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For anybody interested in making the conversion I have a new set of black Fabric Door Pull straps that were replaced with red straps at the time of delivery of my GT4. Check out the GT4 sub board on the 981 forum for easy ways to change the strap color as well as install instructions. $100 takes them!
having difficulty uploading photos to RL from my iPad (unlike the past) happy to send to your email address if you are interested....
Did this recently and ordered the parts myself and was able to save a bit over the cost of the Suncoast Package. Except, the part number for the right door insert is incorrect (U.S. Passenger side).
It should be 987-555-352-02-A03
Hey gang,
I'm halfway through doing this mod but was wondering, with the normal door handles if you pulled on it slightly you could drop the window (without the door opening) and if you released the handle it would go back up. However, with the door pulls installed this function seems to be lost (tugging the pull slightly does nothing) but the windows will drop and the door opens simultaneously when the pull is fully engaged. Is this normal or have I stuffed up the install of the bowden cable?
Did this recently and ordered the parts myself and was able to save a bit over the cost of the Suncoast Package. Except, the part number for the right door insert is incorrect (U.S. Passenger side).
It should be 987-555-352-02-A03
This. Wonder if a mod can edit the op as it does list the incorrect part number. Wish I had seen this reply before I ordered my parts, would have saved me 2 weeks down time and some $ having to ship the incorrect part back and wait for the correct one to come in.
If anybody is looking to convert to the pull straps, I still have this set new in the box. $100 shipped. Email me if you are interested at “morefun24@me.com”
I did the RS door pull conversion on my .1 GT3 this weekend using the kit from Suncoast: https://www.suncoastparts.com/product/DSK.html . As Spyerx posted a few years ago, the kit ships with the updated bowden cables that use a plastic cylinder at the end instead of the metal end style. I believe after the 997.1, Porsche updated to this new style of cable, so if you have a .2 car you shouldn't have to mess with the install of the new bowden cables. To install these bowden cable requires you to partially remove the inner door panel and fish the new end on to the door lock mechanism. As mentioned previously, It is a massive PITA to fish the new bowden cable in to meet the mechanism because there isn't much room to work with. Thank you to Spyrex because his post on the thread warned me beforehand what I was getting into. I eventually got the bowden cable in to the mechanism latch after about an hour of trying with the help of a long flat head screwdriver as an assistant.
After doing the install on the passenger side I moved onto the driver side and looking closer realized you CAN actually use the 997.1 version cable with the metal end on the new updated axle mount for the RS pulls that ships with the kit. As you can imagine, the install was much quicker and less painful with this method. See pic below of how I routed the metal end onto the axle mount. You can rotate the metal end once it is routed through the new axle mount and there is a plastic tab on the updated axle mount where this style 997.1 metal end "clicks" into place. Once installed it is very secure. See my pics below.
BTW, a Dremel tool was a big help in shaving off the posts from the new door inserts vs a razor blade like the DIY shows. It also made quick work of trimming the section of the door.
Passenger side in progress. This was after installing the new updated bowden cable which you can see with the white plastic end. This pic shows the inner door panel which has to partially dropped down in the rear to fish the new cable back to the door latch where it meets the door jam.
Passenger side complete
After spending a lot of time and frustration with the passenger side I had realized a way to use the 997.1 cable with metal end onto the 997.2 RS axle mount as seen below. This avoids having to remove the inner door panel altogether and the time consuming process of fishing the new bowden cable to the latch.
All done!
Originally Posted by cutlass476
For any of you doing this mod or chaning the door finishers behind the door handle here’s a little lesson I learned while doing this mod.
IF you are going to use screws to hold the new door finishing pieces in place rather than melting the plastic posts, you will need to provide additional clearance between the door latch axle assembly and the head of the screw that is directly behing the door latch axle assembly. It’s the one right behind the pin. I used a dremel tool and sand away about 1/8”. The axle post is very thick and is not an item that sees heavy torque so removing plastic from the shaft is fine. If you don’t do this, your door latches will not seat properly against the door. I had my driver’s door all the way back on before I realized this. I suggest test fitting the door handle prior to replacing the door panel back on the door. Other than that, great write up. Was very helpful. You just have to take you time as many of the plastic pieces on the door panel/card will break if you are too rough. Also, you will have to reset your power windows after you reconnect your battery. Just hold the window switch in the up position for about 5-10 seconds. Then lower the window and the do the same thing in the down position. Do dirver and passenger and you will be good to go. If you don’t do this, you auto/auto down feature will not work.
^^ Also found this post helpful when resetting the window switches.
12-01-2017, 10:11 AM
