My Carrara White 997S Was Hit By A Meteor!!!
#33
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Originally Posted by raffi
beautiful car and color, it might just be the lighting but it looks like the ring around the headlight is body color. Is that the way the cars are coming now?
#34
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Originally Posted by 500
the pic was taken at the dealership.
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I hope you give it time for the paint to "relax" since it was wrapped. It needs 24hrs or longer depending on how long it was wrapped and traveled. What happens is moisture gets trapped under the paper wrap. When that happens, it tries to migrate into the paint. So as soon as you release the paper wrap, it has to relax to remove the moisture.
Once that's done, some of the adhesive will remain. You can use 3M Prep-Sol or better yet, ask the dealer what they use to remove the adhesive.
After that, wash, clay and check the finish for any marring and flaws, if so, just a paint cleanser will do.
Then it's your choice, wax or sealant. If your going to wax, use a good glaze to help bring out more gloss (glaze contains oils and some have fillers) to really get it that WOW factor. Glaze like Clearkote Red Moose, Meguiars #7 all are very good glaze prior to wax. #7 cannot dry, it has to skin up, then remove. Too long and it will smear and look awful. Then it's time to wax. Souveran is best for dar colors. Zymol has a few that are also pretty good. P21S is better on lighter colors and light silver metallics.
Then there's sealants. Sealants are more clear, last longer and some are easy to apply, some take more effort. No glaze, just a very clean finish so a sealant can bond. Once on, it's very easy to maintain and to keep it looking as you just did it. There's so many out: Klasse, Werkstatt, Zaino, Duragloss, etc etc. All have a specific way to apply and maintain. Zaino is releasing a clear seal that is a apply and walk away with no removal or buffing. They are also releasing an AIO (All In One) type sealant as well.
Before your glaze or other LSP (Last Step Product) invest in a paint protection film. No, they don't look too good, but a whole lot better than before and even more better than having damage to your paint. HYou can remove the film very easy, but re-painting/touch-up is not as easy.
I did the same thing, but at the dealer prep area. I dropped off Menzerna P085RD polish and assisted and instructed on how to prep my car being black. They really liked the Menzerna that's fore sure as it looked like a black lacquer paino finish when done and no other glaze or sealant was on it.
Enjoy your new toy!!!!!
Regards,
Deanski
Once that's done, some of the adhesive will remain. You can use 3M Prep-Sol or better yet, ask the dealer what they use to remove the adhesive.
After that, wash, clay and check the finish for any marring and flaws, if so, just a paint cleanser will do.
Then it's your choice, wax or sealant. If your going to wax, use a good glaze to help bring out more gloss (glaze contains oils and some have fillers) to really get it that WOW factor. Glaze like Clearkote Red Moose, Meguiars #7 all are very good glaze prior to wax. #7 cannot dry, it has to skin up, then remove. Too long and it will smear and look awful. Then it's time to wax. Souveran is best for dar colors. Zymol has a few that are also pretty good. P21S is better on lighter colors and light silver metallics.
Then there's sealants. Sealants are more clear, last longer and some are easy to apply, some take more effort. No glaze, just a very clean finish so a sealant can bond. Once on, it's very easy to maintain and to keep it looking as you just did it. There's so many out: Klasse, Werkstatt, Zaino, Duragloss, etc etc. All have a specific way to apply and maintain. Zaino is releasing a clear seal that is a apply and walk away with no removal or buffing. They are also releasing an AIO (All In One) type sealant as well.
Before your glaze or other LSP (Last Step Product) invest in a paint protection film. No, they don't look too good, but a whole lot better than before and even more better than having damage to your paint. HYou can remove the film very easy, but re-painting/touch-up is not as easy.
I did the same thing, but at the dealer prep area. I dropped off Menzerna P085RD polish and assisted and instructed on how to prep my car being black. They really liked the Menzerna that's fore sure as it looked like a black lacquer paino finish when done and no other glaze or sealant was on it.
Enjoy your new toy!!!!!
![thumbup](https://rennlist.com/forums/graemlins/thumbup.gif)
Regards,
Deanski
#39
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Originally Posted by Deanski
I hope you give it time for the paint to "relax" since it was wrapped. It needs 24hrs or longer depending on how long it was wrapped and traveled. What happens is moisture gets trapped under the paper wrap. When that happens, it tries to migrate into the paint. So as soon as you release the paper wrap, it has to relax to remove the moisture.
Once that's done, some of the adhesive will remain. You can use 3M Prep-Sol or better yet, ask the dealer what they use to remove the adhesive.
After that, wash, clay and check the finish for any marring and flaws, if so, just a paint cleanser will do.
Then it's your choice, wax or sealant. If your going to wax, use a good glaze to help bring out more gloss (glaze contains oils and some have fillers) to really get it that WOW factor. Glaze like Clearkote Red Moose, Meguiars #7 all are very good glaze prior to wax. #7 cannot dry, it has to skin up, then remove. Too long and it will smear and look awful. Then it's time to wax. Souveran is best for dar colors. Zymol has a few that are also pretty good. P21S is better on lighter colors and light silver metallics.
Then there's sealants. Sealants are more clear, last longer and some are easy to apply, some take more effort. No glaze, just a very clean finish so a sealant can bond. Once on, it's very easy to maintain and to keep it looking as you just did it. There's so many out: Klasse, Werkstatt, Zaino, Duragloss, etc etc. All have a specific way to apply and maintain. Zaino is releasing a clear seal that is a apply and walk away with no removal or buffing. They are also releasing an AIO (All In One) type sealant as well.
Before your glaze or other LSP (Last Step Product) invest in a paint protection film. No, they don't look too good, but a whole lot better than before and even more better than having damage to your paint. HYou can remove the film very easy, but re-painting/touch-up is not as easy.
I did the same thing, but at the dealer prep area. I dropped off Menzerna P085RD polish and assisted and instructed on how to prep my car being black. They really liked the Menzerna that's fore sure as it looked like a black lacquer paino finish when done and no other glaze or sealant was on it.
Enjoy your new toy!!!!!
Regards,
Deanski
Once that's done, some of the adhesive will remain. You can use 3M Prep-Sol or better yet, ask the dealer what they use to remove the adhesive.
After that, wash, clay and check the finish for any marring and flaws, if so, just a paint cleanser will do.
Then it's your choice, wax or sealant. If your going to wax, use a good glaze to help bring out more gloss (glaze contains oils and some have fillers) to really get it that WOW factor. Glaze like Clearkote Red Moose, Meguiars #7 all are very good glaze prior to wax. #7 cannot dry, it has to skin up, then remove. Too long and it will smear and look awful. Then it's time to wax. Souveran is best for dar colors. Zymol has a few that are also pretty good. P21S is better on lighter colors and light silver metallics.
Then there's sealants. Sealants are more clear, last longer and some are easy to apply, some take more effort. No glaze, just a very clean finish so a sealant can bond. Once on, it's very easy to maintain and to keep it looking as you just did it. There's so many out: Klasse, Werkstatt, Zaino, Duragloss, etc etc. All have a specific way to apply and maintain. Zaino is releasing a clear seal that is a apply and walk away with no removal or buffing. They are also releasing an AIO (All In One) type sealant as well.
Before your glaze or other LSP (Last Step Product) invest in a paint protection film. No, they don't look too good, but a whole lot better than before and even more better than having damage to your paint. HYou can remove the film very easy, but re-painting/touch-up is not as easy.
I did the same thing, but at the dealer prep area. I dropped off Menzerna P085RD polish and assisted and instructed on how to prep my car being black. They really liked the Menzerna that's fore sure as it looked like a black lacquer paino finish when done and no other glaze or sealant was on it.
Enjoy your new toy!!!!!
![thumbup](https://rennlist.com/forums/graemlins/thumbup.gif)
Regards,
Deanski
#41
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I brought my C4S home the same way. Told the dealer to check fluids and get that sucker out the door. Spent about 6 hours on it over a weekend. Absolutely flawless paint, even today, nearly 3 years later.
If the dealer cleans your car, you will have the added option at no cost of swirls in your paint, guaranteed.
If the dealer cleans your car, you will have the added option at no cost of swirls in your paint, guaranteed.
__________________
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Chief Plug Guy
BumperPlugs.com
2022 GT3 Touring
2009 997 Turbo Cab
2018 M2 6sp
Gone but not forgotten
2004 C4S Cabriolet
1999 C2 Cab
Eric
Chief Plug Guy
BumperPlugs.com
2022 GT3 Touring
2009 997 Turbo Cab
2018 M2 6sp
Gone but not forgotten
2004 C4S Cabriolet
1999 C2 Cab
#42
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Originally Posted by Eric - Plug Guy
I brought my C4S home the same way. Told the dealer to check fluids and get that sucker out the door. Spent about 6 hours on it over a weekend. Absolutely flawless paint, even today, nearly 3 years later.
If the dealer cleans your car, you will have the added option at no cost of swirls in your paint, guaranteed.
If the dealer cleans your car, you will have the added option at no cost of swirls in your paint, guaranteed.
#43
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For the removal of the wrap, very little adhesive was left on the finish, which after paint rested, used 3M Prep-Sol then washed and clayed the finish.
Menzerna polish was used and it came out perfect. Then, while still at the dealer (did all work there) did the K-40, Sirius via PCM (Cayenne kit), and paint film all done prior to driving off lot.
Worked out very well.
Since the paint as rested, if you have minimal adhesive left, the 3M Prep-Sol works. Just let it do the work, do not rub, wipe off lightly. I used saturated cotton/gauze pads and let them dwell long enough to soften the adhesive, then wipe off and let the paint rest again, then washed and clay, then polished. Came out looking really nice. Then the film went on. After that, sealant went on. Took delivery.
Regards,
Deanski
Menzerna polish was used and it came out perfect. Then, while still at the dealer (did all work there) did the K-40, Sirius via PCM (Cayenne kit), and paint film all done prior to driving off lot.
Worked out very well.
Since the paint as rested, if you have minimal adhesive left, the 3M Prep-Sol works. Just let it do the work, do not rub, wipe off lightly. I used saturated cotton/gauze pads and let them dwell long enough to soften the adhesive, then wipe off and let the paint rest again, then washed and clay, then polished. Came out looking really nice. Then the film went on. After that, sealant went on. Took delivery.
![thumbup](https://rennlist.com/forums/graemlins/thumbup.gif)
Regards,
Deanski
#44
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interesting that the white is said to show blemishes so readily.
Sort of gives insight as to why the white cars, 10-20 years on, always seem more 'beat on'
they aren't, they just show the marks.
Sort of gives insight as to why the white cars, 10-20 years on, always seem more 'beat on'
they aren't, they just show the marks.
#45
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Originally Posted by Deanski
For the removal of the wrap, very little adhesive was left on the finish, which after paint rested, used 3M Prep-Sol then washed and clayed the finish.
Menzerna polish was used and it came out perfect. Then, while still at the dealer (did all work there) did the K-40, Sirius via PCM (Cayenne kit), and paint film all done prior to driving off lot.
Worked out very well.
Since the paint as rested, if you have minimal adhesive left, the 3M Prep-Sol works. Just let it do the work, do not rub, wipe off lightly. I used saturated cotton/gauze pads and let them dwell long enough to soften the adhesive, then wipe off and let the paint rest again, then washed and clay, then polished. Came out looking really nice. Then the film went on. After that, sealant went on. Took delivery.
Regards,
Deanski
Menzerna polish was used and it came out perfect. Then, while still at the dealer (did all work there) did the K-40, Sirius via PCM (Cayenne kit), and paint film all done prior to driving off lot.
Worked out very well.
Since the paint as rested, if you have minimal adhesive left, the 3M Prep-Sol works. Just let it do the work, do not rub, wipe off lightly. I used saturated cotton/gauze pads and let them dwell long enough to soften the adhesive, then wipe off and let the paint rest again, then washed and clay, then polished. Came out looking really nice. Then the film went on. After that, sealant went on. Took delivery.
![thumbup](https://rennlist.com/forums/graemlins/thumbup.gif)
Regards,
Deanski