How hard can you drive a Porsche?
#2
Look at porsches from 20 years ago, and the condition they're in.
all in how you take care of it. Oubviously they'll have some small issues, but with regular preventitive maintenance, like any car, they'll be solid.
there's 356's from the early 60's with one owner that have over 300,000 miles on the original engine!
all in how you take care of it. Oubviously they'll have some small issues, but with regular preventitive maintenance, like any car, they'll be solid.
there's 356's from the early 60's with one owner that have over 300,000 miles on the original engine!
#3
After a spirited break in (ocasional 5000 RPM) I can not count on one hand how many days the engine has not seen red line. stay on top of your oil changes. I treated my 99 C2 the same way and I sold it with 118,000 miles on it .
#4
Hard driving in break-in is thought to lead to a faster car. Porsches have typically handled all manner of hard acceleration, cornering and braking except that associated with standing start, drop-clutch, bonzai accleleration, and forced shifting.
Golden rule: Avoid type 2 over-revs or forfeit your warranty. AS
Golden rule: Avoid type 2 over-revs or forfeit your warranty. AS
#5
Originally Posted by Alexander Stemer
Hard driving in break-in is thought to lead to a faster car.
Fact is, engines are no more organic, living organisms than a building or a bridge. Stressing the components will not cause a regrowth in cells, like strength training and conditioning will do for you. On the contrary, stressing metallic components shortens their life, especially for aluminum and its alloys, which have no fatigue life (i.e. aluminum has a finite number of stress cycles before cracking).
Engines are assembled from machined components that have tolerances. Some are on the plus side of the nominal dimensions, some on the negative side. During break-in these components find their natural centers of rotation and are thus "ground" to perfection to match their mating parts. Keeping revs below the recommended level during break-in ensures against excessive wear, which can lead to engine inefficiencies and potential loss of power.
But after break-in, our engines can take the punishment you dish out (after oil temp reaches operating temperature, that is). They're designed to be driven hard.
#6
Originally Posted by OCBen
I hear this all the time, and the first time I heard it I almost believed it myself, for a split second.
Fact is, engines are no more organic, living organisms than a building or a bridge. Stressing the components will not cause a regrowth in cells, like strength training and conditioning will do for you. On the contrary, stressing metallic components shortens their life, especially for aluminum and its alloys, which have no fatigue life (i.e. aluminum has a finite number of stress cycles before cracking).
Engines are assembled from machined components that have tolerances. Some are on the plus side of the nominal dimensions, some on the negative side. During break-in these components find their natural centers of rotation and are thus "ground" to perfection to match their mating parts. Keeping revs below the recommended level during break-in ensures against excessive wear, which can lead to engine inefficiencies and potential loss of power.
But after break-in, our engines can take the punishment you dish out (after oil temp reaches operating temperature, that is). They're designed to be driven hard.
Fact is, engines are no more organic, living organisms than a building or a bridge. Stressing the components will not cause a regrowth in cells, like strength training and conditioning will do for you. On the contrary, stressing metallic components shortens their life, especially for aluminum and its alloys, which have no fatigue life (i.e. aluminum has a finite number of stress cycles before cracking).
Engines are assembled from machined components that have tolerances. Some are on the plus side of the nominal dimensions, some on the negative side. During break-in these components find their natural centers of rotation and are thus "ground" to perfection to match their mating parts. Keeping revs below the recommended level during break-in ensures against excessive wear, which can lead to engine inefficiencies and potential loss of power.
But after break-in, our engines can take the punishment you dish out (after oil temp reaches operating temperature, that is). They're designed to be driven hard.
#7
Originally Posted by CJC
After a spirited break in (ocasional 5000 RPM) I can not count on one hand how many days the engine has not seen red line. stay on top of your oil changes. I treated my 99 C2 the same way and I sold it with 118,000 miles on it .
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#8
I have 1,200 miles on 06 997S and cant wait till 2,000 when I feel safe to realy punch it to red line. I added the EVO air intake and I think I am just gona change my oil pretty soon, but not do much more than that. How often do you test tire pressure?
thanks all.
thanks all.
#9
That's a tough answer as what is one man's "hard" driving may be another's taking it easy.
I would have to see the way you drive to really tell you. I have never babied my Porsches, and I think I brake pretty hard. But I do not ABUSE my cars either. I don't rev her up and drop the clutch. This is not that sort of car. (You can't get 305 30-series tires to spin no matter what!) What subject the car to such abuse. I routinely get well over 100,000 miles on a clutch, but I do race and autocross my cars. I think it has a lot to do with how you learned to drive. Give us an idea and then maybe we can point out some issues to you.
I would have to see the way you drive to really tell you. I have never babied my Porsches, and I think I brake pretty hard. But I do not ABUSE my cars either. I don't rev her up and drop the clutch. This is not that sort of car. (You can't get 305 30-series tires to spin no matter what!) What subject the car to such abuse. I routinely get well over 100,000 miles on a clutch, but I do race and autocross my cars. I think it has a lot to do with how you learned to drive. Give us an idea and then maybe we can point out some issues to you.
#10
Originally Posted by riad
I agree with the only exception beign the computer's that regulate everything the engine does. The ECU will "learn" how you drive on many cars, and adjust accordingly.
Do you know where this is described technically?
#11
I would say the pedal is at the floor as frequently as possible and I try to do twice the speed as those yellow signs say for corners and downshift to save my break pads. when at a stop light and Im in front I like to be the first driver to the next stop light, unless its yellow. unfortunaltly I am observing 4,000 to 4,500 tach speed since im still under 2000 miles, but I hope to get up to 6,000-7,000 on shifting at that time when there are no cars in my way. I dont shift hard or drop the clutch when reving. I dont want to abuse my car but use its full potential without hurting it. But I guess I have four years to use the warranty and probably trade up!
thanks
thanks
#12
Originally Posted by OCBen
I've heard this too.
Do you know where this is described technically?
Do you know where this is described technically?
#13
ECU learning myth is not going to add power if your track it weekly or remove power if you drive it to pick up groceries. Dyno your car, drive it like you hate it, dyno it again. Same number. Do the grocery thing and youll get the same number (all other conditions being equal of course).
There are some transmissions out there that learn your driving habit and if its slower accleration etc. will adjust shift speeds accordingly. But as for engines making HP adjustments on the fly? I dont buy it.
The ECU operates withing a given number of variables (maps) + fuel + air that can and do change (gasoline octane, air density).
There are some transmissions out there that learn your driving habit and if its slower accleration etc. will adjust shift speeds accordingly. But as for engines making HP adjustments on the fly? I dont buy it.
The ECU operates withing a given number of variables (maps) + fuel + air that can and do change (gasoline octane, air density).