Several times a year the question comes up about how to avoid drilling into the paintwork on the noses of the 997/996 cars. I came up with another solution some time ago but never took any good shots of it to share herein.

If you have an X51 car or a Tiptronic car you may chose to ignore this post, as my plate placement is over that central opening. (I suspect it's not really an issue unless you live in pretty hot areas).

I began by taking the central filler panel, removed from the from bumper, and drilled four holes in the top part of it. To give myself a stout mounting point, I went with some heavy-duty stainless steel bolts. They are backed up with stainless steel fender washers to provide the necessary strength. I then put on a nut (with another wash) to make that bolt assembly fixed in its position.

With another nut and washer, I mount a simple gate hinge,--you'll have to play around with your local hardware store selection to get the right size. (If necessary I can measure that stuff if anyone is truly interested). One side of the hinge gets bolted to the assembly that is sticking down from the top of the central opening. The other end is allowed to flop around. Take and drill a small hole in that hinge making sure that you also thread it.

Paint all that stuff with flat black or semigloss Krylon.

With a standard 997 front plate backing plate (plastic), mount THAT to the hinge pieces, using a small fastener. I happened to use small allen head fasteners which recess well into the plate backing plate. Now you simply attach the plate in the usual fashion.

 

Very nice - much better than poking holes in the front

 

Here is a pic of mine installaton based on the towing hook solution posted by others before. I found it looks OK and easily removeable. Also take no time to install.

Steven

 

Which plate cover do you have?

 

or move to state that doesnt need one :-D

 

I've got the kit, including the plate holder from stumberger_r@msn.com. In front of that just used a standard Porsche OEM plate cover.

Steven

 

smart solution

 

Make it plumb. Use less clunky hardware by bending or welding a bracket using the vertically drilled holes. IMO, of course.

 

Nice work. Looks like you could hang a door on those hinges.

 

Actually, with the proper offset, I plan to use that design as a passive laser break-lock device. When I get my first alert on the Valentine 1 that I'm being lasered, I hit the brakes. The bottom of the plate rotates upward, and breaks lock on the laser. If they pull you over they don't see anything unusual (like a laser jammer).

 

I leave the front plate off. When I get a fix-it ticket, I mount the plate using velcro. Once I have an officer sign off, then I remove the plate and velcro. Where I live, It's usually good for another year or so til the next ticket, sometimes longer. On my 2006 IS 350, I only got a ticket once in 3 years.

RPM
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Current
2009 C4S/PDK
2008 Toyota Highlander Hybrid
2005 Lexus SC430
2004 GMC Sierra Z71
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Sold
2006 Lexus IS 350
2004 MBZ SLK 320
2000 Lexus GS 400
1994 Lexus ES 300

 

Sounds good in theory. Would be great if true. Problems with it are laser, of course, works at speed of light and if the laser hits your visor-mounted V1, it probably has nothing to do with the plate since the "panel" of emitted laser light which measures your speed is rather small (probably can't hit V1 AND plate).

Please inform me if wrong but, the only effective Laser countermeasure requires installing a jammer TODAY.

 

...and sadly, laser jammers are routinely illegal in many states.

I'm thinking we need to go on the offensive. Perhaps once I get RAW gear installed I can put in some Sidewinders...

 

i love that one edgy - i am thinking about something similar but bolts under the valance - i like that though, it reminds me of what i did with my GTS plate - looks similar.

 

For Gods sake ... get a proper mounting bracket ... OR live dangerously and lose the front plate...