Caring for your 911 (Products)
06-23-2010, 06:41 PM
#19
Instructor
I use products from Griot's. Ordered a detailing kit from them a long time ago. Never went with any other product since. They are great, especially their speed shine and polishes.
06-23-2010, 09:08 PM
#20
06-23-2010, 09:49 PM
#21
GT3 player par excellence
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06-23-2010, 10:36 PM
#22
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I was a Zymöl guy for years and years but once I discovered Zaino I can't imagine using anything else. It's so much better than the carnauba waxes.
06-24-2010, 12:02 AM
#23
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Leatherique is a bit of overkill for treated leathers in most vehicles, but in some cases it works. Remember, your leather is coated. Adding oil and cleanser used in Leatherique will sit on the leather to a degree as most other products can if not matched to the leather correctly. I've seen this product overused too much where it gets into the foam and any pre-covers under the leather skins. When this happens, it starts to break them down and rot anything that is not synthetic. Seen it in foam as well. If you really are set in using it, use it lightly.
There was a heated debate on another form with leather experts on this very issue.
Simple cleaning with Woolite/water mix with white 100% cotton towels to gauge your cleaning. Once dry, use a simple leather conditioner. All leather cleaners are nothing more than water, glycerin, soaps, fragrence and coloring. Save your $$ and mix up distilled water to Woolite. A 3 to 1 mix works well. You can rinse wipe the leather with distilled water and dry with a fresh towel. Let it dry long enough, then treat the leather.
After trying Sonus, I found it very close to new Porsche leather smell after an hour. Out of the bottle, it does not smell of leather, but what it does is release the natural tanning oils and chemicals when the leather was done. So after application, shut the doors, then say one hour later, open the door and be greeted to the smell you had when you took delivery. The other nice effect, it has the opposite feel you normally get with leather conditioner where you feel as if you slide in the seat. Sonus makes the leather feel as if it has more grip to it. No sliding or clammy or too soft feel, somewhat unnatural feel of other conditioners. Great for steering wheel! Try it, you'll see what I mean.
Sonus leather conditioner was developed by a Porsche owner and use original Porsche leather skins to get the formulation just right.
For more leather odor, Zaino Leather In a Bottle Z-10 is another close match, a bit more powerful but does very well in conditioning. Some like to put it on a white 100% cotton towel or face cloth and shove it under the seats to keep the odor fresh. The cleaner Z-9 also works well, but I'll stick with Woolite/water.
Another one I use is 1Z Lederpflege which also works extremly well and leaves a good odor. Make sure you shake it well prior to application.
Try to keep most leather conditioners away from stiching as it can start to weaken the areas. If it gets on it, wipe it off right away, do not let it soak. A quick pass is normally fine and it would take numerous over application to start seeing it weaken.
Here's one simple way to really care for dash coated leather. Use a sun shade! Yes, some conditioner have some UV protection, but not enough. I used my shade as often as possible. Tacky as it may seem, it works to preserve the dash and keeps interior temp lower.
I use Leatherique only on very worn leathers and mostly non-coated type. And it can make a dramatic recovery of worn tuff leathers in this case. It's amazing stuff. Used it for an old AH 1600 when an owner was getting prices to re-skin the seats. I used it and the seats were like new.
One to really stay away from is the formally known product Hide Food. This is loaded with kero and other VOC's and is only to be used on old non-coated leather or untreated English leather seats. NEVER use this on ANY coated leather!
Always test a spot not seen first no matter which product you use to see if there may be issues.
Remember that Porsche leather is coated as most others, so keep it simple, don't over treat and wipe off soon as opposed to "letting it soak" is the correct way to treat the leather.
As for Zymol, the real Zymol conditioner is Treat and normally sold by Zymol vendors or Zymol directly. Do not think the Zymol conditioner you see at Target is real Zymol. That product is licensed and made by Turtle Wax.
Whichever leather treatment you use, read the directions and only use cotton towels to assist in seeing just how dirty it is and to wipe off excess conditioner.
Regards,
Deanski
There was a heated debate on another form with leather experts on this very issue.
Simple cleaning with Woolite/water mix with white 100% cotton towels to gauge your cleaning. Once dry, use a simple leather conditioner. All leather cleaners are nothing more than water, glycerin, soaps, fragrence and coloring. Save your $$ and mix up distilled water to Woolite. A 3 to 1 mix works well. You can rinse wipe the leather with distilled water and dry with a fresh towel. Let it dry long enough, then treat the leather.
After trying Sonus, I found it very close to new Porsche leather smell after an hour. Out of the bottle, it does not smell of leather, but what it does is release the natural tanning oils and chemicals when the leather was done. So after application, shut the doors, then say one hour later, open the door and be greeted to the smell you had when you took delivery. The other nice effect, it has the opposite feel you normally get with leather conditioner where you feel as if you slide in the seat. Sonus makes the leather feel as if it has more grip to it. No sliding or clammy or too soft feel, somewhat unnatural feel of other conditioners. Great for steering wheel! Try it, you'll see what I mean.
Sonus leather conditioner was developed by a Porsche owner and use original Porsche leather skins to get the formulation just right.
For more leather odor, Zaino Leather In a Bottle Z-10 is another close match, a bit more powerful but does very well in conditioning. Some like to put it on a white 100% cotton towel or face cloth and shove it under the seats to keep the odor fresh. The cleaner Z-9 also works well, but I'll stick with Woolite/water.
Another one I use is 1Z Lederpflege which also works extremly well and leaves a good odor. Make sure you shake it well prior to application.
Try to keep most leather conditioners away from stiching as it can start to weaken the areas. If it gets on it, wipe it off right away, do not let it soak. A quick pass is normally fine and it would take numerous over application to start seeing it weaken.
Here's one simple way to really care for dash coated leather. Use a sun shade! Yes, some conditioner have some UV protection, but not enough. I used my shade as often as possible. Tacky as it may seem, it works to preserve the dash and keeps interior temp lower.
I use Leatherique only on very worn leathers and mostly non-coated type. And it can make a dramatic recovery of worn tuff leathers in this case. It's amazing stuff. Used it for an old AH 1600 when an owner was getting prices to re-skin the seats. I used it and the seats were like new.
One to really stay away from is the formally known product Hide Food. This is loaded with kero and other VOC's and is only to be used on old non-coated leather or untreated English leather seats. NEVER use this on ANY coated leather!
Always test a spot not seen first no matter which product you use to see if there may be issues.
Remember that Porsche leather is coated as most others, so keep it simple, don't over treat and wipe off soon as opposed to "letting it soak" is the correct way to treat the leather.
As for Zymol, the real Zymol conditioner is Treat and normally sold by Zymol vendors or Zymol directly. Do not think the Zymol conditioner you see at Target is real Zymol. That product is licensed and made by Turtle Wax.
Whichever leather treatment you use, read the directions and only use cotton towels to assist in seeing just how dirty it is and to wipe off excess conditioner.
Regards,
Deanski
06-24-2010, 12:29 AM
#24
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Wax or sealant... this is always a big thorn on most detailing sites as most have strong opinions.
Some like a more reflective sterile look from Rejex, some like more warmer, wax-like effects from Zaino and other sealants well known.
Waxes run from moderate price to insane. Wax is great for a specific look where you want a bit more depth or wet look. Most high-end waxes are nice, but if I did a side-by-side, it's very difficult to tell from the untrained eye.
With new sealants, more and more are getting close to a deep wet look.
Hell, you can do both like I do for shows. I have a base of Zaino several layers, then top with one coat of wax. When done, wash off wax with Dawn type soaps and clean off ready for another coat of Zaino.
Meguiars has come a long way on sealants as well.
But, first you need a finish that "looks waxed" to get the best effect. Without proper polishing, you are just hiding defects for a short duration if they are very mild. In some cases, it can make it worse looking. Finish prep and polishing is paramount to a gleeming shine.
Most "detailers" can cut time by just using a glaze say after leveling the finish enough. The glaze will fill voids before wax. Still, glaze has it's use. One great glaze that is close to one of my favorite glaze for dark finishes (Liquid Ebony) is made by Poorboys World called "Black Hole". Damn this stuff is great for really deep wet looking finishes if you wax. They also make one for light colors as well.
I still use Menzerna polishes after being introduced to them from someone that brought it back from Germany years ago. I knew they made jewelers polishes which is the finest you can get, so I was really interested. Stuff does have a learning curve, dusts like mad. Now, better formulas corrected almost all of the issues of dusting and working it out. I've used 3M for years and years, been very satisfied with them. But once you see what can be done with it you'll see what I mean.
Menzerna made the first Ceramiclear polish used for the hard clearcoat used by Maybach/MB when it came out. Found out that this very polish works very well with standard clearcoats as it breaks down just right. The new cutting polishes work without adding haze as others can. Finish polishes from them can make a black finish look like a piano finish or a black mirror. No rids or filling. After polishing with your favorite polish, try this.... wipe the area just polish with IPA (Isopropal Alcohol) and see with a high intensity light if the swirls came back. Then you know your polish contains a filler, normally kayolin clay. If you wax, I really would not worry, continue using it and wax away. But if you use a sealant, well, time to find a different polish.
I always tell people to test new ways of polishing with a machine on an old fender from a junk yard. Fenders have more curves and edges than say a hood so you get a better idea on how to yor polish and pad will react before you try it on your Porsche. Then, graduate to your winter beater to get more experience. Once ready, remember, Porsche paint is soft, easy to correct. Also easy to mar up if you're not carefull and take your time.
As always, it's easier to let an experienced detailer do it for you so you can relax and enjoy your car.
Regards,
Deanski
Some like a more reflective sterile look from Rejex, some like more warmer, wax-like effects from Zaino and other sealants well known.
Waxes run from moderate price to insane. Wax is great for a specific look where you want a bit more depth or wet look. Most high-end waxes are nice, but if I did a side-by-side, it's very difficult to tell from the untrained eye.
With new sealants, more and more are getting close to a deep wet look.
Hell, you can do both like I do for shows. I have a base of Zaino several layers, then top with one coat of wax. When done, wash off wax with Dawn type soaps and clean off ready for another coat of Zaino.
Meguiars has come a long way on sealants as well.
But, first you need a finish that "looks waxed" to get the best effect. Without proper polishing, you are just hiding defects for a short duration if they are very mild. In some cases, it can make it worse looking. Finish prep and polishing is paramount to a gleeming shine.
Most "detailers" can cut time by just using a glaze say after leveling the finish enough. The glaze will fill voids before wax. Still, glaze has it's use. One great glaze that is close to one of my favorite glaze for dark finishes (Liquid Ebony) is made by Poorboys World called "Black Hole". Damn this stuff is great for really deep wet looking finishes if you wax. They also make one for light colors as well.
I still use Menzerna polishes after being introduced to them from someone that brought it back from Germany years ago. I knew they made jewelers polishes which is the finest you can get, so I was really interested. Stuff does have a learning curve, dusts like mad. Now, better formulas corrected almost all of the issues of dusting and working it out. I've used 3M for years and years, been very satisfied with them. But once you see what can be done with it you'll see what I mean.
Menzerna made the first Ceramiclear polish used for the hard clearcoat used by Maybach/MB when it came out. Found out that this very polish works very well with standard clearcoats as it breaks down just right. The new cutting polishes work without adding haze as others can. Finish polishes from them can make a black finish look like a piano finish or a black mirror. No rids or filling. After polishing with your favorite polish, try this.... wipe the area just polish with IPA (Isopropal Alcohol) and see with a high intensity light if the swirls came back. Then you know your polish contains a filler, normally kayolin clay. If you wax, I really would not worry, continue using it and wax away. But if you use a sealant, well, time to find a different polish.
I always tell people to test new ways of polishing with a machine on an old fender from a junk yard. Fenders have more curves and edges than say a hood so you get a better idea on how to yor polish and pad will react before you try it on your Porsche. Then, graduate to your winter beater to get more experience. Once ready, remember, Porsche paint is soft, easy to correct. Also easy to mar up if you're not carefull and take your time.
As always, it's easier to let an experienced detailer do it for you so you can relax and enjoy your car.
Regards,
Deanski
Last edited by Deanski; 06-24-2010 at 08:19 AM.
06-24-2010, 01:48 AM
#25
Been detailing all my cars for about 10 yrs and I'd rank these in order of the wow factor per hr spent.
1) Clay bar once a yr
2) Klasse twice a yr
3) Tequipment leather cleaner/conditioner
Occasionally I'll throw in a coat of wax for the extra shine if I know it won't rain for a while. I also use the porter cable once in a while if I have time to kill.
1) Clay bar once a yr
2) Klasse twice a yr
3) Tequipment leather cleaner/conditioner
Occasionally I'll throw in a coat of wax for the extra shine if I know it won't rain for a while. I also use the porter cable once in a while if I have time to kill.
06-24-2010, 02:54 AM
#26
As for me, I use Optimum No Rinse Wash & Shine for washing, P21S Total Auto Wash for hard to clean road grime (it’s perfect for cleaning residue on the edges of paint protection film), and Griot’s Paint Sealant for the finishing touch. On the interior, I use Lexol and Vinylex. Overall, I'm very pleased with the results!
06-24-2010, 11:13 AM
#27
I use the lamp oil, it clicked with me the minute I realized the stuff I have is literally LIQUID paraffin. IOW, candle wax that can't solidify.
BTW, if I'm wrong, misinformed: don't tell me!
Just kidding.
06-24-2010, 01:44 PM
#28
Had my wheels off for maintenance and treated them to a RejeX application based on recomendations here on the forum. This stuff is incredibly slick, 100% Polymer, can't wait to see if brake dust washes off as easily as stated. Wheels have an incredible shine and depth. Have to buy it online. I may try it on one of my Volvos as a test. BTW Autopia is now selling a new product Ultima Paint Guard Plus that wipes on the car, no wipe off, just let it dry. They claim it is fantastic stuff that lasts. May give that a try.
06-24-2010, 07:36 PM
#29
Three Wheelin'
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Zaino Clear Seal is a wipe on, walk away product as well. Small spray bottle as a little goes a long way. Prep pad with Zaino Z6, then spray on the CLear Seal. Apply THIN! That's it.
As with ALL sealants, IT'S NOT WAX! Apply VERY THIN! If you can barely see where you applied it, that's the way to apply sealant.
Deanski
As with ALL sealants, IT'S NOT WAX! Apply VERY THIN! If you can barely see where you applied it, that's the way to apply sealant.
Deanski
