Home-made Car Ramp for oil changes...
#1
Instructor
Thread Starter
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I decided to make my own ramp for lifting my CS2 high enough just for me to be able to take the oil lug nut off and for a regular oil emptying pan to fit under the car. Worked pretty well! And only cost me less than 40 bucks and about 2.5 hours out of my day today.
I bought a couple of 1ft x 12ft lumber and had they guys at Home Depot cut them for me in 3 feet sections:
![](http://i753.photobucket.com/albums/xx179/vinnysca/d4919b55.jpg)
Then I set my saw blade to a 45 degree angle cut:
![](http://i753.photobucket.com/albums/xx179/vinnysca/17794305.jpg)
Then I stacked two of them on top of each other, setting the top board back, sorta like a step:
![](http://i753.photobucket.com/albums/xx179/vinnysca/01ec7623.jpg)
I used 3 inch deck screws to secure them to each other:
![](http://i753.photobucket.com/albums/xx179/vinnysca/38f15f50.jpg)
The ones for the rears are pictured here. I screwed a piece of tire stops to the rear. Didn't have to do them for the ones for the front tires:
![](http://i753.photobucket.com/albums/xx179/vinnysca/cb6df2e2.jpg)
Once done, I tested them and they work great!
![](http://i753.photobucket.com/albums/xx179/vinnysca/89279b55.jpg)
![](http://i753.photobucket.com/albums/xx179/vinnysca/25450553.jpg)
![](http://i753.photobucket.com/albums/xx179/vinnysca/e604d4ac.jpg)
![](http://i753.photobucket.com/albums/xx179/vinnysca/4fe761d8.jpg)
![](http://i753.photobucket.com/albums/xx179/vinnysca/3fe8277b.jpg)
Vince
I bought a couple of 1ft x 12ft lumber and had they guys at Home Depot cut them for me in 3 feet sections:
![](http://i753.photobucket.com/albums/xx179/vinnysca/d4919b55.jpg)
Then I set my saw blade to a 45 degree angle cut:
![](http://i753.photobucket.com/albums/xx179/vinnysca/17794305.jpg)
Then I stacked two of them on top of each other, setting the top board back, sorta like a step:
![](http://i753.photobucket.com/albums/xx179/vinnysca/01ec7623.jpg)
I used 3 inch deck screws to secure them to each other:
![](http://i753.photobucket.com/albums/xx179/vinnysca/38f15f50.jpg)
The ones for the rears are pictured here. I screwed a piece of tire stops to the rear. Didn't have to do them for the ones for the front tires:
![](http://i753.photobucket.com/albums/xx179/vinnysca/cb6df2e2.jpg)
Once done, I tested them and they work great!
![](http://i753.photobucket.com/albums/xx179/vinnysca/89279b55.jpg)
![](http://i753.photobucket.com/albums/xx179/vinnysca/25450553.jpg)
![](http://i753.photobucket.com/albums/xx179/vinnysca/e604d4ac.jpg)
![](http://i753.photobucket.com/albums/xx179/vinnysca/4fe761d8.jpg)
![](http://i753.photobucket.com/albums/xx179/vinnysca/3fe8277b.jpg)
Vince
Last edited by vinnysca; 06-28-2010 at 07:38 AM. Reason: typo
#3
Burning Brakes
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My problem is that I have some ramps but ever since I epoxy coated my garage floor, the floor is so slippery that when I try to drive up onto the ramps, the ramps just slide forward. I think I need to put something on the bottom of the ramps so that they get more traction on the floor.
#5
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Nice work Vince on the ramps.
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#6
Nordschleife Master
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used to have some like that made for getting my jack undr my old car cause was too low, only downsides are sometimes the drive wheels pull the corresponding ramps faster or the fronts drag cause they dont wanna go up... i ended up putting rubber under them, the grip stuff you use in your cabinet drawers to keep pots from clanging around and it helped.
#7
Nordschleife Master
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My problem is that I have some ramps but ever since I epoxy coated my garage floor, the floor is so slippery that when I try to drive up onto the ramps, the ramps just slide forward. I think I need to put something on the bottom of the ramps so that they get more traction on the floor.
![Wink](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/wink.gif)
sandpaper just ruins floor.
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#8
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Great idea and job. My only concern: Any chance of the car crushing the wood? Maybe a silly question, but I don't know much carpentry. Would treated wood be a better idea?
#9
Nordschleife Master
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i would drill a pilot hole of course to avoid splitting and stress down the line, notice he used 3" screws so they could be counter sunk and still not protrude out the bottom..
if you really wanna get fancy, use some wood glue between them and you'll never have separation or cracking.. ;-)
the ones i made, i routed off all the edges and did the angle at 60*, glued and painted them... even put handles on the back side of them... they held up amazing but the last 2 cars didnt need them,
#10
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First time I got the car up the ramps, I didn't use the no-stick stuff. When I drove off the ramp, as soon as I got on the slanted part it slipped and shot out the back and the car was down on the ground much quicker than I intended !!! A scary moment but luckily no harm done.
Definitely put some no-slip rubber on ramps !!
(and nice job with the wood work OP, home made FTW)
#11
Burning Brakes
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That's just what I was thinking.
vinnysca, sorry about hijacking your thread
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#12
Instructor
Thread Starter
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I actually applied glue before screwing them on. And I also drilled pilot holes before putting in the screws. Glad you guys approved! I'm not due for another 7,900 miles until my next oil change, but I put the car up on it for the heck of it. Almost like a pedestal for my dream car! Hehe!
#13
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Nah. To our everyday human brains it's stunning how much weight wood will bear in the compression mode when the weight is distributed evenly.
Of course if you measure it in the lab with a 100 ton press (or more!?) a solid piece of steel will make a square of 2x6 lumber look like styrofoam.
Of course if you measure it in the lab with a 100 ton press (or more!?) a solid piece of steel will make a square of 2x6 lumber look like styrofoam.
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#14
Nordschleife Master
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I actually applied glue before screwing them on. And I also drilled pilot holes before putting in the screws. Glad you guys approved! I'm not due for another 7,900 miles until my next oil change, but I put the car up on it for the heck of it. Almost like a pedestal for my dream car! Hehe!
#15
Poseur
Rennlist Member
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Perfectly done! Simple. (Treated wood is not that good for several reasons, one of them is that treated wood is not as strong as simple Douglas Fir. The treatment process scores the outside of the wood (to allow chemical penetration) and weakens it substantially--there is no need in your application). Plus, you'll be handling these and don't need to worry about splinters from treated timbers.