Slow cranking after running
03-02-2012, 11:40 PM
#31
Pro
My early build 2005 has been slow cranking for quite awhile. It's never failed to start but sometimes it seems like it's really straining. I just ordered the new cable/harness from Suncoast for 100 bucks. I'll either do it myself and have my Indy wrench tackle it.
05-20-2012, 01:06 PM
#32
all that is very easy to check. get a multimeter and connect it to battery - check the voltage, start up your car, check if voltage went to 13.x something at least. if it was 12.x and remained 12.x - you have issues with charging - ether wires or alternator, who knows. if voltage jumps up fine - just get a new battery and repeat test again, old battery and new battery. if it still cranks slow with new battery - then contact your service manager and let them dig into it. new battery is under $100 from any local retail.
if the car still cranks slow does this mean the starter or the alternator cable might be bad?
06-26-2012, 09:33 PM
#33
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Has anyone did a DIY on how to take a measurement at the Alternator? I tried it today and the harness is packed away and looks untouchable. My car turned over very hard yesterday with air conditioner on and 100F ambient temperature. I had the voltage tested and put a load on the battery at Autozone and everything checked out fine with the battery. The voltage was 14.0 when running at the battery terminal.
My car has always turned over slow or slower than every other car I've owned. I have until August until my warranty runs out so I'll probably take it in for warranty.
My car has always turned over slow or slower than every other car I've owned. I have until August until my warranty runs out so I'll probably take it in for warranty.
07-03-2012, 09:01 PM
#35
Pro
I just had my alternator/starter harness replaced w/ the upgraded version. Since my 2005 is a Tiptronic the task is a bit more difficult since the tranny has cooler on top of it making access difficult. I was planning on doing it myself but it really requires a lift to make it much more 'labor' friendly. I bought the new harness months ago from Suncoast and decided it was time after a few really slow and painful cranking episodes.
I stopped by my local 'stealer' (oops I mean dealer) last week to see how much they wanted to do the job. After telling me they would have to drop the engine and tranny the price quoted was . . . . are you sitting down . . . .. $2,200 (labor only since I had the harness). I politely told them they were full of s**t and blew exhaust vapors in their face.
My indy shop just did the job for $440 w/o dropping the engine or tranny. He had to remove the air filter box, thottle body intake, loosen the alternator and remove the under belly plastic shield. He was able to get to the harness although he said it was tight.
The car cranks w/ authority now. I purposely drove it hard to get the temperatures elevated and still it cranked just fine. No moaning or slowness are all.
I stopped by my local 'stealer' (oops I mean dealer) last week to see how much they wanted to do the job. After telling me they would have to drop the engine and tranny the price quoted was . . . . are you sitting down . . . .. $2,200 (labor only since I had the harness). I politely told them they were full of s**t and blew exhaust vapors in their face.
My indy shop just did the job for $440 w/o dropping the engine or tranny. He had to remove the air filter box, thottle body intake, loosen the alternator and remove the under belly plastic shield. He was able to get to the harness although he said it was tight.
The car cranks w/ authority now. I purposely drove it hard to get the temperatures elevated and still it cranked just fine. No moaning or slowness are all.
07-03-2012, 10:22 PM
#36
Instructor
I feel you pain had the same issues i knew it was the wiring harness but since my mechanic was going to be in there i told him to change the starter as it has never been changed and did not want to take the chance of it going on me or that actually beeing the problem so he replaced harness and starter with parts 600 bucks , now she cranks up like a mad woman hot , cold no difference .
07-10-2012, 12:58 AM
#37
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Slow cranking when hot- problem solved
Ok, dealer replaced the starter and replaced a melted starter harness. Car starts up quickly with no issues of slow cranking.
Problem solved.
Car was still under extended warranty and I had to pay a small deductible.
Extended warranty is up in Feb 2013. Car has 58,000 miles. Way to costly for another Extended warranty
Problem solved.
Car was still under extended warranty and I had to pay a small deductible.
Extended warranty is up in Feb 2013. Car has 58,000 miles. Way to costly for another Extended warranty
07-10-2012, 10:19 AM
#39
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Just got mine back yesterday and they recharged the battery and reset the airbag light. Told me the car has the upgraded cables and I need to keep a trickle charger on it. The light was cause by low voltage. I guess I'll keep a trickle charger on it.
07-10-2012, 10:54 AM
#40
I had exactly the same problem on my 06 C2S and managed to fix it. The above posts are correct, there is a fault in the heavy gauge B+ cable on the engine that feeds power to the starter - the fault is a poor crimp on the lug that bolts to the starter itself. This was a known fault for 05/06 cars and the approved fix is a new cable at great expense as the cable sits under the rest of the engine loom so is very difficult to access to replace. I repaired mine in situ which took about 1 hr. I bought a 35 quid hydraulic crimp tool off ebay and pulled out the air box, the throttle body and plenum. I could then remove the B+ cable end off the starter (battery disconnected) and pull it out towards the rear of the car sufficiently to get the crimp tool on. With the very powerful hydraulic tool the crimp was re-shaped and re-secured to the cable. All back together an perfect, cranks perfectly all the time, hot or cold.
07-10-2012, 01:15 PM
#41
Rennlist Member
anyone have a step by step DIY, preferrably w/pix? i have removed the airbox and the TB before, but have never tried plenum or anything else invasive. (altho i hear that if you only replace the cable itself after removing it from the harness guide, and simply reuse/leave the old plastic guide in place, you might not have to take out the plenum?) also, any other special tools besides sockets, torx sockets and socket extensions/elbows?
07-10-2012, 05:29 PM
#42
I regularly use a trickle charger. When charged overnight this way 2-3 times a week I do not have this problem; was an issue for me previously. Takes a few seconds to connect it via the cigarette lighter and also prolongs battery life. You folks might want to give this a try before tackling what sounds like a real pita or $$. An Interstate with increased cranking capacity also helps.
07-11-2012, 12:19 AM
#43
Racer
Here is a link to a DIY on another forum that someone else has done to his car. I've been saving the link for my future fix because my car slow cranks too.
http://www.6speedonline.com/forums/9...ml#post3427155
http://www.6speedonline.com/forums/9...ml#post3427155
Would like to shake that man's hand.
07-11-2012, 10:46 AM
#45
Rennlist Member
Here is a link to a DIY on another forum that someone else has done to his car. I've been saving the link for my future fix because my car slow cranks too.
http://www.6speedonline.com/forums/9...ml#post3427155
http://www.6speedonline.com/forums/9...ml#post3427155