Serpentine Belt Failure
#48
Poseur
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Thread Starter
#49
Drifting
Finally, there is the revised motor,--the Direct Injection motor (MY09 - ) As you can see, Porsche has re-engineered the entire serpentine belt routing and tensioning system. This is rather curious as the design prior to MY09 had been around since MY99,--why change a good thing? Note the single tensioner pulley with no idler pulleys. The tensioner pulley appears to have some sore of hydraulic devise keeping it under tension. (It looks a LOT like an old style chain tensioner (if you're old enough to remember), only larger). Now missing a 24mm head to receive a socket on the pulley itself, you can see that Porsche has put that 24mm head onto the assembly between the yellow and red arrows.
As far down as that belt goes, I'm wondering how one gets it all in place and is there enough room for my big fat arm.
#50
Nordschleife Master
The DFI 9A1 engines are too new to require a serpentine belt, although there are several 50k+ mile engines out there. The layout of the belt is cleaner (less contorted) than the M96/M97 design.
#51
My brother in law is in the business and attributes serpentine belt failures to three possibilities:
(1) out of alignment pulley - can cause the belt to wear on one edge or the other.
(2) an accessory is dragging, putting an additional load upon the belt, which should be essentially free-wheeling with the engine.
(3) tensioner tension may be too tight. If the tensioner (GREEN) is placing too much tension on the entire system it may be causing the premature wear of itself and the other (YELLOW) pulleys. (All the other pulleys are metal).
(1) out of alignment pulley - can cause the belt to wear on one edge or the other.
(2) an accessory is dragging, putting an additional load upon the belt, which should be essentially free-wheeling with the engine.
(3) tensioner tension may be too tight. If the tensioner (GREEN) is placing too much tension on the entire system it may be causing the premature wear of itself and the other (YELLOW) pulleys. (All the other pulleys are metal).
(4) Some dumbass (me) leaves a roll of electrical tape in the engine compartment which falls into the gap where the crank pulley takes up the belt, mangling it.
Oh by the way, that also turns the electrical tape into confetti, and do you know what tape does? It sticks to EVERYTHING. D:
#52
Has anyone out there changed a 997.2 belt as yet? A DIY on Renntech mentions that you need to remove the rear bumper cover to gain access. I'm not too thrilled about that.
http://www.renntech.org/forums/tutor...-polyrib-belt/
http://www.renntech.org/forums/tutor...-polyrib-belt/
#53
Has anyone out there changed a 997.2 belt as yet? A DIY on Renntech mentions that you need to remove the rear bumper cover to gain access. I'm not too thrilled about that.
http://www.renntech.org/forums/tutor...-polyrib-belt/
http://www.renntech.org/forums/tutor...-polyrib-belt/
#54
Drifting
If the belt is attached to an accessory that has a wheel, the accessory MUST be putting drag on the engine via the belt. That's why the belt is there, to transmit power from the engine to accessories.
If the accessory just spins freely then its not doing any work at all and serves no purpose being there. Physics tells us so.
Now a malfunctioning accessory could be putting more than its allotted drag on the system - I suspect that is what you are referring to.
#55
Rennlist Member
By the way. For you clean freaks. You don't want to look behind the license plate. As you can see, it's dirty-ish. I admit it. I just put the plate back on satisfied that I know it's dirty back there
#56
In that DIY he does remove the bumper. However, in the AllData manual, it sez to remove the license plate to access an opening behind the plate through which you can remove the 16mm bolt. For fun I removed my license plate and there was the second hole for accessing the bolt. The one to the right is for the tow eye.
By the way. For you clean freaks. You don't want to look behind the license plate. As you can see, it's dirty-ish. I admit it. I just put the plate back on satisfied that I know it's dirty back there
By the way. For you clean freaks. You don't want to look behind the license plate. As you can see, it's dirty-ish. I admit it. I just put the plate back on satisfied that I know it's dirty back there
#57
Nordschleife Master
I assumed it was the power steering pump, so I started to do a little research on here. When I went to check the PS Fluid, I noticed an open pulley, so I looked around a bit more and I can see my serpentine belt. I haven't pulled on it to see if it totally failed or just slipped off.
I see Edgy's instructions, and I know he says it can be done on the roadside, but looking at the engine compartment, I struggle to see how I can make it work. I change my own oil and my own brakes, so I'm not completely incompetent mechanically (just largely). Should I try to put it on myself or should I just have it towed to the shop?
I can leave here until this weekend and get the right tools from home and try it over the weekend. Any Chicago guys with the requisite experience, there's dinner/beer in it for you if you can help me out.
#59
In that DIY he does remove the bumper. However, in the AllData manual, it sez to remove the license plate to access an opening behind the plate through which you can remove the 16mm bolt. For fun I removed my license plate and there was the second hole for accessing the bolt. The one to the right is for the tow eye.
By the way. For you clean freaks. You don't want to look behind the license plate. As you can see, it's dirty-ish. I admit it. I just put the plate back on satisfied that I know it's dirty back there
By the way. For you clean freaks. You don't want to look behind the license plate. As you can see, it's dirty-ish. I admit it. I just put the plate back on satisfied that I know it's dirty back there
#60
Addict
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