philyeh

A head that fell off a lugnut caused my car some major damage. I suspect a mechanic had over-tightened it at some point, causing it to weaken and eventually break off.

So I’m going to buy my own torque wrench and check tightness of all of the remaining nuts myself. However, I have no idea what to look for in a wrench.

I’m sure many of you have your own torque wrenches for your lug nuts. Any favorite models/brands or features? Anything I should be aware of when shopping for a wrench?

And how tight should the wheel nuts be? Is there a universal measuring system for how tight one nut is? I assume it’s by pounds? Is there a range that is considered ideal? If it makes a difference, my car is a 2006 997.1 C2S with 20-inch aftermarket wheels.

Thanks in advance for the insightful responses!

jakes dad

Just spent a week or two trying to decide on which torque wrench to buy.. Finally decided on a $35.Sears model 0 to 150 lbs, 1/2-in sq. drive Beam-type Seems to do the job just fine... 19mm six point deep socket..
I'm going to see if I can find a different socket that will be easier on the lug bolts. Saw one that was softer but for the life of me I can't find out where I saw it.

On the 997.2 model the bolts are torqued to 96lb. but I'd check the manual for your model.
Also, Porsche recommends an aluminum paste on the threads and between the bolt head and tapered washer... making sure not to get grease on the shoulder of the bolt that comes in contact with the wheel.

LlBr

Here're some, however they don't have INSIDE "padding." BTW, Griot's has Tq wrenches too.

Look at your socket, should have six points AND the faces of the flats should be CURVED not straight (see pic). If they are straight they will put too much pressure of the very edges of the lug bolt head and will crack the paint. Curved flats can't touch the very edges and also won't be able to concentrate enough force to crack the paint in the middle of the bolt head. Something like that.

Bigger pic shows BAD socket design with flat "flats. " Will crack paint on edges of lug bolts.

Mike in CA

I've owned a Craftsman click-type torque wrench for years. It has an adjusting **** with numerical settings that read in both foot pounds and Newton meters. IMO, the click type wrenches are easier to use than the beam type because you don't have to have line of sight to read the scale and there is no chance of parallax error; you just set the dial to the proper torque and tighten until it clicks. The proper torque for 996/997 lug bolts is 96 ft/lb or 130 NM.

Always tighten bolts alternately and across from one another. For example, if you were to number the bolts clockwise 1-2-3-4-5 you would start with 1 then 3 then 5 then 2 then 4. Never tighten one bolt all the way until you have tightened all the bolts part way. I make two passes using the above method, tightening firmly but not to final torque with the first pass, then torqueing to the click with the second pass.

Also you should use some of the paste shown below on the lug bolts periodically. Just a thin coating is required on the threads of the bolts (not the shoulders which contact the wheels). The stuff is not cheap (I paid $30 for this tube) but it will last you for years. Hope this is helpful.

MUSSBERGER

I use the same wrench and "never seize" and I will check them again after a drive.

JackQ

I do not think the use of never cease or other lube on the lugs is correct. The 96ft/pds spec if for dry fasteners, with lubrication the torque required should be less than 96ft/pds. It is key to know that the intention of the torque spec is to stretch the bolt a predetermined amount to maintain clamping pressure, while not excessive stretch the fastener or loosen with time.

LlBr

I think Porsche is assuming a slight film of light machine oil on threads. Then again maybe they're supposed to be dry. Probably no big deal either way with machine oil film.

OTOH, Not anti seize metal paste lubes. They're very slippery and stay slippery no matter how hot things get.

FWIW:

http://www.mechanicsupport.com/bolt_torque.html


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jakes dad

I'm making a resonable assumption that the owners manual is calling for 96lbs torque with the bolts lightly coated with the aluminum paste.

LlBr

Oops! You are right, we are wrong!

Aluminum paste is ok, on threads and between spacer and head.

jakes dad

I found the socket in the Performance/Automotion supplement 2010 catalog.
On page 100
soft socket has an outer chrome-moly socket with a soft aluminum insert to gently hold your nuts. They claim that it's strong enough to "stand the test of time" yet gentle enough to not ruin your lug nuts...
1/2 drive to work with torque wrench...

$37 BUCKS.......for that money it should caress your nuts....

It's probably a small price to pay if it really works...

MUSSBERGER

http://www.devcon.com/products/produ...ze%20Lubricant

This is what I and every one else I know use. Very sparingly

Also bought a soft socket from these guys when it was on sale
http://www.vertexauto.com/ShowItem/4...ty%20Tool.aspx

Mike in CA

The Permatex product is copper based while Porsche specifies an aluminum paste. I don't have a degree in metallurgy, or any testing to show whether the copper product was appropriate, so I played it safe and went with Porsche's recommendation.

Glad you see the light jakes dad and I were trying to shine!

LlBr

Yeah! I should: instead of relying on memory

GreggT

Yep...either a paste or a lubricant.....makes sence

BTW....pretty extensive recent thread over on 6speed on T-wrenches in 997 section.
For what it's worth....the Craftsman clickers don't last for me and they aren't covered under the normal replace warranty.

vexed

I have a craftsman click type but last year I bought a used snap on digital torque wrench off ebay, partly because it went lower and I wanted to be **** about re-torquing the oil filter cover. The snap on buzzes when you hit the value set, it also has a flex head that helps.

The soft sockets can purchased from a number of vendors, I'll try and find where I bought mine from.