wear and tear on the gearbox.
If you double clutch rev match the downshift into 2nd you'll really reduce the beating your 2nd gear synchros take.
I'm just subscribing to (and bumping) this thread since I've experienced the same on the street when trying to quickly grab 2nd and beat a yellow light. If somebody comes up with another explanation, I'm interested to find out. The idea that we're getting over past the gate for 1/2 seems plausible, but I'm not yet fully convinced. The second time it happened to me, I poked around trying to find the 2nd gear gate for several seconds before giving up and shifting back to 3rd. IMO, it felt more like a lockout or synchro issue more than a missed gate. But yeah, when you're not expecting it, it's hard to really take the time to do a full analysis of your actions and know what went wrong.
if point of engagement moves around that means your engine moves around - put in WEVO engine mounts.
It wasn't moving around, Paul. Not in that instance as it was described, and I am skeptical that engine mount movement could shift the required lever motion by the whole width of an engagement gate under any circumstances. As I posted back when this thread was hot, I believe the obvious answer is also the correct one. People just forget that second gear is not the first gate to the left, it is the second one because our shift pattern is
R 1 3 5
Ø 2 4 6
The left gate has a detente spring to keep the lever from moving into that 'vertical' position, but a quick grab for second with a mental image of it being in the lower left corner causes us to override the spring. And of course, the Ø stands for null, meaning pulling back in that leftmost gate position yields no gear at all.
it is possible, Gary, but usually it is all about mounts when you cannot put gear into place under braking/acceleration. on my car it was always so if I was going flat out on a hill. i could not put car into 3rd gear, same issue going into 2nd from 3rd.
it is possible, Gary, but usually it is all about mounts when you cannot put gear into place under braking/acceleration. on my car it was always so if I was going flat out on a hill. i could not put car into 3rd gear, same issue going into 2nd from 3rd.
This is puzzling to me, Paul, because I thought I'd read that we have a cable-controlled shift mechanism. Movement of the engine with torque shouldn't affect a cable mechanism any more than it would an old-style throttle cable. Has anyone proposed a mechanism for that effect?
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