RonCT

The twitch was pretty bad and the rear H&R sway was not adjustable. On my "now" GT3, I had to soften up the rear sway to full soft (1 of 3) and the front is on 3 of 5 and the balance is back (rear was on 2 of 3 and it was twitchy, on 1 of 3 it's now nicely planted).

In the end, I liked the original sways and maybe the Damptronics with the OEM sways would have done the trick. Again, with my 997S when I had it, at a 1:05 lap at Lime Rock, no problem, 1:04, was getting twitchy, and at 1:03 I said "uncle" (where with OEM suspension and sway I was at 1:02 and improving).

Bob Rouleau

Ron - I didn't see the alignment settings (sorry) and they may have been perfect when you left the shop but were they still perfect on the track? Do you have proper toe links (Racers Group for example) if not, the toe on the back of a GT3 is very fragile. A couple of good bumps (speed bumps entering the track perhaps?) are enough to knock them out of spec.

The number one reason for instability under braking on a GT3 is improper or, not enough static toe in at the rear. I run 16 mins per side. Tried 10 mins and the car was awful under hard braking.

Hope this helps..

Best,

RonCT

Bob,

Front; Camber -2.3/-2.3, Caster 7.5 / 7.5, Toe 0.04 / 0.04
Rear; Camber -2.1 / -2.1, Toe 0.17 / 0.17

Winter project is new TRG rear toe links. Softening the rear sway helped quite a bit (Front; 3 of 5, Rear; 1 of 3).

Again, as this relates to the OP on the 997S - I found the OEM sways and PASM shocks allowed for a much more stable platform...

mobonic

Awesome.

How would you compare your stock 997S & Stock GT3 on the track??

Also what are the best mods I can make to my 997S to make it better on the track (closer to a GT3).

So far all I have done is:
- Cold Air
- Brake Fluid, Lines, & pads
- GT3 front bumper & wing (on its way!!!!!
- Seat Time & more seat time (1-2 track days per month)

RonCT

mobonic, here's my advice - and I'm going to be brutally Frank with you:

1. Send back the cold air - the car doesn't need it and depending on "what" it is, could cause you problems (ie: If it's an oiled filter, you can foul your MAF, which could be expensive to fix). If it's intake growl you are after, there's an easy way to defeat the baffle in the airbox - not sure how, but I've read about it.

2. Forget the GT3 front and wing - they also don't do anything for the car other than slow it down. Yes, in theory you get more downforce at the back, but it comes at a cost of speed. The car doesn't need any more front work - so the GT3 front end is useless.

3. GT3 front control arms are a must to get the camber.

4. A set of Volks is the most cost effective - my favorite wheel in the price range. Otherwise, Fikse - I have a set of both and like them both just about the same - the Fikse really is a looker. I've run "real" Cups, RA1s, "faux" 19" Cups - and have a set of Hoosiers on the Fikses now I'll try. So far, the RA1s have turned out to be my favorites - pulled something like 1.6 G's lateral cornering - amazing tire when down to about 5/32nds.

5. Get Softronic software from Dan & Scott. You can find the web address by google. Really wakes the car up.

6. Get the X51 headers and some AWE cats, but leave the stock mufflers alone. I tried all combinations and this was the best sounding, least expensive, and felt like the best performing in conjunction with the software.

I've posted my reviews of GT3 vs. 997S before - I don't have them bookmarked, but you can find them easily enough by searching on my name.

mdrums

mobonic, besides seat time at the track you will find your driving improve greatly with a race seat and 6 point harness. You will need a roll bar or harness bar to conect the harness. You will drive more relaxed and thus safer sna dbetter lap times. You will feel the car movment better.