Here is a picture on my 2009 997 fuse box.

The empty slot circled in red in row "A" is "on" with the the key out of the igntion. The power to the test light goes off when the key is in the ignition.

The other empty slots don't seem to have power either way.

I am testing with the key out and also the key in (with the radio powered).

What gives? Do I need to actually have the engine running (which I did not do)?

I am looking for an empty slot that is "power on" with the ignition switch, but no power with the key out.

Any tips would be greatley appreciated.

For those that have done this before which is the target empty slot for "on with igntion only?"

 

Positions C1 and C5 (as seen above) do not have fuses in them. They can be used as switched power supplies for accessories – C1 for RWD and C5 for AWD.

I use C1 and a Fuse Tap for my Radar detector wiring - works great.

 

Thanks

My 2009 is a RWD - so, the target in green "C1" should be live with the ignition "on" and "off" when the car is turned off.

 

Here's where I took mine from.

 

Yes, unlike the "4S" in keninirvine's pic - which has something odd looking in C1....reckon that's why you can't use C1 one on a "4".

 

Suggest you try an old electrician's trick. Get a multimeter and a straight pin. Remove the circuit box from the wall and go in behind it. Start to measure voltage on lines that you can easily tap off. Ensure that you go with a switched line--and avoid all the yellow ones! (They are to the airbags and can be a BIG deal).

Push the straight pin through the insulation and measure your voltage. Then you know if that line will be useful to you or not.

 

I found this from a 997.1. Don't know what it means. Prolly a V1. Might provide a clue forya.

 

here is where my sport exhaust is wired.
09 C2S PDK
http://s228.photobucket.com/albums/e...t=IMG_0089.jpg

 

Exactly. It's for the all wheel drive control unit. C1 works great as a power source on RWD cars, though; it's what I used.

 

Also recommend against anything that looks like cuts and jumpers. It WILL affect your resaleability. (I know I would not buy a car with a kludged wiring job).

 

That's why I suggested the Fuse Tap - looks like a fuse basically and can be cleanly removed later with no trace. No fuss, mo muss.

 

I used a piggy back connector with a spare fuse in C1. Not quite as elegant as Fuse Tap but same principal and can be removed without a trace as well.

 

Actually, that odd looking connection in my C1 position was for my radar detector. The spade tip plugged into the empty connector quite conveniently. Of course, there was an in-line fuse on that wire. Not an ideal arrangement I know, but it performed well for 18 months until I removed it when I sold the car last month.

 

I wasn't speaking about your connector, but I should have been more specific in my post. According to the legend that came in the fuse box on my car, location C1 is in fact reserved for the all wheel drive control unit fuse for the 997 Turbo only. Guess that's why it was available for use both in my C2 and your C4.

 

The AWD on my 07 Targa didn't have the electronic control for the AWD. That was introduced on the 09 model TTs.