Maintenance: Replace Serpentine Belt
04-18-2014, 05:45 PM
#46
Rennlist Member
I've got the same problem (although mine as replaced by OPC as part of a minor service). I suspect additional tension has resulted in noise from a pulley that has a little play.
10-03-2014, 01:27 PM
#48
Poseur
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
My '08 C2S has 47,500+ miles so it's time to inspect and possibly replace the serpentine belt... the job took about 45mins from start to finish. Total cost was $53.50 for genuine Porsche s-belt from Pelican Parts.
Vehicle History: 1st owner drove her for 2.25 yrs. I purchased her 3+ months ago with 46K miles on her. 1st owner did all scheduled maintenance at Power Porsche in Newport where she was purchased by him. All service records were provided by PP when I in turned purchased her from them. There was no record of the s-belt being replaced by PP.
The original S-Belt looked decent enough for a car with 48k miles but I could see small fraying on the edge as compared to the new belt so I replaced it while I had it all apart.
Attachment 545629
Tools and parts required: 24mm socket, break bar and/or drive ratchet, flat head screw driver, and a new serpentine belt.
Attachment 545631
Procedure: I followed the instructions on RennTech:
http://www.renntech.org/forums/tutor...-polyrib-belt/.
Here are also some additional pics and notes which may help others with this job.
Disconnect and remove the air box per these RennTech instructions: http://www.renntech.org/forums/tutorials/article/52-air-filter-change-instructions/
I pulled the connecting plug off the mass air flow sensor to make the job of getting in there with a drive wrench easier.
Attachment 545635
I also unclipped this part from the air box which allowed me to place the airbox outside the engine compartment.
Attachment 545636
Here's the air box outside my engine compartment.
Attachment 545637
As a reference I took a pic of the s-belt routing before removing it.
Attachment 545638
Turn tensioning pulley (#7) clockwise to loosen the s-belt and remove it.
Attachment 545640
This is a good time to inspect all the pulleys and tensioners for damage, free play, and proper movement.
Slide/feed the new s-belt in thru and between the bottom pulley (#1) and the rear of the engine compartment at the bottom... it's a little tight here
Attachment 545597
I found it easier to start the routing process by feeding a small part of the s-belt thru/between pulley #1 and #6 from the bottom.
Attachment 545598
THIS IS IMPORTANT/HELPFUL: once the routing is done make sure that the slack is near pulley #3, turn the tensioner pulley clockwise, slide the s-belt under pulley # 3... I found a screw driver very useful to help slip the s-belt into place.
Attachment 545634Attachment 545641
Again, thank you Renntech.org for some excellent instructions... even though they were for the 996.
Previous Maintenance Jobs: I replaced the air(with a K&N) and cabin filters when I purchased her 3 months ago. The dealership replaced my RMS and oil/oil filter as condition of my purchase. My PPI found an RMS leak... Last week I replaced my spark plugs and coils.
Next job will be to bled the brakes... waiting for Fedx to deliver my jackpoints to make that job a bit easier and safer.
Note: I kept the old s-belt JIC.. it's in my p-car emergency bag. Even though it's an old belt... it might be the only one available should I get stuck in a remote part of the country where there are no p-car dealerships in sight.
Vehicle History: 1st owner drove her for 2.25 yrs. I purchased her 3+ months ago with 46K miles on her. 1st owner did all scheduled maintenance at Power Porsche in Newport where she was purchased by him. All service records were provided by PP when I in turned purchased her from them. There was no record of the s-belt being replaced by PP.
The original S-Belt looked decent enough for a car with 48k miles but I could see small fraying on the edge as compared to the new belt so I replaced it while I had it all apart.
Attachment 545629
Tools and parts required: 24mm socket, break bar and/or drive ratchet, flat head screw driver, and a new serpentine belt.
Attachment 545631
Procedure: I followed the instructions on RennTech:
http://www.renntech.org/forums/tutor...-polyrib-belt/.
Here are also some additional pics and notes which may help others with this job.
Disconnect and remove the air box per these RennTech instructions: http://www.renntech.org/forums/tutorials/article/52-air-filter-change-instructions/
I pulled the connecting plug off the mass air flow sensor to make the job of getting in there with a drive wrench easier.
Attachment 545635
I also unclipped this part from the air box which allowed me to place the airbox outside the engine compartment.
Attachment 545636
Here's the air box outside my engine compartment.
Attachment 545637
As a reference I took a pic of the s-belt routing before removing it.
Attachment 545638
Turn tensioning pulley (#7) clockwise to loosen the s-belt and remove it.
Attachment 545640
This is a good time to inspect all the pulleys and tensioners for damage, free play, and proper movement.
Slide/feed the new s-belt in thru and between the bottom pulley (#1) and the rear of the engine compartment at the bottom... it's a little tight here
Attachment 545597
I found it easier to start the routing process by feeding a small part of the s-belt thru/between pulley #1 and #6 from the bottom.
Attachment 545598
THIS IS IMPORTANT/HELPFUL: once the routing is done make sure that the slack is near pulley #3, turn the tensioner pulley clockwise, slide the s-belt under pulley # 3... I found a screw driver very useful to help slip the s-belt into place.
Attachment 545634Attachment 545641
Again, thank you Renntech.org for some excellent instructions... even though they were for the 996.
Previous Maintenance Jobs: I replaced the air(with a K&N) and cabin filters when I purchased her 3 months ago. The dealership replaced my RMS and oil/oil filter as condition of my purchase. My PPI found an RMS leak... Last week I replaced my spark plugs and coils.
Next job will be to bled the brakes... waiting for Fedx to deliver my jackpoints to make that job a bit easier and safer.
Note: I kept the old s-belt JIC.. it's in my p-car emergency bag. Even though it's an old belt... it might be the only one available should I get stuck in a remote part of the country where there are no p-car dealerships in sight.
Most importantly is to give the pulleys a close inspection. Some cars experience NO wear while others require all of them to be replaced. The 997.1 cars have a factory pre-set tensioner (no adjustment by mechanic) while the 997.2 are quite different.
10-03-2014, 03:12 PM
#49
When I replaced the pulleys and tensioners last spring I did have trouble with removal of the tensioner. The replacement, which was a Porsche part, had a 16mm bolt head. when i stuck a 16 wrench on the old bolt head to loosen the nut the bolt turned. I finally stuck a 15 mm wrench on the bolt head and was able to remove the nut and tensioner pulley. I couldn't see how to get the old bolt out, so I put the new pulley on the old bolt, put a bit of loctite on the threads, and tightened everything up. Ive' driven over 5000 miles so far. no problems.
01-23-2015, 12:14 AM
#51
Three Wheelin'
20K miles - I prophylactically changed the belt and now i have the squeal. Gonna have to trouble shoot and start replacing pulleys. Last time to do anything prophylactic on this car. If it ain't broke...
Idler pulleys and tensioner kit is $259 and change. Not cheap...and I'm not even sure if that's the issue.
Idler pulleys and tensioner kit is $259 and change. Not cheap...and I'm not even sure if that's the issue.
Last edited by Buddhamonk; 01-23-2015 at 01:22 AM.
01-23-2015, 05:39 PM
#52
20K miles - I prophylactically changed the belt and now i have the squeal. Gonna have to trouble shoot and start replacing pulleys. Last time to do anything prophylactic on this car. If it ain't broke...
Idler pulleys and tensioner kit is $259 and change. Not cheap...and I'm not even sure if that's the issue.
Idler pulleys and tensioner kit is $259 and change. Not cheap...and I'm not even sure if that's the issue.
01-25-2015, 08:34 AM
#53
Instructor
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As the old adage goes "if it ain't broke, don't try to fix it." U mite just F up a perfectly good thing. Serpentine belt, water pump, etc. etc. The car will let you know when it needs to be replaced. Those that fear being stranded on the road if those things fail, that's what AAA is for.
01-25-2015, 10:56 AM
#54
RL Community Team
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
I follow the Porsche maintenance schedule to the letter except I do early oil changes. For things like ignition packs and pumps, I wait until they fail and found that they lasted (for me at least) way way longer than those who replace as preventative maintenance.
To be fair to those who worry, when my ignition packs went at around 130K (?) on my 2000 Boxster S, I required a tow. So.... maybe I will replace mine at 120K miles (3rd, 40k spark plug replacement)....I am due for my 80K plug replacement in a couple months.
Peace
Bruce in Philly
To be fair to those who worry, when my ignition packs went at around 130K (?) on my 2000 Boxster S, I required a tow. So.... maybe I will replace mine at 120K miles (3rd, 40k spark plug replacement)....I am due for my 80K plug replacement in a couple months.
Peace
Bruce in Philly
01-26-2015, 02:27 PM
#55
Rennlist Member
Well, I have same issue. Took car 06 4S in for oil chance, dealer says the tensioner pulleys were making noise and needed to b changed. I never heard any noise at all but had them replace and they changed the belt. I get the car back and when cold made a winning noise then goes away when warm. Took it back and they said it was water pump. Replaced the water pump. Got the car back, next day on cold start of course the whine is still there and goes away when warm. What gives? Taking it back on Wednesday. Any ideas? Please help! Thanks as always.
01-27-2015, 05:40 PM
#56
Poseur
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
See what happens when you do something unnecessary! We have found that many shops do a lot of collateral damage when replacing things.
Maintenance deferral isn't a bad thing.
Maintenance deferral isn't a bad thing.
01-27-2015, 08:33 PM
#57
Three Wheelin'
Well, I have same issue. Took car 06 4S in for oil chance, dealer says the tensioner pulleys were making noise and needed to b changed. I never heard any noise at all but had them replace and they changed the belt. I get the car back and when cold made a winning noise then goes away when warm. Took it back and they said it was water pump. Replaced the water pump. Got the car back, next day on cold start of course the whine is still there and goes away when warm. What gives? Taking it back on Wednesday. Any ideas? Please help! Thanks as always.
one of the yellow ones
01-27-2015, 11:27 PM
#58
I just went through this on my '05 with 120k miles. Mild squeaking when cold. I'm crazy about this stuff because I do track the car a lot and I do drive 4 states away each week (and I hate getting stranded).
Everything looked good (freewheeling and no grinding when run by hand) but it was annoying me so I experimented with changing all 3 rollers, no luck. new belt, no luck. I tried some belt-dressing spray as a test, no luck. then I was janking on the water pump and could get about .5mm end play. So I replaced that even though it had 30k miles. No luck. Then I was pulling the alternator and I could get end play on that. So i bought a new one and it turns out a new Bosch out of the box has the same endplay when pulling really hard- must be the directional clutch that does that. I replaced it anyway, no luck.
Finally, after all that I was leaning in the engine compartment just staring at the pulleys and I noticed that the recessed slotting in the pulleys on the crank/AC/PS had some black gunk- just literally impacted dust. The top of the valley of each recessed slot was bright metal but not the valley. So I took a small flat blade screw driver and put it in 2 layers of terrycloth and ran it through all the slots repeatedly. I even turned the crank (take the car out of gear and use a wrench) and cleaned that. It took 40 minutes to get them to the point where all the valleys were bright.
And that was it. I haven't experienced the squeak squeak squeak issues since.
Everything looked good (freewheeling and no grinding when run by hand) but it was annoying me so I experimented with changing all 3 rollers, no luck. new belt, no luck. I tried some belt-dressing spray as a test, no luck. then I was janking on the water pump and could get about .5mm end play. So I replaced that even though it had 30k miles. No luck. Then I was pulling the alternator and I could get end play on that. So i bought a new one and it turns out a new Bosch out of the box has the same endplay when pulling really hard- must be the directional clutch that does that. I replaced it anyway, no luck.
Finally, after all that I was leaning in the engine compartment just staring at the pulleys and I noticed that the recessed slotting in the pulleys on the crank/AC/PS had some black gunk- just literally impacted dust. The top of the valley of each recessed slot was bright metal but not the valley. So I took a small flat blade screw driver and put it in 2 layers of terrycloth and ran it through all the slots repeatedly. I even turned the crank (take the car out of gear and use a wrench) and cleaned that. It took 40 minutes to get them to the point where all the valleys were bright.
And that was it. I haven't experienced the squeak squeak squeak issues since.
01-28-2015, 08:42 PM
#60
For you old belt in a ziplock guys, what tools do you keep in the emergency car kit?