How to retrofit a 996 hardtop to fit a 997
11-27-2017, 05:29 PM
#121
Burning Brakes
Another successful 996 hardtop install onto my 997.1
Couple comments to help those looking to do this in the future.
-Can confirm you will need 2x 900.378.173.09. This is one of the four bolts per side that attach the anchor point into the car. The spacer already in there has three of these already there for each side.
-I found the bayonet style hardtop in my color locally so went with it. Got the anchors to match from LAPD. There is talk about the newer screw style being better but I'm not sure how. I read about it being tightened too far and scratching the car. With the bayonet type you use a standard alan key and there is an audible click and stop when its locked tight. I did verify that all the rubber pads on the bottom of the hardtop looked to be in place before I put it on.
-By far the hardest part was plugging in the power for the defroster. My hands were too big to get down there to work so I had to have my wife do it. Still took her awhile.
-I sprayed a dry lubricant onto all the points that would rub and so far its quiet.
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Couple comments to help those looking to do this in the future.
-Can confirm you will need 2x 900.378.173.09. This is one of the four bolts per side that attach the anchor point into the car. The spacer already in there has three of these already there for each side.
-I found the bayonet style hardtop in my color locally so went with it. Got the anchors to match from LAPD. There is talk about the newer screw style being better but I'm not sure how. I read about it being tightened too far and scratching the car. With the bayonet type you use a standard alan key and there is an audible click and stop when its locked tight. I did verify that all the rubber pads on the bottom of the hardtop looked to be in place before I put it on.
-By far the hardest part was plugging in the power for the defroster. My hands were too big to get down there to work so I had to have my wife do it. Still took her awhile.
-I sprayed a dry lubricant onto all the points that would rub and so far its quiet.
http://
http://
http://
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kincedn9 (10-27-2020)
05-25-2018, 03:52 PM
#123
Thanks to the information in this thread, I bought a Arctic Silver hardtop last spring. It was sitting in a corner on a rolling stand at the dealership's parts department with a $1000 price on it.
After seeing it several months, I offered them $600 and they took it. My mistake was that I glanced at the mounting posts and determined that they were bayonets, so I bought bayonet mounting blocks for $100 from a dismantler.
Oops -- I got that wrong! The top had screw-type mounting posts.
Luckily, I have a small lathe, so it wasn't too big a job to turn up some adapter sleeves and thread them M10 for the screw mounting posts. I made them with an interference fit, so they had to be gently tapped into the bayonet holes and secured with Loctite. (photo)
I finally put the top on Saturday (fall ritual) and the adapters work perfectly as far as I can tell. The top is tight with no leaks or whistles. Now I have to get it painted black to match the car....
After seeing it several months, I offered them $600 and they took it. My mistake was that I glanced at the mounting posts and determined that they were bayonets, so I bought bayonet mounting blocks for $100 from a dismantler.
Oops -- I got that wrong! The top had screw-type mounting posts.
Luckily, I have a small lathe, so it wasn't too big a job to turn up some adapter sleeves and thread them M10 for the screw mounting posts. I made them with an interference fit, so they had to be gently tapped into the bayonet holes and secured with Loctite. (photo)
I finally put the top on Saturday (fall ritual) and the adapters work perfectly as far as I can tell. The top is tight with no leaks or whistles. Now I have to get it painted black to match the car....
07-07-2018, 07:10 PM
#124
This thread is great. I've just purchased a 997 Cab and started my research on getting a top for winter driving. This page stopped me from jumping on the first top I found and now understand enough to make a better informed decision. I almost drove 1.5 hours and would have found out I don't have the brackets and it's the "wrong" latch type. At least now I can more confidently purchase something.
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kincedn9 (10-27-2020)
06-24-2019, 12:35 AM
#126
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The hardtop weighs around 70 pounds, so it's a two-person job, unless you have the hoist. Once the mounting hardware is installed in your car, attaching or detaching is very simple -- just a twist of a lever or tightening a couple of bolts (depending on whether you have the early or late mounting hardware).
06-24-2019, 02:33 PM
#127
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To remove the top requires loosening the two rear (left and right) allen head screws. (I use a torque wrench set at the proper torque, which has an allen socket on the end) Once these are loose then unlatch
front middle connector. Simple
10-28-2019, 08:13 PM
#128
Rennlist Member
Great thread! I have an ‘03 996 cabriolet and just bought a hardtop on eBay and got it last Thursday, and it already has the screw mounts in the top. ..my car has the old bayonet receivers in my car, so the seller had a set of mounts he could send me. Great, not so great...I got the lower bayonet receivers. So where do I get the lower screw in receivers and part #’s without paying an arm and a leg and a couple of teeth?? I’m in the DFW area and am having a difficult time finding the lower receivers(even used out of a dismanteler). Can you help me please. I’m 79 and not to good at finding these parts. Thanks.
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kincedn9 (10-27-2020)
10-27-2020, 11:39 AM
#129
Rennlist Member
document protected! want to print it out
The rubbing was due to my error (ignorance) in messing with the height already set from factory with locking nuts. You are correct that the proper procedure would be to install new hardware on top first and leave the three top bolts loose until you can "position into place" while the top is ON the car.
As you are looking to get a hardtop primarily because of necessary for track usage, my opinion would be the stay with the bayonet mounting hardware. (make sure your cab has appropriate receiving hardware installed (my 07 997 C4S had nothing). If your intent was more for daily driving, I would recommend changing to Screw style hardware (get kit as it's cheaper than a-la-cart ) as it eliminates rattling and various noises.
Here is the Retro fit Kit part number & Description:
000.043.300.46 New/modification kit for hardtop locking element
I'm including the Porsche Tech Doc for the Retro kit, read it at least 10 times! BTW kit also comes with new hardtop tool (in black).
Cheers!
As you are looking to get a hardtop primarily because of necessary for track usage, my opinion would be the stay with the bayonet mounting hardware. (make sure your cab has appropriate receiving hardware installed (my 07 997 C4S had nothing). If your intent was more for daily driving, I would recommend changing to Screw style hardware (get kit as it's cheaper than a-la-cart ) as it eliminates rattling and various noises.
Here is the Retro fit Kit part number & Description:
000.043.300.46 New/modification kit for hardtop locking element
I'm including the Porsche Tech Doc for the Retro kit, read it at least 10 times! BTW kit also comes with new hardtop tool (in black).
Cheers!
03-11-2022, 11:48 AM
#132
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Search my posts on this thread. I believe Ilisted the part numbers when I switched my hard top for a 996 onto a 997. This was back in 2011. They are probably only available through a dealer
03-12-2022, 07:04 AM
#133
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03-12-2022, 08:32 AM
#134
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