USMC_DS1

No worries.... this was one of my early DIYs so it could use some graphics.

Luxter

One more pic, just so everybody gets their bearing...



Everything in place. Note exhaust manifold studs c/w cooper cladded nuts replacing factory bolts.
Also A2-70 SS bolts connecting headers and cat sections also with copper nuts. Unfortunately Cargraphic didn't come with these bolts.
And, of course X51 headers....
Driver's side shown, just to confuse things a bit!

Cheers,
=L=

Luxter

Always a pleasure!
=L=

eflight

Great pictures , thanks

USMC_DS1

As a side note. Should you remove the exhaust manifold... Tighten bolts from the inside out and in diametrically opposite sequence to 23 Nm (17 ftlb.).

Luxter

You are welcome!

Also, keep in mind that all torque wrenches are most accurate in their upper range, typically 20-100% for quality wrenches and even higher for lesser quality junk.
So if you have a torque wrench 10-100 ft lbs then the 17 ft lbs required for manifold bolts will have highest % inaccuracy (can be as much as 10-15%, less for Snap-On, more for Made in ... You know where...)
And busting even one of those bolts is no fun. Trust me....
So, as James suggests, soak them well in a good penetrating fluid, use impact at low setting to undo them, don't apply any bending moment as you unscrew them.
Apply lots of Hi Temp anti seize before re-assembly.
=L=

USMC_DS1

Excellent advice Luke. We used to calibrate these in the Marine Corps and one of the more common mistakes by our fellow aviation techs was improper use of torque wrenches... namely using the entire range as you've indicated. We preferred staying in the middle range of a wrench but your advice is sound. This is why I have accumulated 6 torque wrenches over the years from low to high and of various types (1/4", 3/8", 1/2"). My go to wrenches are the better Neiko's and Precision Instruments... still affordable although I've gone through my fair share of cheap Sears branded ones as well. When you're on a budget it's better to have something than use the five figured SWAG wrench.

BTW, my son did bust one of those bolts when we installed the FVD exhaust system last year... a mis-comm between he and I regarding torque values. I said 17 ft-lbs. He heard something else. They're easy to snap so be careful. Fortunately, I have all forms of back out tools but they were unnecessary. A heavy dose of KanoKroil, a few hours of soaking, and the bolt was removed via our figure tips.

As an FYI... I did not use any anti-seize to re-install the exhaust manifold bolts. A 1st for me. The torque values provided by the Porsche shop manual is w/o any grease so I stuck with that as grease will deviate the torque value higher. FWIW, with my prior cars I always used some form of anti-seize.

eflight

New bolts, argh, everytime I turn around there is something else to buy. I guess there is no turning back now.

You dont really need a torque wrench, you turn it till it goes just a little loose, then you know its perfect

Luxter

I was thinking about it as well and frankly can't remember from top of my head if manual recommends any AS compound. Did not want to muddy the water even more so. After all 17 ft lbs is low for M8 bolt, so can't do too much damage either way.

I recently splurged and bought 3/8" Snap-On TechAngle, Ohhh Boi!
What a tool....
Just don't tell my wife please......

Luxter

LOL!!
So true.
That's why I think that removing mufflers only is an easier option for the first timers. 3 nuts on the muffler bracket + 4 bolts on a clamp to cats. That's all.
Cheers,
=L=

Doug_B_928

Yesterday I changed my plugs for the first time. The engineers were not kind with those muffler mounting brackets. They could have made them with a view to accessing the coils etc. (e.g., putting holes in them to allow a socket extension to pass through). I did the right side first. I couldn't see where the top pieces of the muffler bracket mount to the engine (to take the bracket off). It looked possible on the left side, but the left side was easier so not necessary. I can't imagine doing this job with the mufflers on, and they are so easy to remove. To add to the excellent tips on this forum, here are my thoughts:

1. Get the lowest profile T40 socket that you can. This was necessary because I used a torque wrench to tighten everything back to the correct setting. The muffler bracket is often in the way and having a shallow socket is the only way that I could see to accomplish this in some instances. The coil screws are the hardest aspect of torquing. They are only 7.5ftlbs so I used my smallest (1/4") torque wrench, which helps. But, for the most aft bolt on the most aft coil on the right side, I did not have enough movement of my torque wrench to click into the next gear (see pic below) and so I had to approximate that one. Next time I buy a torque wrench I'll investigate how much movement is needed to make it click to the next gear.

2. In some spots, I found it difficult to get my fingers around the electrical connection of the coil to remove it (after pressing on the release button and hearing the click of it releasing). So, I used a pair of long, angled needle nose pliers and, with gentle upward pressure, that worked very well (see pic below).

3. The heat shield on the left side is a tight fit to remove. It catches between the muffler bracket and where the aft heat shield bolt mounts to the engine. With a little "gentle persuasion" it will push out toward the front of the car.

4. Another incredibly helpful tool is the spark plug magnetic wobble extension set that has been referred to a number of times on this forum. I used both the medium and long pieces from the set (see pic of the set below).

5. Also, as noted many times before, a host of extensions of different lengths, as well as adapters to go from different size ratchets to sockets, and universal joints are helpful/necessary. Below is a pic of how I got the middle plug out on the left side using a long extension and a universal joint.

6. I also, as per the FWSM, unplugged the cable plugs for the solenoid hydraulic valves as needed. To do so simply push on the silver wire and then pull on the plug. The wires attached to these plugs are held in place by a little clamp and can easily be spread open to release the wire, thereby allowing the cable and wire to be moved out of the way. Re-installation is simply the reverse.

Overall, this is a simple task made difficult by having little room in which to work.

One question for others: I notice that the coil bolts have some kind of blue coating on them (doesn't look like optimoly TA/silver antisieze). I didn't put any antisieze on them because I didn't see anything in the FWSM about antisieze. So, do you put antisieze on the coil bolts or not?

Macster

None of my references say anything about putting anything on the coil bolts.

USMC_DS1

Congrats on the plug swap... great to see another DIYer on the forum.

+1... I wonder if your plugs were changed by an Indy previously who felt compelled to use some type of adhesive substance. I just used the 7.5 ft-lbs Porsche recommended for the ignition coil bolts when I did my plugs almost 2 years ago and 22 ft-lbs for the plugs. No need for any anti-seize grease on the plugs or anything else.

Doug_B_928

Nope, the plugs have never been changed. The car only has 15,400kms. But, since it's now 7 years old I figured it was time. They weren't blue to look at, but kind of a bluish tinge to them. Maybe it's just the color of the bolts. Glad to know that I wasn't supposed to put any antisieze; I'd hate to go back in there again before it's necessary.

Rotmilky

I did mine a few weeks back. There was no mention of any AS compound for the exhaust manifold in the workshop manual. I do recall doing a number of furious searches on the 'net to try to figure out what some of the other assembly compounds they were recommending to use for some of the other parts I had taken off. Wish I could remember what it was and what it called for. I just remember 47 syllables followed by paste. Something like Porshengruppensheitzenkaputenfoosen paste. I laughed when I first saw it.