What to look out for when buying from a private party
#1
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I recently moved to NYC from Tokyo and now considering buying a p-car (my first) from a private party.
The car specs are: 2006 C4 coupe with around 20k miles; manual; bi-xenon; self-dimming mirror; power seat; front clear bra; arctic silver metallic.
For an extra $5k-$10k, I could get a p-car with similar specs from a dealer, but I'd rather save the money and use it to retrofit a PCM 3.0.
Since this is going to be my first car purchase in the US, is there anything I need to look out for? I've done carfax and kbb (for pricing), and I wonder if there is anything obvious that I might have overlooked.
Thanks in advance.
The car specs are: 2006 C4 coupe with around 20k miles; manual; bi-xenon; self-dimming mirror; power seat; front clear bra; arctic silver metallic.
For an extra $5k-$10k, I could get a p-car with similar specs from a dealer, but I'd rather save the money and use it to retrofit a PCM 3.0.
Since this is going to be my first car purchase in the US, is there anything I need to look out for? I've done carfax and kbb (for pricing), and I wonder if there is anything obvious that I might have overlooked.
Thanks in advance.
#2
Burning Brakes
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Make sure the car has not had any previous body damage or
paint work. You will want to take it to a Porsche dealer to
have a PPI performed. During the PPI inspection, thouroughly
examine the undercarriage and paint work on the car--in
bright light.
I would strongly suggesting buying a P-Car from a private party
as long as you know its history. Dealer cars come from the
same source--a private owner at some point.
I don't know that I would get too hung up on putting a PCM 3.0
in the car.
Best of luck. Advise of your progress.
paint work. You will want to take it to a Porsche dealer to
have a PPI performed. During the PPI inspection, thouroughly
examine the undercarriage and paint work on the car--in
bright light.
I would strongly suggesting buying a P-Car from a private party
as long as you know its history. Dealer cars come from the
same source--a private owner at some point.
I don't know that I would get too hung up on putting a PCM 3.0
in the car.
Best of luck. Advise of your progress.
#3
Burning Brakes
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Make sure the car has not had any previous body damage or
paint work. You will want to take it to a Porsche dealer to
have a PPI performed. During the PPI inspection, thouroughly
examine the undercarriage and paint work on the car--in
bright light.
I would strongly suggesting buying a P-Car from a private party
as long as you know its history. Dealer cars come from the
same source--a private owner at some point.
I don't know that I would get too hung up on putting a PCM 3.0
in the car.
Best of luck. Advise of your progress.
paint work. You will want to take it to a Porsche dealer to
have a PPI performed. During the PPI inspection, thouroughly
examine the undercarriage and paint work on the car--in
bright light.
I would strongly suggesting buying a P-Car from a private party
as long as you know its history. Dealer cars come from the
same source--a private owner at some point.
I don't know that I would get too hung up on putting a PCM 3.0
in the car.
Best of luck. Advise of your progress.
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#4
Rennlist Member
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I recently moved to NYC from Tokyo and now considering buying a p-car (my first) from a private party.
The car specs are: 2006 C4 coupe with around 20k miles; manual; bi-xenon; self-dimming mirror; power seat; front clear bra; arctic silver metallic.
For an extra $5k-$10k, I could get a p-car with similar specs from a dealer, but I'd rather save the money and use it to retrofit a PCM 3.0.
Since this is going to be my first car purchase in the US, is there anything I need to look out for? I've done carfax and kbb (for pricing), and I wonder if there is anything obvious that I might have overlooked.
Thanks in advance.
The car specs are: 2006 C4 coupe with around 20k miles; manual; bi-xenon; self-dimming mirror; power seat; front clear bra; arctic silver metallic.
For an extra $5k-$10k, I could get a p-car with similar specs from a dealer, but I'd rather save the money and use it to retrofit a PCM 3.0.
Since this is going to be my first car purchase in the US, is there anything I need to look out for? I've done carfax and kbb (for pricing), and I wonder if there is anything obvious that I might have overlooked.
Thanks in advance.
Then if you look at car and you like it and it does not look like racers` toy - you take it to nearest Porsche dealer for PPI (call there in advance to schedule it), during PPI tell them you want a complete one - they have "short" and "long" versions of PPI, also tell them you need to do DMI scan - check if ranges 3 and above do not show anything.
Then if you like everything and PPI was good and you are committed to buy and you pay cash - go to your bank with seller, take certified check from a teller, go to bank manager who usually is a public notary, within presence of notary complete sales agreement papers with seller, have it signed and notarized, sign and notarize price disclosure papers - look online what specifically your state rules require, in MA just sales agreement is enough. Then after you got everything signed exchange your check for car`s title.
NOW - pay extra attention to see in title if owner is actually an owner and if car is not still financed by some bank or loan. DO NOT agree to "wait" for seller to close that loan after you give him you money. Seller has to close the loan and receive proper title BEFORE you give him your money - this process may take time first of all and secondary, you do not want to end up with title which is not legit and will not let you to register your new car.
It is the most important part of buying from private party - to make sure seller actually owns the car. If car was financed it must have a stamp on title saying that loan was paid in full. Other than that nothing is extra tricky.
Also, try to find a used car that had CPO status - it transfers from one private party to another and will be very helpful for you.
#5
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As a dealer I would tell you to forget swapping in the PCM 3.0. Its insainly expensive and you would do better going to a high line auto electronic shop and working with them.
#7
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Once you find the right car, have a PPI (Pre-Purchase Inspection) performed by a Porsche dealer.
Cost about $200 and they will run the same tests/checklist as a CPO. Make sure to have a DME read to see if the engine was abused (i.e. run beyond redline).
Good luck!
FM
Cost about $200 and they will run the same tests/checklist as a CPO. Make sure to have a DME read to see if the engine was abused (i.e. run beyond redline).
Good luck!
FM
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#8
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If the seller has a greased back hair style and wears open shirts with a lot of gold chains, you might be in for a scam. ![Wink](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/wink.gif)
Definitely get a PPI done by an independent. If you need referrals, try contacting your local pca reps at pca.org. Email them for names of reputable mechanics who can go through the car thoroughly.
And whatever dealer has been servicing this car should have the history.
Good luck!
![Wink](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/wink.gif)
Definitely get a PPI done by an independent. If you need referrals, try contacting your local pca reps at pca.org. Email them for names of reputable mechanics who can go through the car thoroughly.
And whatever dealer has been servicing this car should have the history.
Good luck!
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Eric
Chief Plug Guy
BumperPlugs.com
2022 GT3 Touring
2009 997 Turbo Cab
2018 M2 6sp
Gone but not forgotten
2004 C4S Cabriolet
1999 C2 Cab
#9
Burning Brakes
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Look at all service records and get permission from the owner to talk to that service department or mechanic who usually takes care of the car. If he/she is not willing to tell you where the car is serviced or give permission...then ? something to hide.
abe
abe
#10
Burning Brakes
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I recently moved to NYC from Tokyo and now considering buying a p-car (my first) from a private party.
The car specs are: 2006 C4 coupe with around 20k miles; manual; bi-xenon; self-dimming mirror; power seat; front clear bra; arctic silver metallic.
For an extra $5k-$10k, I could get a p-car with similar specs from a dealer, but I'd rather save the money and use it to retrofit a PCM 3.0.
Since this is going to be my first car purchase in the US, is there anything I need to look out for? I've done carfax and kbb (for pricing), and I wonder if there is anything obvious that I might have overlooked.
Thanks in advance.
The car specs are: 2006 C4 coupe with around 20k miles; manual; bi-xenon; self-dimming mirror; power seat; front clear bra; arctic silver metallic.
For an extra $5k-$10k, I could get a p-car with similar specs from a dealer, but I'd rather save the money and use it to retrofit a PCM 3.0.
Since this is going to be my first car purchase in the US, is there anything I need to look out for? I've done carfax and kbb (for pricing), and I wonder if there is anything obvious that I might have overlooked.
Thanks in advance.
On a side note... I personally wouldn't waste the money retro-fitting PCM 3.0. You can do far better, for far less, by going aftermarket. I'm sure I'll get flamed here for this but Porsche electronic gizmos absolutely suck in comparison to the competition and what's widely available in the aftermarket. I'm ok with that because I'd rather the $ went into the attributes that improve driving but it cracks me up when people wax poetic about how great the newest PCM is on the 997.2 cars... IT STILL SUCKS!... it's just world's better than the crap that is in my 2008 997
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#11
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I was just going through this with a MINI I wanted to add to the collection. Ask questions , PPI is most important. Hopefully, he is an enthusiast and not just an owner, that always helps. Carfax is only as good as the shops that report to it!
PPI it, well worth the money. Does the car have ANY warranty left? If it does, plan a trip asap to get some miles on it and see if anything will break on your watch!
PPI it, well worth the money. Does the car have ANY warranty left? If it does, plan a trip asap to get some miles on it and see if anything will break on your watch!
#13
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NOW - pay extra attention to see in title if owner is actually an owner and if car is not still financed by some bank or loan. DO NOT agree to "wait" for seller to close that loan after you give him you money. Seller has to close the loan and receive proper title BEFORE you give him your money - this process may take time first of all and secondary, you do not want to end up with title which is not legit and will not let you to register your new car.
#14
Rennlist Member
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Useless - you can get copy of service records from seller but dealership will not communicate any details to you citing privacy policy.
#15
Rennlist Member
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Legally you get into dangerous territory paying cash to other person who has his car still financed. Legally he is not yet an owner. What if he uses your money to pay off his credit cards and next day dies from heart attack? Where is your car then? Or if he gets divorced next day after he pays off loan with your money and his ex-wife claims half of that car you just paid for?
Everything may be fine of course, he may be an honest person and pay off that loan with your check, in week or two time he will get stamped title and give it to you. Or may be not. I would never take such risk, not for a $50K+ cash buy.