Stephenkng

Thinking about puting P21S after one or two coats of Griots Best of Show wax. Anyone has done that before and hopefully has pic for the result. Thanks.

raffi

i have never heard of topping one wax off with another for a better effect. why wouldnt you just stick with one type? did you read about this on a detailing forum. maybe the experts here have some advice.
i personally use klasse sealant glaze then top it off with p21s. the p21s has been the best wax for me.

Stephenkng

I have heard the some one put P21S on top of Klasse AIO and the result is greet. That is the reason why I ask.

raffi

you can definitely top off a synthetic sealant (klasse) with a natural wax.
The sealant glaze by klasse can also be applied with multiple coats. it lasts longer than wax and provides more protection, however it lacks depth. this is the reason alot of people apply a wax over the sealant.
there are tons of websites that you can get more detailed info about detailing, but you can follow OCbens guides over here. the klasse and p21s is a very inexpensive and effective detailing method.
prepping the car with a wash, clay and polish must also not be neglected. check ocbens signature if you dont want to search in the auto detailing forums.

Phil G.

I've used both waxes on my cars. Although I like both products, I became a Zaino convert - I think it's easier to apply, more durable, and produces a deeper shine than either of the other waxes. Great line of products.

www.zainobros.com

yemenmocha

It might just be my technique or overuse of the product, but I find Klasse SG to be a royal PITA to remove without streaks on a dark colored paint. In fact it's a pain on my silver car too. Think I might give it away. The AIO is much better to work with.

I've used Souveran on top of AIO and that combo works very well on silver.

Stephenkng

Just get mine done over the weekend with Griots Best of Show wax with great result. It never show that much depth on my Carmon Red. The carnauba base wax dry very quick and it take a little work to remove the wax.

OCBen

Yes, it's your technique. You're not using it right.

See Posts #29, 39 and especially #41 in the second linked thread in my sig.

Stephenkng

OCBen, can't agree more. Spray a little quick detailer also work well too.

Deanski

Funny, many people have done the sealant and top with wax thing so much that Blackfire is coming out with a kit called "Fire and Ice" which is a sealant/wax "kit".

Most sealants due look a bit sterile or plastic looking (Rejex tops the list) and most people still want that deep wet look from a wax. So, after using a sealant, top with a high-grade wax like P21S for light color cars and metallic silvers to make it really POP! Now it will look very deep and wet. But now you have to maintain the wax more often, but if that's what you like doing, then fine.

Zaino has produced a much better line that is getting very close to a wax look. With the new Z5-Pro and Z2-Pro along with Z8, it does start to resemble a wax look. Not quite as deep, but very wet and reflective. It's more pronounced on dark colors, but with metallics done with Zaino, they really POP and glitter like mad!

For dark colored cars, I use Souveran wax for that really deep wet look. To save some cash and for those not quite sure, use Poorboys Natty Blue as it costs quite a bit less and will give almost exactly the same effect. Regular Natty is like a P21S. Or, go to a motorcycle shop and pick-up S100 wax. Same as P21S.

The newer Klasse and some other sealants went through the new laws pertaining to VOC content, so they do not perform like the old. One thing with Klasse or any good sealant.... THIN APPLICATION! To the point where it's hard to see. Too much and it is a PITA to remove, some also smear, haze etc. Then you need to use the QD designed with that sealant to try to flow-out the area where it's too much. If you wipe too hard, say hello to more micro-marring. Sealants are NOT to be applied like a wax. That's mostly everyones first mistake.

For Zaino, mix up some Z7 wash and distilled water and use that if you put too much on and it streaks. Save your Z6/Z8 for what you really need it for.

I top sealants (some commercial ones are really steril/plastic looking) with a wax and hand off a small container of wax along with a mix of a QD spray and MF towels to the customer. They also get a full instruction on how to properly wash/maintain/wax the finish prior to leaving by myself or someone else. For those that really want to learn, they get the start by re-washing the car, drying it, evaluation and QD work while in the bay. It's a long hands-on event. Most don't give a rats *** and will just book another detail.

Wax will last at best 30 days on a finish. After that, they start to degrade and expose a finish to what was under it. Faster if one uses auto car washes or harsh environments/elements.

For more hard-core and people into concours events, get a panel like your cars color and test all subjective wax/sealants or combos on that first. Then have others look at it and get their reaction to what looks deep, wet or reflective etc. It's a whole lot better on that than spending countless hours on your car and still be unhappy with the results.

Regards,
Deanski

raffi

yeah I think for our purpose as "non-professional detailers" the aio is better as a combo cleaner and sealant and easier to work with.
I liked the idea of being able to apply multiple coats of the sg.
I also thought that the sg would be better for a new car which doesnt have much paint flaws.
The guy I ordered the sealant glaze tried very hard to convince me to get the AIO instead, when I finish this bottle I will probably use the aio.
Thanks for directing us to those tips Ben.
I always wondered that since I put so many coats of the sealant glaze that if it is really a big deal that I remove all the streaks (klasse residue) because I will wash it again after letting each coat cure.
And, although it is harder to remove subsequent coats, it seems as though it is easier to apply thin even coats after you have applied the first one.

edit, just noticed your post deanski, thanks for the advice. these are very helpful tips since there are so many detailing products it makes it very confusing. then to make it easier the companies try to make an inferior "combo" product.

Deanski

You're correct that AIO is the first sealant anyone should use in the Klasse line as it "preps" it for the SG. AIO has a very good cleaning ability to it, then when it cures, protects a long time.

That's also why it's difficult to remove the SG, you did not have a base of AIO first. Also, prior to any LSP (last step product) the finish has to be like glass. It has to be clayed, polished then protected, but the beauty of AIO is after claying you could go straight to AIO since it cleans and polishes. Just match up a QD that is designed for Klasse and you'll be fine.

You probably have the newer version as others have reported streaking as well.

I know David B over at Autopia is working on a "Polycharger" to boost sealants cure time and removal. They will have one for H20 based and another for solvent based. So far, testing has shown good improments in cure time, application, and longevity. Tests have been done on a whole bunch of sealants.

Over at DFTowel, they now have a sponge to replace clay when it come time to clay a finish. Very interesting and have yet to try it, but from what I hear, it does work well and can follow the contour of the panel much better than clay. It's called a Peerless Sponge. Peerless Sponge and the original Magic Cube: Magic Cube

Hope this will answer those nagging issues!

Regards,
Deanski