Clutch is making a moaning/slipping noise when starting uphill
#1
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Clutch is making a moaning/slipping noise when starting uphill
My 2006 C2 is making a slipping noise when starting uphill, and I have a few questions:
1) what stupid thing have I done to cause this?
2) what parts need to be replaced? how much should the repair cost?
3) does the engine need to be dropped in order to work on the clutch?
4) the car will be three years old in about 5 weeks, will warranty cover it? if I caused the problem because of lousy shift technique, is it fair of me to even ask for warranty coverage?
Thanks!
1) what stupid thing have I done to cause this?
2) what parts need to be replaced? how much should the repair cost?
3) does the engine need to be dropped in order to work on the clutch?
4) the car will be three years old in about 5 weeks, will warranty cover it? if I caused the problem because of lousy shift technique, is it fair of me to even ask for warranty coverage?
Thanks!
#2
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The clutch is considered a "wear item" just like brakes, tires and belts and is not covered under warranty, UNLESS there is a defect in either the material or the installation workmanship, which is extremely rare.
Perform this test: Drive at about 30 MPH and then shift to 4th gear and accelerate. If the tach needle shows increased RPMs but there is a minimal increase in speed, then the clutch is slipping and will need to be replaced.
If you are really "lucky" (in this case), maybe your RMS is weeping and they would have to replace it under warranty. Then all you would pay for is the clutch parts, because the labor would be covered under the RMS replacement.
Perform this test: Drive at about 30 MPH and then shift to 4th gear and accelerate. If the tach needle shows increased RPMs but there is a minimal increase in speed, then the clutch is slipping and will need to be replaced.
If you are really "lucky" (in this case), maybe your RMS is weeping and they would have to replace it under warranty. Then all you would pay for is the clutch parts, because the labor would be covered under the RMS replacement.
#3
Three Wheelin'
+1 above.
Speaking academically only , I was shown another way using the emergency brake - Set the EB, start the engine, put the car in 5th or 6th gear, then try to drive the vehicle forward by slowly releasing the clutch pedal. If in good shape, the clutch should lock up and immediately stall the engine. If in bad shape (failing), the engine will run with the clutch pedal fully released. If worn but not failing, the engine will run a short time before stalling (ie not immediately).
Be careful messing around with these tests tho as you can cause a lot of collateral damage (flywheel, etc) if you let the clutch slip too long (over a second or two) and get it too hot. If not comfortable, maybe run it by a trusted mechanic?
Speaking academically only , I was shown another way using the emergency brake - Set the EB, start the engine, put the car in 5th or 6th gear, then try to drive the vehicle forward by slowly releasing the clutch pedal. If in good shape, the clutch should lock up and immediately stall the engine. If in bad shape (failing), the engine will run with the clutch pedal fully released. If worn but not failing, the engine will run a short time before stalling (ie not immediately).
Be careful messing around with these tests tho as you can cause a lot of collateral damage (flywheel, etc) if you let the clutch slip too long (over a second or two) and get it too hot. If not comfortable, maybe run it by a trusted mechanic?
#4
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When my clutch let go on G50 it was because it had a good long life.
It will get progressively worse, from a chatter to loosing grip totally. You could but should not drive it but to a Porsche shop so as to not press your luck in how many thousand you will drop.
The motor not difficult to remove and R&R the clutch is doable one or two guys easy. The clutch parts include the clutch pressure plate, and clutch disc. Several hundred dollars is all. The fly wheel may be good. It is like another 911. The parts are easy to find for special clutches and an option. There is more than first stage products. Will we look back in ten years at "old disc style"? At the track isn't it a big issue?
Goodluck.
Regards,
It will get progressively worse, from a chatter to loosing grip totally. You could but should not drive it but to a Porsche shop so as to not press your luck in how many thousand you will drop.
The motor not difficult to remove and R&R the clutch is doable one or two guys easy. The clutch parts include the clutch pressure plate, and clutch disc. Several hundred dollars is all. The fly wheel may be good. It is like another 911. The parts are easy to find for special clutches and an option. There is more than first stage products. Will we look back in ten years at "old disc style"? At the track isn't it a big issue?
Goodluck.
Regards,
#5
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Thread Starter
reply to goto911's test
Tried the 30mph shift to 4th gear and accelerate test. With my car rpm and speed built up in a slow and linear fashion. Revs did not increase dramatically without an increse in speed.
So if the clutch is OK, wonder what the "moaning" noise could be.
So if the clutch is OK, wonder what the "moaning" noise could be.
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#9
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I freely admit that that this is my 1st manual transmission. After reading Rennlist postings for about a year before buying the car new in '06, I decided to shun Tip and go 6-speed. There were many times during the first 10,000 miles where I regretted the decision, but still looked forward to driving the car. Now at 12,000 miles I'd rate myself as a B- in the shift department. Bottom line is just like everyone says, manual is more involving and therefore more fun (although a pain in the *** sometimes on short errand runs). I've driven the PDK and like that as well, but given the choice I'd still go manual (would love to have both but that seems pretty excessive in this economy - not to mention the possibility of divorce or worse).
Will make an appointment with my service dept. to see what havoc a 1st time manual driver has done to the clutch.
Will make an appointment with my service dept. to see what havoc a 1st time manual driver has done to the clutch.
#10
I have similar issues with my '06 C2S (only in 1st gear or in reverse, when the car is well warmed up). Clutch is solid - plenty of life left in it. So far, I have left the car twice at the dealership specifically to address the moaning noise - 0 results. The first time they said they couldn't hear anything. The second time I drove the car with the tech riding in the passanger seat and demonstrated the "moaning" sound when letting go of the clutch. They kept the car for a week. Said the clutch was fine and not to worry about the noise (WTF?). It would be very helpful if someone has already diagnosed this issue. My car is CPO-ed for another year, and I'd rather fix this before CPO expires. Thanks.