X51 Dyno Run
#1
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X51 Dyno Run
Scheduled for tomorrow morning. Dyno is a Dynapack 4000 which bolts directly to the hubs. Weather will be cool (mid 50's) but rain is expected and barometric pressure will be low.
My intention is to pull:
- twice with everything in the normal position for a baseline reading.
- once with sport button activated
- once with sport button back in normal position but PSE unplugged
- once with sport button activated and PSE unplugged
This should give an interesting view of the X51 output plus the effect of Sport Mode and PSE (closed, open and unplugged).
Car will be running California pump gas and has 34k miles on it. Engine is completely stock.
If I recall correctly, runs should be made in 3rd or 4th gear. Anyone who can chime in on this, please do.
MC
My intention is to pull:
- twice with everything in the normal position for a baseline reading.
- once with sport button activated
- once with sport button back in normal position but PSE unplugged
- once with sport button activated and PSE unplugged
This should give an interesting view of the X51 output plus the effect of Sport Mode and PSE (closed, open and unplugged).
Car will be running California pump gas and has 34k miles on it. Engine is completely stock.
If I recall correctly, runs should be made in 3rd or 4th gear. Anyone who can chime in on this, please do.
MC
#5
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Thread Starter
I'm looking forward to it. I'm blending enough Unocal 100 to get up to 93-94 octane. 4 gallons 100 octane and 12 gallons 91 octane should put me right at 93.25 or so.
Conditions will be 50 degrees and 80% humidity - good cool temp but high humidity. I think the dyno software will adjust for that.
I'll post results tomorrow afternoon.
MC
Conditions will be 50 degrees and 80% humidity - good cool temp but high humidity. I think the dyno software will adjust for that.
I'll post results tomorrow afternoon.
MC
#6
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Looking forward to seeing your results.
#7
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AWE ran my car on a Mustang all wheel dyno. They ran it slow in 1st to 3rd to get the rollers turning, shifted into 4th, let it go to idle & then went to full throttle. The PSM doesn't like the speed difference between front & rear wheels and flashes failure messages for PSM & ABS. 100 feet of normal driving resets them. Suggest turning off the AC compressor(ECO button) for reduced parasitic load.
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#8
Scheduled for tomorrow morning. Dyno is a Dynapack 4000 which bolts directly to the hubs. Weather will be cool (mid 50's) but rain is expected and barometric pressure will be low.
My intention is to pull:
- twice with everything in the normal position for a baseline reading.
- once with sport button activated
- once with sport button back in normal position but PSE unplugged
- once with sport button activated and PSE unplugged
This should give an interesting view of the X51 output plus the effect of Sport Mode and PSE (closed, open and unplugged).
Car will be running California pump gas and has 34k miles on it. Engine is completely stock.
If I recall correctly, runs should be made in 3rd or 4th gear. Anyone who can chime in on this, please do.
MC
My intention is to pull:
- twice with everything in the normal position for a baseline reading.
- once with sport button activated
- once with sport button back in normal position but PSE unplugged
- once with sport button activated and PSE unplugged
This should give an interesting view of the X51 output plus the effect of Sport Mode and PSE (closed, open and unplugged).
Car will be running California pump gas and has 34k miles on it. Engine is completely stock.
If I recall correctly, runs should be made in 3rd or 4th gear. Anyone who can chime in on this, please do.
MC
Dave
#9
AWE ran my car on a Mustang all wheel dyno. They ran it slow in 1st to 3rd to get the rollers turning, shifted into 4th, let it go to idle & then went to full throttle. The PSM doesn't like the speed difference between front & rear wheels and flashes failure messages for PSM & ABS. 100 feet of normal driving resets them. Suggest turning off the AC compressor(ECO button) for reduced parasitic load.
#11
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Can't wait to see the Dyno results - would be curious to see the differnece between 93 (what I was running when the Club Coupe was back in Maryland) and 91 now that the Club Coupe lives here in San Diego.
Hurry up - I'm expecting you to be around 407 horsies!!!
Hurry up - I'm expecting you to be around 407 horsies!!!
#12
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Thread Starter
First things first:
337.6 HP
287.6 TQ
Ok, so the numbers look pretty good but the circumstances were terrible. We are in one of the most violent winter storms I've experienced in N. California. Temperature is about 55 and winds are gusting to 60mph+. While we were testing, part of the roof blew off the building and shattered the rear glass on a car just outside the door. I'm talking really ugly typhoon stuff.
I arrived at the garage, got the car bolted up and ran a baseline run with all settings in normal and PSE plugged in. All runs were made in 5th gear which at 1.08 ratio is the closest to the ideal 1.0 (direct drive) in the tranny. The Dynapack dyno can run well over 150mph (no drum to turn) so it wasn't an issue.
After the first run, the PSM faulted and the ABS faulted and wouldn't let us engage Sport mode or toggle PSM, etc. The faults remained for the rest of the session, preventing any runs in Sport mode which was a big disappointment. The difference with PSE plugged or unplugged appears to be about 3-5HP in favor of unplugged. The tech struggled with the dyno software, settings and printer during the entire session which was not confidence inpiring... I don't think he fully understood how to set the steps and timing of the unit and ultimately gave me the session at no charge.
The last three runs are plotted in the graph below. They represent the best available circumstances - Engine running, throttle floored, PSM/ABS faults lit up, PSE unplugged, rain blowing into the engine comparment through the open garage door, tech seemingly satisfied the dyno was working properly.
Only 2 sets of data are shown on the graph so here are all three:
Run 1: 334.6HP, 281.3TQ
Run 2: 336.9HP, 286.7TQ
Run 3: 337.6HP, 287.6TQ
If I use the 1.16 drivetrain loss factor suggested by Mike at A.W.E., the best engine output is 401.9HP
MC
337.6 HP
287.6 TQ
Ok, so the numbers look pretty good but the circumstances were terrible. We are in one of the most violent winter storms I've experienced in N. California. Temperature is about 55 and winds are gusting to 60mph+. While we were testing, part of the roof blew off the building and shattered the rear glass on a car just outside the door. I'm talking really ugly typhoon stuff.
I arrived at the garage, got the car bolted up and ran a baseline run with all settings in normal and PSE plugged in. All runs were made in 5th gear which at 1.08 ratio is the closest to the ideal 1.0 (direct drive) in the tranny. The Dynapack dyno can run well over 150mph (no drum to turn) so it wasn't an issue.
After the first run, the PSM faulted and the ABS faulted and wouldn't let us engage Sport mode or toggle PSM, etc. The faults remained for the rest of the session, preventing any runs in Sport mode which was a big disappointment. The difference with PSE plugged or unplugged appears to be about 3-5HP in favor of unplugged. The tech struggled with the dyno software, settings and printer during the entire session which was not confidence inpiring... I don't think he fully understood how to set the steps and timing of the unit and ultimately gave me the session at no charge.
The last three runs are plotted in the graph below. They represent the best available circumstances - Engine running, throttle floored, PSM/ABS faults lit up, PSE unplugged, rain blowing into the engine comparment through the open garage door, tech seemingly satisfied the dyno was working properly.
Only 2 sets of data are shown on the graph so here are all three:
Run 1: 334.6HP, 281.3TQ
Run 2: 336.9HP, 286.7TQ
Run 3: 337.6HP, 287.6TQ
If I use the 1.16 drivetrain loss factor suggested by Mike at A.W.E., the best engine output is 401.9HP
MC
Last edited by H20NOO; 01-04-2008 at 07:39 PM.
#13
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Wow - great results! Assuming the 1.16 driveline loss factor (which seems reasonable), that puts you 20+ bhp better than the factory claim. Given all that the kit includes, this seems more credible than the claimed 381 bhp.
But...why would Porsche sandbag? it seems like more people would spring the $16K if they thought that they'd get 400+ bhp in return.
But...why would Porsche sandbag? it seems like more people would spring the $16K if they thought that they'd get 400+ bhp in return.
#14
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Wow - great results! Assuming the 1.16 driveline loss factor (which seems reasonable), that puts you 20+ bhp better than the factory claim. Given all that the kit includes, this seems more credible than the claimed 381 bhp.
But...why would Porsche sandbag? it seems like more people would spring the $16K if they thought that they'd get 400+ bhp in return.
But...why would Porsche sandbag? it seems like more people would spring the $16K if they thought that they'd get 400+ bhp in return.
As for drivetrain losses, I've always used 15% loss. A.W.E. has used 16% for previous comparisons. With 15% loss, the max power was about 397HP.
MC