Bruce In Philly

Not all.... Mine is there when hot.

Peace
Bruce in Philly (now Atlanta)

Floyd540

Bruce, Have a report on shifting when engine OFF and when engine is running? reply #132. Doesn't matter if warm or cold (not too cold). I can deal with the tribology.

Bruce In Philly

I will do that this evening.

Peace
Bruce in Philly (now Atlanta)

tuner562

It was the same warm or cold.

Bruce In Philly

Cold at 42F with the engine off, the shifting is pretty much the same. Sometimes 1st jams, other times straight in. With the engine off, if I get the 1st gear jam, I have to go to 2nd, 3rd, whatever and then I can get it into 1st. Once in, it is straight in over and over... everything is properly aligned. Again, I feel the points on the dog teeth are worn and flattened some.

Peace
Bruce in Philly (now Atlanta)

joe 997

I moved to Florida and haven't had an issue since.😊

alfetta

@jayzbird is right, I use the same techique for both my 915 car (also cranky going into first at all temps) and my 997.2 (cranky when cold). I usually release fully and push in, I'll try the partial.

Floyd540

Since you are reporting that the shifting is "about the same" whether the engine is running or not gives us an important piece of information. This means that the clutch system/pilot bearing is completely releasing when the clutch pedal is fully pressed. This eliminates about a hundred different possible causes. When the engine is off and the car is sitting still, there is no motion going on so when you do get engagement you will always get repeated engagement. When the engine is running and the clutch is released in neutral you get rotation of the main input shaft, so the gear engagement (tooth to tooth) will always be different.
So now we are off to sort the next 100 possibilities.
Question: have you replaced the shift cables ,assuming they are the original .2 cables?
One if the issues we have with rear engine Porsches is the transmission could not be farther away from the shift lever. The monkey motion of the 356's is always (almost) the cause of shifting problems. In our cars that use a Bowden cable arrangement we have the inherent design problem of long distance and a semi-flexible cable that only works well in tension but is poor and springy in compression. For cars that have the shift lever built into the top of the gearbox there is a direct mechanical connection to the forks. That is a direct and rigid assembly. We do not have this luxury.
I doubt you have an internal transmission problem. Cable operated linkages will never be perfect. They just can't.
I am betting on cables /cable ends.

Rig.Stunts

I still like to double clutch shifting from 2nd to 1st while moving

I've done all the shifting improvement mods, and agree with @Bruce In Philly that the resistance may be due to internal wear.

1st to 2nd when cold is more of an effort than it should be. Fine when warm . . .

Bruce In Philly

Original cables. I did install the Numeric Shifter with no affect on shifting issues. The cable ends are pinned to the transmission so the cables move with it. I am not sure how the cable attachment to the levers at the transmission can make a difference. They are just on there. I can't get under there to look as I need a lift. But they are either attached or broken. The 997.2 appears to be more durable than the .1 as I don't recall anyone having a cable end break.

For this, I don't know if I am ever going to get under there as I don't take my car to dealers. Must just wait I guess... I must repeat that changing the fluid turned my car from being a real problem to tolerable... it was real.

Peace
Bruce in Philly (now Atlanta)

JustinCase

In the Nashville area, I had a similar problem where I knew where to look under the car if only I could put it up on a lift. I posted to this effect on the PCA Nashville (Musik Stadt) chapter's Facebook page, and I almost immediately was contacted by a member who has a full-bliown personal shop with a lift (he collects Porsches and does all his own maintenance). A brief drive over and problem confirmed and solved! Now, I have a standing invitation to come over whenever I need to. I suggest trying something similar with the Atlanta chapter (Peachstate Region), which is much bigger and even more diverse than the Nashville one and should be brimming with generous resources.

srb1194

I've driven the car a little more now and can say there isn't a discernible difference in the shifting with the new fluid. I'm having the shift rods calibrated today so that may yield an improvement. I'll report back if we accomplish anything or nothing. After this process today I'll either enjoy the repairs or learn to live with it.

Bruce In Philly

Ask them where exactly the calibration occurs... what they did. As I understand, the only calibration point is under the shifter and all that does is allow you to adjust the shifter to be straight up or canted.

Peace
Bruce in Philly (now Atlanta)

Bruce In Philly

Excellent idea, I will look into it.

Peace
Bruce in Philly (now Atlanta)

srb1194

I'll certainly ask. I believe you are correct and it really just puts the shifter in the center. Although I hate to spend the money I just want to bring closure to this. I really doubt that this procedure is going to fix anything but it may. Other posts indicate that it can make a difference.