Anyone using cheap tires?
#61
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I have the Bridgestone RE-11's on my 997 right now, and I think it is a much better tire than both of my OEM tires, the P Zero N1 and (most particularly) the PS2 N1. The PS2, for me, was the least capable tire I've had on my two 997s, I personally find the RE-11 to be a far better tire, it is significantly grippier, quieter, sharper on the turn in and better riding than the PS2.
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I've run on the RE050A but not on a 997, I had a set on my 550i Sport. I think it is a very good tire, and while it's close to impossible to make a meaningful comparison when we're talking about experiences with a tire on different cars, I would have to say the RE-11 is the clear winner - it is little short of phenomenal in the dry, and unlike many other aggressive street/track tires it's actually very good in the wet. We had a tremendous amount of rain out in the Bay Area over the last two or three weeks, and RE-11 never missed a beat - very composed in what were moderately treacherous conditions (by Bay Area standards, at least
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I ve been running with pzeros, ps2, and reo50, in my previous bmw and my brand new 997.2 came with continentals for some reason? I took delivery in december and had them equip the car with pilots Alpine(great in snow). im just wondering why, and what my continentals will be like and why people on this forum dont mention them much?
#64
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There is a significant difference between the N0 and the N1 RE050A. The new N1 is a very good tire both on the street and on the track.
All comparisons w/ the RE11 seem to be with the N0. I would like to hear about comparing the RE11 with the RE050A N1.
All comparisons w/ the RE11 seem to be with the N0. I would like to hear about comparing the RE11 with the RE050A N1.
#65
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This web site has some interesting perspectives: http://www.carbibles.com/tyre_bible.html
Porsche N-rated tyres
line of porsche
Porsche designs and manufacturers some of the highest performance cars in the world (with the exception of the butt-ugly Cayenne). All this design and performance is worth nothing if you put cheap Korean tyres on your Porsche though, and because of that prospect, Porsche introduced the N rating or N specification system. In order for a manufacturer to be an OE (original equipment) supplier of tyres for Porsches, they must work with the Porsche engineers at the development and testing stage. They concentrate on supreme dry-weather handling but they also spend a considerable amount of time working on wet-weather handling. Porsches are typically very tail-heavy because of the position of the engine relative to the rear wheels, and with traction control off, it's extremely easy to spin one in the wet. Because of this, Porsche specify a set of wet-grip properties which is way above and beyond the requirements of any other car manufacturer.
OE tyres for Porsches must successfully pass lab tests to prove that they would be capable of adequately supporting a Porsche at top speed on a German Autobahn. Once the lab tests are done, they must go on to track and race tests where prototypes are evaluated by Porsche engineers for their high-speed durability, uniformity and serviceability. If they pass all the tests, Porsche give the manufacturer the go-ahead to put the car tyres into production and then they can proudly claim they are an N-rated Porsche OEM (Original Equipment Modifier).
The N-ratings go from 0 (zero) to 4, marked as N-0, N-1 etc. This N-rating, stamped into a tyre sidewall, clearly identifies these tyres as having gone through all the nauseating R&D and testing required by Porsche as described above. The number designates the revision of the design. So for a totally new design, the first approved version of it will be N-0. When the design is improved in some way, it will be re-rated as an N-1. If the design changes completely so as to become a totally new tyre, it will be re-rated at N-0.
If you've got a Porsche, then you ought to be aware that as well as using N-rated tyres, you ought to use matching tyres all around because many Porsches have different sizes tyres front and rear. So for example if you have a Porsche with N-3 rated tyres and the rear ones need replacing but the model has been discontinued, you should not get N-0's and put them on the back leaving the old N-3's on the front. You should replace all of them with the newer-designed re-rated N-0 tyres. But then you own a Porsche so you can certainly afford four new tyres....
One final point. You may go into a tyre warehouse and find two tyres with all identical markings, sizes and speed ratings, but one set has an N-rating. Despite everything else being the same, the non-N-rated tyres have not been certified for use on a Porsche. You can buy them, and you can put them on your car, but if you stuff it into the armco at 150mph, Porsche will just look at you and with a very teutonic expression ask why you didn't use N-rated tyres.
Porsche n-rated tyre
Porsche N-rated tyres
line of porsche
Porsche designs and manufacturers some of the highest performance cars in the world (with the exception of the butt-ugly Cayenne). All this design and performance is worth nothing if you put cheap Korean tyres on your Porsche though, and because of that prospect, Porsche introduced the N rating or N specification system. In order for a manufacturer to be an OE (original equipment) supplier of tyres for Porsches, they must work with the Porsche engineers at the development and testing stage. They concentrate on supreme dry-weather handling but they also spend a considerable amount of time working on wet-weather handling. Porsches are typically very tail-heavy because of the position of the engine relative to the rear wheels, and with traction control off, it's extremely easy to spin one in the wet. Because of this, Porsche specify a set of wet-grip properties which is way above and beyond the requirements of any other car manufacturer.
OE tyres for Porsches must successfully pass lab tests to prove that they would be capable of adequately supporting a Porsche at top speed on a German Autobahn. Once the lab tests are done, they must go on to track and race tests where prototypes are evaluated by Porsche engineers for their high-speed durability, uniformity and serviceability. If they pass all the tests, Porsche give the manufacturer the go-ahead to put the car tyres into production and then they can proudly claim they are an N-rated Porsche OEM (Original Equipment Modifier).
The N-ratings go from 0 (zero) to 4, marked as N-0, N-1 etc. This N-rating, stamped into a tyre sidewall, clearly identifies these tyres as having gone through all the nauseating R&D and testing required by Porsche as described above. The number designates the revision of the design. So for a totally new design, the first approved version of it will be N-0. When the design is improved in some way, it will be re-rated as an N-1. If the design changes completely so as to become a totally new tyre, it will be re-rated at N-0.
If you've got a Porsche, then you ought to be aware that as well as using N-rated tyres, you ought to use matching tyres all around because many Porsches have different sizes tyres front and rear. So for example if you have a Porsche with N-3 rated tyres and the rear ones need replacing but the model has been discontinued, you should not get N-0's and put them on the back leaving the old N-3's on the front. You should replace all of them with the newer-designed re-rated N-0 tyres. But then you own a Porsche so you can certainly afford four new tyres....
One final point. You may go into a tyre warehouse and find two tyres with all identical markings, sizes and speed ratings, but one set has an N-rating. Despite everything else being the same, the non-N-rated tyres have not been certified for use on a Porsche. You can buy them, and you can put them on your car, but if you stuff it into the armco at 150mph, Porsche will just look at you and with a very teutonic expression ask why you didn't use N-rated tyres.
Porsche n-rated tyre
#66
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#68
#70
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Yep, in order for the tires to be "certified" to be used on a Porsche, the manufacturer has to jump through some hoops for them. Wonder how much the "certification" program costs?
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#71
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Dan; I certainly agree that if you're going to by this type of car, you should also have considered the manitenance aspect of the purchase. The purchase price, while certainly not insignificant should not be considered as bottom line; you're spending more on a car that will require more expensive maintenance bills. Hopefully this is a purchase of passion, which will carry passionate mainteance - I mean that in a good way.
I just purchase my first 911 for Xmas (2009). The purchase price was what it was (conduct a search if you must know), but in the past 1.5 months I have spent another $3k in front clear bra, clear 3M cristalline tine (the thing is pretty cool!), various accessories, lots of good paint protection and cleaning products (thanks former OCBen!), etc.
I absolutely don't mean this as bragging and I don't think this behavior is abnormal following a passionate purchase. I have started looking into rubber replacement. The odo is readin 1876 and the 2k break-in period is right around the corner... meaning rubber will dissapear faster still.
My question would be; what if you do not anticipate taking the car to track? What if 90mph is all the car is going to see in the next 5k-7k miles while it keeps breaking in? Is there much reason to pay tons of attention to the N0 to N3 rating? Can a $275/tire cost be considered out of line vs. a PS2 $475/tire cost?
I don't think I'd sink down to first price tires, but perhaps something middle of the line (Bridgestone seems to satisfy lots) would be ok. If not; that is fine; just not sure what I'll be missing on by saving $800 on a set - and I agree, don't mix and match tires.
I just purchase my first 911 for Xmas (2009). The purchase price was what it was (conduct a search if you must know), but in the past 1.5 months I have spent another $3k in front clear bra, clear 3M cristalline tine (the thing is pretty cool!), various accessories, lots of good paint protection and cleaning products (thanks former OCBen!), etc.
I absolutely don't mean this as bragging and I don't think this behavior is abnormal following a passionate purchase. I have started looking into rubber replacement. The odo is readin 1876 and the 2k break-in period is right around the corner... meaning rubber will dissapear faster still.
My question would be; what if you do not anticipate taking the car to track? What if 90mph is all the car is going to see in the next 5k-7k miles while it keeps breaking in? Is there much reason to pay tons of attention to the N0 to N3 rating? Can a $275/tire cost be considered out of line vs. a PS2 $475/tire cost?
I don't think I'd sink down to first price tires, but perhaps something middle of the line (Bridgestone seems to satisfy lots) would be ok. If not; that is fine; just not sure what I'll be missing on by saving $800 on a set - and I agree, don't mix and match tires.
#72
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My car came with the Bridgestone RE050A tires (N0) and I have been quite happy with them. Others got Michelins and Pirellis. There is a bit of a price point between the Bridgestones and the Pirellis and Michelins. As many of you know, the 911 can be a tricky car to drive, particularly in adverse conditions. If it's rainy out there and you are on a non-N tire then you pays your money and you takes your chances. Porsche (as well as other car manufacturers) put a lot of time into ensuring that their cars work well with the tires that they select for them. In the past I learned a bit more about advances in tire technology and moved from Pirelli P7s to Yokohama A008s--and found myself an outstanding tire. Far better than the tire Porsche was pitching. Flash forward to today.
I'm glad that several of you recognize that when you purchase a Porsche you recognize that with it comes a certain investment in maintenance. Porsches have never been inexpensive to maintain. Ever. Yet today, we have dozens of buyers all excited about getting into their first Porsche, a car that they have craved for decades sometimes, and then once they find their 'deal' of a lifetime, they revert back to trying to maintain it like they would a Ford Fiesta. It can't be done. And it's alright for them to recognize that maybe a Porsche really isn't ultimately for them. The things they thought they recognized in desirable things in the Porsche line are somewhat masked until you actually buy one. I just spent about $800 today on two new rear Bridgestones for my car. It's that price of driving these things. I won't compromise on that. Others will. And others don't really have the same demands of their cars.
I don't even track my car. Yet, I want to make sure that the tires are up to the task of driving that car safely at both US and Euro speeds. Part of the mystique of the Porsche is that it is a high performance machine that is typically capable of traveling all day at high speeds (above 150 mph) on the Autobahn. Sure, you're in America, where you will never do that. However, get into some heavy rain, puddling on the freeway, and then ask me about tire performance. I would rather know that I have done everything I can to increase my safety margins. It's just like PCCBs. Most Porsche drivers consider them overkill, yet many are sold. Why? It's not bragging rights. It's safety.
I recall years ago taking a trip with the local PCA and we were traveling in a convoy along a mountain ridgeway road. One of the guys in a 1975 Porsche 911 apparently had put retreads on the back of his car. (This was probably around 1986, so that 911 was only about 10-12 years old). Sure enough, the left rear tire literally disintegrated, and shredded all over the hood of the following Porsche and trashed his own car. Privately, I thought, what an idiot. He jeopardized his own life and that of others and for what? Sure, that's a fairly extreme example, and I wouldn't expect anyone on the 997 forum to be looking at retreads, but that's the direction we're going. I happen to like the Bridgestones that Zuffenhausen chose for my car. Fortunately for me, they are not the top-shelf in price like the Michelins or Pirellis. I get my N-spec tires and feel secure with them.
I'm glad that several of you recognize that when you purchase a Porsche you recognize that with it comes a certain investment in maintenance. Porsches have never been inexpensive to maintain. Ever. Yet today, we have dozens of buyers all excited about getting into their first Porsche, a car that they have craved for decades sometimes, and then once they find their 'deal' of a lifetime, they revert back to trying to maintain it like they would a Ford Fiesta. It can't be done. And it's alright for them to recognize that maybe a Porsche really isn't ultimately for them. The things they thought they recognized in desirable things in the Porsche line are somewhat masked until you actually buy one. I just spent about $800 today on two new rear Bridgestones for my car. It's that price of driving these things. I won't compromise on that. Others will. And others don't really have the same demands of their cars.
I don't even track my car. Yet, I want to make sure that the tires are up to the task of driving that car safely at both US and Euro speeds. Part of the mystique of the Porsche is that it is a high performance machine that is typically capable of traveling all day at high speeds (above 150 mph) on the Autobahn. Sure, you're in America, where you will never do that. However, get into some heavy rain, puddling on the freeway, and then ask me about tire performance. I would rather know that I have done everything I can to increase my safety margins. It's just like PCCBs. Most Porsche drivers consider them overkill, yet many are sold. Why? It's not bragging rights. It's safety.
I recall years ago taking a trip with the local PCA and we were traveling in a convoy along a mountain ridgeway road. One of the guys in a 1975 Porsche 911 apparently had put retreads on the back of his car. (This was probably around 1986, so that 911 was only about 10-12 years old). Sure enough, the left rear tire literally disintegrated, and shredded all over the hood of the following Porsche and trashed his own car. Privately, I thought, what an idiot. He jeopardized his own life and that of others and for what? Sure, that's a fairly extreme example, and I wouldn't expect anyone on the 997 forum to be looking at retreads, but that's the direction we're going. I happen to like the Bridgestones that Zuffenhausen chose for my car. Fortunately for me, they are not the top-shelf in price like the Michelins or Pirellis. I get my N-spec tires and feel secure with them.
Last edited by Edgy01; 02-04-2010 at 12:43 AM.
#73
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I'd like to find out more of the out of round issue the OP has had. I have Pzero's that I just can't get balanced perfectly. The last time I got them balanced the tech he just couldn't get all of the hop out of the rears. I took this to mean they must not be perfectly round. Can a tire just all of a sudden go out of round?
#74
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Thanks for your extra lines on the subject Dan. I have Pirelli's and have 305-25 in 20" in the rear. I know the 20" will be extra cost and that is fine; I still like them, even if the rotors do look a bit smaller and even if the tires are a few $ extra.
Based on what I've read I think I'll go Bridgestone when it comes time to replace.
PCCB's? I still think that depoite all they are overkill for all but the most sever applications. With that said, the cost of cleaning wheels might alone justify the added cost. I've gone through 1L of P21S already, + brush + microfiber + time spent. I was thinking just last weekend the PCCB's would be on my next P-car build to order.
Can you retrofit PCCB's by the way (if you have regular breaks)? Any idea of cost?
Based on what I've read I think I'll go Bridgestone when it comes time to replace.
PCCB's? I still think that depoite all they are overkill for all but the most sever applications. With that said, the cost of cleaning wheels might alone justify the added cost. I've gone through 1L of P21S already, + brush + microfiber + time spent. I was thinking just last weekend the PCCB's would be on my next P-car build to order.
Can you retrofit PCCB's by the way (if you have regular breaks)? Any idea of cost?
#75
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Retrofitting is pretty much cost prohibitive. The biggest plus (if you keep the car for many years) is deferred maintenance costs. All you have to do is bleed your fluid every 2 years. Pads are rarely worn, and the rotors even less. I am expecting 200,000 miles on the rotors. But then, I keep my cars. I do like that they are lighter and I get a better ride with the lesser unsprung weight.