How to retrofit a 996 hardtop to fit a 997
#16
Poseur
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
If you lift these tops straight up with a power assist there is no chance of such damage. It appears however that something was rubbing the whole time it was on the car. There are a couple of rubber cushions in the back that prevent that.
#17
Rennlist Member
The top had seemed to be siting on the rear seals correctly but wondering if my retro fitted screw type mounting hardware is what has created the clearance issue...
#18
Drifting
#19
Rennlist Member
Possibly. I used a socket wrench to tighten screws. Going to do a test today using tool provided and "hand tighten". Thought I'd mark underside of were top was rubbing with some thing (lipstick/etc but can be easily cleaned off) then put the top back on, "hand tighten" go run a few errands, then take the top off and is if there is any "transfer" onto body.
I want to get hardtop issue resolved BEFORE having damaged area repainted.
I want to get hardtop issue resolved BEFORE having damaged area repainted.
#20
Poseur
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
You have to be missing some cushions for that sort of damage to occur. The spec on the allens is 34 lbs of torque. No way even over torquing that you will get such a result.
#21
Rennlist Member
Ok, Figured out what I did wrong that caused this...
As I mentioned I retro fitted my top from Bayonet Style hardware to Screw Style. The Screw (Much like the Bayonet) has a nut below and above the bracket to allow for height/angel adjustments. When I installed them I set the "Shaft" (section the threaded lock down screw slides up/down in) too "high" above the bracket that keeps it in place with the two opposing nuts. In doing so and tightening top down (even w/ 34lbs of torque) it pulled the hardtop down and lessened the clearance and caused the parts to rub.
To correct it:
1) I completely loosened the rear of the top so it was just "seated" but not threaded into position.
2) Had my Wife w/ flashing monitor under rear outside of hardtop to ensure as I adjusted the two locking nuts the clearance was not impacted. (Both sides were done at same time, each with minor adjustments done at a time).
3) Took top off and used a colored wax like crayon (from kidos art kit) to mark areas under hartop that previously were touching body. (You'll see why shorthly).
4) Put top back on & tightened everything down. (Checked clearance again (no change from last adjustment, good deal! Time for test drive).
5) Ran a few errands & took the most bumpy hilly angled roads I knew. And returned how 1.5hr later.
6) Checked clearance with flashlight from outside looking under "lip" of rear on hardtop. So far no change and not touching.
7) removed hardtop & Vola! No Colored WAXY transference on body. Which indicated not evn during potholes & bumpy road did hardtop touch at all.
Now off to paint shop next week. And time to put the hardtop up for the season using my new (second hard) STo' Away hardtop hoist.
Hope my experience saves someone else the aggravation.
Cheers and thanks for the input.
As I mentioned I retro fitted my top from Bayonet Style hardware to Screw Style. The Screw (Much like the Bayonet) has a nut below and above the bracket to allow for height/angel adjustments. When I installed them I set the "Shaft" (section the threaded lock down screw slides up/down in) too "high" above the bracket that keeps it in place with the two opposing nuts. In doing so and tightening top down (even w/ 34lbs of torque) it pulled the hardtop down and lessened the clearance and caused the parts to rub.
To correct it:
1) I completely loosened the rear of the top so it was just "seated" but not threaded into position.
2) Had my Wife w/ flashing monitor under rear outside of hardtop to ensure as I adjusted the two locking nuts the clearance was not impacted. (Both sides were done at same time, each with minor adjustments done at a time).
3) Took top off and used a colored wax like crayon (from kidos art kit) to mark areas under hartop that previously were touching body. (You'll see why shorthly).
4) Put top back on & tightened everything down. (Checked clearance again (no change from last adjustment, good deal! Time for test drive).
5) Ran a few errands & took the most bumpy hilly angled roads I knew. And returned how 1.5hr later.
6) Checked clearance with flashlight from outside looking under "lip" of rear on hardtop. So far no change and not touching.
7) removed hardtop & Vola! No Colored WAXY transference on body. Which indicated not evn during potholes & bumpy road did hardtop touch at all.
Now off to paint shop next week. And time to put the hardtop up for the season using my new (second hard) STo' Away hardtop hoist.
Hope my experience saves someone else the aggravation.
Cheers and thanks for the input.
#22
Drifting
So these two locking nuts can be adjusted while the top is in place?
So was it rubbing the car because it was too tight so to speak, or too loose?
I have to get a hardtop for the track. Do you think I should go with this kit or use the old style bracket? Is there that much of a difference? I am concerned that I won't put it on right.
I called Park place Porsche yesterday to ask about the kit. I didn't have the part# and the guys had no idea about any kit. Did you speak with someone or do it over the web?
Thanks,
Neil
So was it rubbing the car because it was too tight so to speak, or too loose?
I have to get a hardtop for the track. Do you think I should go with this kit or use the old style bracket? Is there that much of a difference? I am concerned that I won't put it on right.
I called Park place Porsche yesterday to ask about the kit. I didn't have the part# and the guys had no idea about any kit. Did you speak with someone or do it over the web?
Thanks,
Neil
#23
Rennlist Member
So these two locking nuts can be adjusted while the top is in place?
So was it rubbing the car because it was too tight so to speak, or too loose?
I have to get a hardtop for the track. Do you think I should go with this kit or use the old style bracket? Is there that much of a difference? I am concerned that I won't put it on right.
I called Park place Porsche yesterday to ask about the kit. I didn't have the part# and the guys had no idea about any kit. Did you speak with someone or do it over the web?
Thanks,
Neil
So was it rubbing the car because it was too tight so to speak, or too loose?
I have to get a hardtop for the track. Do you think I should go with this kit or use the old style bracket? Is there that much of a difference? I am concerned that I won't put it on right.
I called Park place Porsche yesterday to ask about the kit. I didn't have the part# and the guys had no idea about any kit. Did you speak with someone or do it over the web?
Thanks,
Neil
As you are looking to get a hardtop primarily because of necessary for track usage, my opinion would be the stay with the bayonet mounting hardware. (make sure your cab has appropriate receiving hardware installed (my 07 997 C4S had nothing). If your intent was more for daily driving, I would recommend changing to Screw style hardware (get kit as it's cheaper than a-la-cart ) as it eliminates rattling and various noises.
Here is the Retro fit Kit part number & Description:
000.043.300.46 New/modification kit for hardtop locking element
I'm including the Porsche Tech Doc for the Retro kit, read it at least 10 times! BTW kit also comes with new hardtop tool (in black).
Cheers!
#26
Rennlist Member
Ok, Picked the P-car up from the paint/body shop and they did a fantastic job! If anyone in N.Texas area needs their services, I high recommend them.
http://dallasroadster.ebizautos.com/...collision.aspx
http://dallasroadster.ebizautos.com/...collision.aspx
#27
Drifting
Ok,
I put the parts in the car. A little pita, especially that plug which is kind of hard to reach. I went with the retrofit kit. I still have to get the top back from painting and put the parts on that. Track this weekend.
I put the parts in the car. A little pita, especially that plug which is kind of hard to reach. I went with the retrofit kit. I still have to get the top back from painting and put the parts on that. Track this weekend.
#28
Rennlist Member
Neil,
Incase your interested here's a post on a Hardtop stand I made out of PVC that has been working out great.
https://rennlist.com/forums/997-foru...nder-60-a.html
Incase your interested here's a post on a Hardtop stand I made out of PVC that has been working out great.
https://rennlist.com/forums/997-foru...nder-60-a.html
#29
Drifting
That stand looks nice, but I don't have the room for that. I have it suspended above the hood when not in use.
I have the hardtop on now in prep for my weekend at the track. I am nervous that it is too tight and is going to rub and scratch my car. I went to use a torque wrench to tighten it down but feel it pulls the top too close to the car. I still feel it might scratch the car( if it hasn't already). How close would you say in inches it is across the back and on the sides near where the window is. It seems that there is a larger gap on the sides which I know is normal. I guess I could loosen the large bolts on the pins and raise the whole thing. So far I have left those bolts the way they where set from the factory. Any suggestions?
Thanks,
Neil
I have the hardtop on now in prep for my weekend at the track. I am nervous that it is too tight and is going to rub and scratch my car. I went to use a torque wrench to tighten it down but feel it pulls the top too close to the car. I still feel it might scratch the car( if it hasn't already). How close would you say in inches it is across the back and on the sides near where the window is. It seems that there is a larger gap on the sides which I know is normal. I guess I could loosen the large bolts on the pins and raise the whole thing. So far I have left those bolts the way they where set from the factory. Any suggestions?
Thanks,
Neil