Paint Protection Film Removal anyone?
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Paint Protection Film Removal anyone?
Has anyone successfully removed the film from behind the doors / in front of the rear wheels without peeling paint or damaging anything? If so, how? I've searched and read that use of a hair dryer to heat it up and peel it back slowly should work but this was for other manufacturers with (probably) different types of film.
Mine's yellowed with its 3.5 years of age and it looks terrible. FWIW, I won't be replacing it (but I know there are "polar" opinions on this...).
Regards,
Gary.
'05 997 C2 (silver, dirty yellow in parts )
Mine's yellowed with its 3.5 years of age and it looks terrible. FWIW, I won't be replacing it (but I know there are "polar" opinions on this...).
Regards,
Gary.
'05 997 C2 (silver, dirty yellow in parts )
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I hadn't thought of that - I've just acquired the car (privately) and I guess it's out of warranty at 110K Km's ... however I want to go and get an alignment done so will ask then. To be honest though, I really just want the stuff off rather than replaced....
Gary.
Gary.
#5
Drifting
I agree with FriedEgg. One of our Porsche club members does clear bra installations, and he can remove clear bra, including the clear stone guards on the rear fenders. I believe he works an edge and sprays soapy water on the underside as he pulls back. I also believe he said you don't pull up (90 degrees) from surface, but pull directly back (at 180 degrees).
#6
I just had it removed on my '09 C2S. The Clear Bra installer took it off and replaced it with the same clear bra material used on the rest of the car. It looks better than what came from the factory, and he was able to expand the size of the material used on the rear fender to provide greater protection. I did not watch him do it so I have not idea how it was done. The car looks perfect.
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I agree with FriedEgg. One of our Porsche club members does clear bra installations, and he can remove clear bra, including the clear stone guards on the rear fenders. I believe he works an edge and sprays soapy water on the underside as he pulls back. I also believe he said you don't pull up (90 degrees) from surface, but pull directly back (at 180 degrees).
Thanks very much for all the feedback guys and thanks for these hints Ken. May well have a crack at this (assuming no warranty in place) just soon as the weather improves. I've also got my Dr. Colo(u)r Chip kit on the way to touch up a couple of areas on the lower front spoiler ...
Gary.
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#8
Have you tried cleaning up the yellowed plastic? I get a lot of stone chips around the area and would hate to remove it altogether. Plexus does a great job of cleaning and polishing. If the plastic is already too yellow or opaque, I know that Sonus makes a couple of products to polish it out but I've never used them myself. Hope that helps.
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Removal takes a heat gun to loosen the adhesive and film. Once the film is off, a wipedown with 3M adhesive remover or IPA will remove residual adhesive on the paint.
Do not polish it right after using a remover, as it can soften the finish a slight bit, wash the area off first, then polish the area with a mild polish first that has no oils or filler clay (glazes have clay), P21 Paint Cleanser is a very good mild polish. Then, once polished, another wipedown with IPA before a new film is installed to remove any remaining oils or dirt etc. Float on the new film with the soap mix they list and ratio of soap/water(distilled) then using a plastic squeege remove any air bubbles and to finish the install. Let it cure before trying to add wax or sealant for a week.
Regards,
Deanski
Do not polish it right after using a remover, as it can soften the finish a slight bit, wash the area off first, then polish the area with a mild polish first that has no oils or filler clay (glazes have clay), P21 Paint Cleanser is a very good mild polish. Then, once polished, another wipedown with IPA before a new film is installed to remove any remaining oils or dirt etc. Float on the new film with the soap mix they list and ratio of soap/water(distilled) then using a plastic squeege remove any air bubbles and to finish the install. Let it cure before trying to add wax or sealant for a week.
Regards,
Deanski
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Removal takes a heat gun to loosen the adhesive and film. Once the film is off, a wipedown with 3M adhesive remover or IPA will remove residual adhesive on the paint.
Do not polish it right after using a remover, as it can soften the finish a slight bit, wash the area off first, then polish the area with a mild polish first that has no oils or filler clay (glazes have clay), P21 Paint Cleanser is a very good mild polish. Then, once polished, another wipedown with IPA before a new film is installed to remove any remaining oils or dirt etc. Float on the new film with the soap mix they list and ratio of soap/water(distilled) then using a plastic squeege remove any air bubbles and to finish the install. Let it cure before trying to add wax or sealant for a week.
Regards,
Deanski
Do not polish it right after using a remover, as it can soften the finish a slight bit, wash the area off first, then polish the area with a mild polish first that has no oils or filler clay (glazes have clay), P21 Paint Cleanser is a very good mild polish. Then, once polished, another wipedown with IPA before a new film is installed to remove any remaining oils or dirt etc. Float on the new film with the soap mix they list and ratio of soap/water(distilled) then using a plastic squeege remove any air bubbles and to finish the install. Let it cure before trying to add wax or sealant for a week.
Regards,
Deanski
Current thinking is that the plastic won't be replaced but, just in case, I'll save the rest of your text
Regards,
Gary.
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Have you tried cleaning up the yellowed plastic? I get a lot of stone chips around the area and would hate to remove it altogether. Plexus does a great job of cleaning and polishing. If the plastic is already too yellow or opaque, I know that Sonus makes a couple of products to polish it out but I've never used them myself. Hope that helps.
Regards,
Gary.
#12
Drifting
If you're planning to touch up paint under the old material, be careful applying the new material. If the new material is pulled up to re-position, it could lift the touch-up paint with it.
#13
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Had mine replaced under warranty after 3 years and substantial yellowing. Definitely speak to your service rep.....from what I've heard, many will do it under warranty.
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Gary.