Powerlet Socket Location for Battery Tender
#16
Instructor
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: DC Metro Area
Posts: 133
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Thats a good idea, will look into that. Just FYI, here is an actual picture of the socket.
If you search here (and on 6Speed and Renntech) for installation of remote radar/laser detectors (like the k40), you'll find some threads with pics of the car with the bumpers off. That may help -- I think there is enough room for a third radiator back there (think turbo), but I'm not really sure about the configuration or the dimensions of the part you're putting in.
#17
Drifting
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
There is also a thread on 6speed where "justatoy" wired his battery tender to a plug behind front wheel well. A different approach from yours, but worth considering.
http://www.6speedonline.com/forums/9...-question.html
http://www.6speedonline.com/forums/9...-question.html
#18
Poseur
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I think you will find a clearance issue in that area. Take a look from the top, however. Remove that plastic piece from the opened trunk that surrounds the latch and take a look down inside there.
#19
Race Director
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Just a thought, but instead of the hassle and expense of the parts, labor etc. involved in installing a new socket in the trunk or under the bumper you might consider buying the charger shown below. It's from CTEK, the Swedish company that makes the Porsche charger and it sells for $60 from Amazon. It comes with a "comfort connect" cable that can be left attached to your battery and quickly connected to the charger. There is plenty of room in the battery compartment for this connector to be left permanently attached and out of sight. By the time you've invested in parts and aggravation installing the other connector you could have paid for this instead. Plus you'll have a charger you can use for other batteries and still have your Porsche one as a backup. I actually bought the CTEK charger that's a step up from this one as it offers some additional features but it's the same concept. Anyway, like I said, it's just a thought. ![Wink](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/wink.gif)
http://www.amazon.com/CTEK-Multi-Sma...xgy_auto_img_b
![Wink](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/wink.gif)
http://www.amazon.com/CTEK-Multi-Sma...xgy_auto_img_b
Last edited by Mike in CA; 01-01-2010 at 08:03 PM.
#20
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
![thumbup](https://rennlist.com/forums/graemlins/thumbup.gif)
Also, here's a small point but could be important. I always like to do mods and have them look as "factory perfect" as possible. Don't be afraid to put lots of cable ties or plastic wire wraps or conduits in your project. Frayed wire might be a problem but looking good is nice too.
Stuff like this and similar at radio shack:
#21
Instructor
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: DC Metro Area
Posts: 133
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Gentlemen, can't thank everyone enough for the info and ideas. I ended up finding that the whole section below the actual metal bumper is pretty much hollow so space is no problem. Ordered my socket so will post up some pics as soon as I get it done, prolly next weekend. Ken, I did speak with justatoy and got some valuable info from him, thanks !!
#22
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Uh Oh.
There's the problem of having the hood unlatched because of the wire lead from the maintainer. An unlatched hood means the trunk light is on. I think it stays on (?!?). You' have to fake latch the latch by pressing it down with a cotter pin tool (or similar). See attached photo FYI. Plus you'd have to remember to unlatch the "latched" latch before really closing and latching the hood. Or you can just close the hood and have the wire temporarily deform the weatherstripping.
![EEK!](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/eek.gif)
#23
Instructor
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: DC Metro Area
Posts: 133
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Yeah by doing it my way u never have to open ur hood since there will be a stealth plug down low in the front bumper area that u just plug into.
Uh Oh.
There's the problem of having the hood unlatched because of the wire lead from the maintainer. An unlatched hood means the trunk light is on. I think it stays on (?!?). You' have to fake latch the latch by pressing it down with a cotter pin tool (or similar). See attached photo FYI. Plus you'd have to remember to unlatch the "latched" latch before really closing and latching the hood. Or you can just close the hood and have the wire temporarily deform the weatherstripping.
![EEK!](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/eek.gif)
#24
#25
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Do you have a sunroof? You might be able to attach the tender near your garage door opener and let the cord hang down. This would prevent putting any more holes in your car.
I had a situation where my batter died and couldn't get the trunk open to get at the battery. I don't have an extra battery sitting around to give the fuse panel a jolt. Luckily after 15-20 minutes the battery got enough juice on its own to open the trunk so I could put the batter tender on. I wound up buying the lighter plug and putting it across the floor.
I had a situation where my batter died and couldn't get the trunk open to get at the battery. I don't have an extra battery sitting around to give the fuse panel a jolt. Luckily after 15-20 minutes the battery got enough juice on its own to open the trunk so I could put the batter tender on. I wound up buying the lighter plug and putting it across the floor.
#26
Race Director
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Uh Oh.
There's the problem of having the hood unlatched because of the wire lead from the maintainer. An unlatched hood means the trunk light is on. I think it stays on (?!?). You' have to fake latch the latch by pressing it down with a cotter pin tool (or similar). See attached photo FYI. Plus you'd have to remember to unlatch the "latched" latch before really closing and latching the hood. Or you can just close the hood and have the wire temporarily deform the weatherstripping.
![EEK!](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/eek.gif)