gota911

Scroll down a little farther to see the other two cars.

Deanski

You can top most any sealant with wax. It does then show a deeper/wetter look, but may also sometimes give a slight distorted or muted look depending on wax or color of finish. S100 is a very clear wax and the same wax as P21S only it's sold mostly at motorcycle shops. It's also cheaper too!

It will give an additional layer of protection and act as a sacrificial layer before Rejex gets weathered. Just remember you'd have to strip the wax if you need to/want to add another layer of Rejex. Any good alkaline detergent/soap will strip the wax but normally will not effect sealants. To remove sealants I use an alcohol/water mix or in tight areas Prepsol.

More pics through that link further down, it may take time to load as they are very high resolution. SCOTTWAX also is one hell of a photographer and never uses any picture altering software in his shots unless stated for a reason. You should see other cars he does including some high-end Italian cars and other exotics. For those people in his area, I highly recommend him. You won't find anyone better in that area he services.

Enjoy the pics and let us know how you like it topped with the S100 which I'm sure you'll see a big difference!

Regards,
Deanski

mdrums

Where do you get the Propel lite cut cyclo pads? I read about everyone using them. I tried to Google them and came up with nothing but posts on autotopia.

Deanski

4" pads: Propel 4" Pads

7" Propel Pads: 7" Prople Pads

Depending on which machine you use, those are the pads.

Deanski

mdrums

Deanski, thanks for the info...I have not picked a machine yet. I do have a nice air compressor so I need to decide on either an electric or air compressor buffer. Suggestions?

Deanski

Air ones are very nice and light, less fatigue but need proper maintenance now and then. Electric polishers are heavier and need no maintenance. For anyone starting, a good Porter-Cable 7424 Dual Action Orbital is the way to go as it not just a orbital, but a random orbital. Air tools are mostly just orbital and also rotary. Air tools also need good line dryers so as you polish, you're not adding oils or other contaminants from the air polisher exhaust. I did a seminar on these and added day-glow clear additive to the system and used a blacklight in a spray booth to show how much can exit the polisher and get on the finish.

The Griots polisher is a Porter-Cable type with a nice handle to hold and move it a bit easier than your standard "PC". All very good and what most weekend wax detailers use as it so easy and safe.

Normal pads for these are 6". the 4" pads are good for small areas, hard to reach areas etc.

The Cyclo is also a very great tool, but for first time users it can be a bit more involved than your standard "PC", but a very good tool.

Stay away from full size orbitals used in pro shops as most have limited pads and are very heavy. Same for cheap orbitals found at Sears, Wal-Mart etc.

Also, no rotary for anyone who has not used polishers at all, or have limited experience as it can damage paint so fast it's scary! Although the best for results, it's also the fastest to get into serious trouble with. They can burn paint very quickly, add holograms if not used correctly and pads can catch on objects more than a PC can.

When polishing for first time, stay away from sharp edges as they have the least amount of paint/clearcoat. It can be touched-up by hand or by use of a finish pad and very careful work.

There is now so much info on machine polishing from Autopia, Classic Motoring Accessories (Properautocare.com) and Griots. Obtain as much info, then go to your junkyard and get a panel to practice on. This way you get to see what the tool and which pads work and how they work. Same for polishes etc.

Any paint film has to be masked off so not to catch it with a polisher as well.

You can even go to very soft finish pads to apply sealants/waxes and then, change pad and add a bonnet mostly MF type to buff-off with to a very high shine!

Enjoy your new polisher, then enjoy how nice your finish will look!

Regards,
Deanski

kcl

Great info Deanski. Thanks.

Deanski

Thank you and you're welcome!

There is quite a bit of information on the Porter-Cable polishers, how to properly use them etc. The best advise I can give besides these how-to videos is the purchase of a panel from junkyards to practice on. Look at it this way, you may go through pads, products etc, but it's better on something that means nothing than your Porsche or other car. This way, you get and see the way pads work and react with specific polishes.

When you are ready, then it's time to polish your car.

In time, you may even feel the need to obtain a rotary. Best one I've used is still the Makita 9227C. Rotary polishers take time to master. There are way too many "Detailers" who claim to do a good job only to get holograms or worse swirl marks and even burnt paint.

Remember, edges have less paint than any flat surface. You must be very careful around corners, fender edges and any finish ends.

There are many great polishes to get the finish perfect and many waxes or sealants that will make your Porsche look stunning.

Bottom line, no matter what you put on it as a LSP (Last Step Product) you HAVE to get the finish free of all defects and as high a gloss as possible. Form then, maintenance roll plays a key to how well it will last w/o marring.

Washing with the two-bucket method is one way. Proper use of the right mitts and what they are used for exclusively for. Quality Micro Fiber towels etc.

For drying, as long as the area is wet from washing, I'll use a Toro hand-held leaf blower to remove water fast and have less contact with a possibly bad towel. I dry it more with a waffel weave MF towel, then on to clay, polish and finish.

Enjoy all the reading, viewing and practice!

Regards,
Deanski

mdrums

Deanski, have you ever used a product to dry your car called The Absorber?

Deanski

Never liked those synthetic chamois. Would you use it on your dining room table? Still the best is a soft waffel weave MF towel or blow off with a filtered leaf blower. Yes I have a paper filter on the Toro to make sure it does not pick-up any dust in the air as I force dry. Follow with a WW towel and I'm ready for polsihing.

The softer the better. If using cotton, use 100% USA towels, and remove any ends and sides. Wash prior to use to remove any sizing.

MF towels have to be washed by temselves and no softeners both in a wash or dryer sheet. You can even add 1/2 to 1 cup of white vinegar in the rinse to remove all soaps. Dry on low or no heat, and no softener sheets. You do not want to mix fabrics with MF towels. To add a bit of static in the towel to attract dust, throw in dryer and warm them up.

I see you're loking into filtered water. A reverse osmosisis one way to remove any minerals and dries w/o spotting. A very cheap way out is the Mr Clean washing system. Try these first to see if you really want to spend big $$ just to wash one or two cars. If you also have a garage, then really no point as you can wash and move it inside to finish drying.

Wish Porsche had Ceramiclear finish or the new finish being developed that heals itself when warm.

Deanski

MJones

I get a kick out of reading about this wax that wax...this shine that shine..
For those that really don't go out and drive I suppose that looks are important.

As a collector of bugs ....I have found that Rejex does work....
Heres 3 days 2000 mi worth

THPorsche

I use the Absorber to dry the top but I think it's too "grippy" for the paint.

930man

rejex is great stuff ...used to use it over Zaino all the time on the 997 great when i was at the track rubber just come right off. if you have ever tracked your car you will know how hard it is to get the rubber off.

car always looked good

cvazquez

You are the MAN!

Tedder Bear

I think you missed a bug, or two....