DIY Oil Change in the 997
08-16-2009, 05:20 PM
#106
Banned
Thread Starter
Yes, to maximize the amount of oil drained you'll need to have the car as horizontal as possible, inasmuch as the oil pan has a flat horizontal panel on the bottom. You don't really need to jack up the car at all. If you have a sloping driveway you can position your car so it's horizontal inside the garage while you leave yourself enough room to crawl underneath from the back and slide the drain pan underneath. Ask Edgy and PaulSpeed how they do it.
08-16-2009, 05:55 PM
#107
Poseur
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
As a Porsche guy I'm a bit **** (you think?!)
I have a perfectly level garage and drive. Thus, to get access to beneath the engine I have to get them up a little. I use a pair of floor jacks. Once I get the bolt out and the filter cartridge cover off, I lower the car back down over th used oil collector(s) and eek out the last of the old oil. Then, I jack it back up again to access the bottom of the engine, put things back together, and then clear everything out of the way, drop the car, and then refill with oil.
I have a perfectly level garage and drive. Thus, to get access to beneath the engine I have to get them up a little. I use a pair of floor jacks. Once I get the bolt out and the filter cartridge cover off, I lower the car back down over th used oil collector(s) and eek out the last of the old oil. Then, I jack it back up again to access the bottom of the engine, put things back together, and then clear everything out of the way, drop the car, and then refill with oil.
08-16-2009, 06:14 PM
#108
The p/n is 94810722200, I read somewhere it is the same filer as the Cayenne V-8 and the local parts department confirmed it. There is a gasket that is sold separately.
08-17-2009, 05:33 PM
#110
Originally Posted by Edgy01
I think I'm going to epoxy in a small magnet onto an extra aluminum oil plug and put it in during my next oil change. It will be interesting to see if anything shows up on it. I miss that from the older 911s//930s.
I wound up using JB Weld and put a super magnet on the drain plug. I tested it beforehand in my climate chamber (i.e., freezer, and then oven) and it came through unaffected. There was nothing on the magnet after an engine oil change cycle.
I think I'm going to epoxy in a small magnet onto an extra aluminum oil plug and put it in during my next oil change. It will be interesting to see if anything shows up on it. I miss that from the older 911s//930s.
I wound up using JB Weld and put a super magnet on the drain plug. I tested it beforehand in my climate chamber (i.e., freezer, and then oven) and it came through unaffected. There was nothing on the magnet after an engine oil change cycle.
They also sell an adapter so you can use a spin-on oil filter rather than the Porsche filter in a plastic cup.
08-17-2009, 05:43 PM
#111
Maybe I have freakishly long arms, or as some on this forum have said, a regular non-PASM C2 has the clearance of a SUV, but I'm able to reach the drain plug and filter without jacking the car up.
08-17-2009, 06:20 PM
#112
Newbies Hospitality Director
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Winston-Salem, NC
Posts: 18,085
Likes: 0
Received 32 Likes
on
32 Posts
When you are standing straight, can you scratch your knees without bending over? If so, then yes, you have freakishly long arms. 
08-17-2009, 09:50 PM
#113
03-20-2010, 05:58 PM
#115
Racer
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Ireland
Posts: 258
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
03-22-2010, 08:32 PM
#118
Racer
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Ireland
Posts: 258
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
05-06-2010, 01:27 PM
#119
Just a couple of notes I wanted to add to this excellent thread:
(1) It sounds obvious, but be sure to turn the drain plug and oil filter housing the correct counterclockwise way. It is easy to get turned around when working on your back, and to turn in relation to the ground rather than the car. If you use a socket wrench, you can make sure it is turning the correct counterclockwise way before going under the car.
(2) If your drain plug becomes stripped from being over-torqued (it happens easily bc the plug is soft), then use a screw extractor as described in these threads to remove the damaged plug:
http://www.renntech.org/forums/index...=3308&hl=sears
https://rennlist.com/forums/996-foru...ped+drain+plug
We grinded the end off a large screw type extractor from Sears in order to get a good fit, banged it into the drain plug with a hammer, and extracted a stripped bolt easily. As described in the above threads, other extractors also will work. For a replacement plug, I had an extra Porsche plug on hand. There is apparently a magnetized Raby plug and some other options available that are less succeptible to stripping, although I understand there is some benefit to the soft plug because it deforms instead of the oil pan.
(3) Regarding the engine air filter change, do not remove the air box from the engine. Rather, as described by Edgy elsewhere (do a search), disconnect the air intake hose, pull up the oil fill tube, pull up the air box (wiggling a bit), carefully rotate airbox so that the box remains in the engine bay and you have good access to the bottom of the air box, use an alan key or hex screwdriver to remove the 8 hex screws on the bottom just enough so that the two parts of the box can be separated, remove the old air filter, clean box with a damp cloth, replace new filter, and reverse the process to reconnect the air box. No need to disconnect the MAF sensor plug, etc.
(4) If you have any problem with the removal of the oil filter housing using a non-Porsche removal tool (I had a plastic No. 7 oil wrench that didn't seem strong enough in light of the unduly high torque of my oil filter), you can use one of those strap oil filter wrenches to remove the filter.
(5) I think dealers habitually overtighten things. Not only was my drain plug partially stripped, but I noticed the hex screws on the bottom of the air box were a bit deformed as if someone had used a power screwdriver with too much vigor, and the oil filter was on unnecessarily tight.
(6) In general, I found doing a service myself to be rewarding and pretty fun. At my billing rate, it probably makes more sense to pay someone to do these things, but I would prefer to do it myself. Also, I can make sure everything is torqued correctly.
Thanks again to the late OC Ben for this thread and others for their input.
(1) It sounds obvious, but be sure to turn the drain plug and oil filter housing the correct counterclockwise way. It is easy to get turned around when working on your back, and to turn in relation to the ground rather than the car. If you use a socket wrench, you can make sure it is turning the correct counterclockwise way before going under the car.
(2) If your drain plug becomes stripped from being over-torqued (it happens easily bc the plug is soft), then use a screw extractor as described in these threads to remove the damaged plug:
http://www.renntech.org/forums/index...=3308&hl=sears
https://rennlist.com/forums/996-foru...ped+drain+plug
We grinded the end off a large screw type extractor from Sears in order to get a good fit, banged it into the drain plug with a hammer, and extracted a stripped bolt easily. As described in the above threads, other extractors also will work. For a replacement plug, I had an extra Porsche plug on hand. There is apparently a magnetized Raby plug and some other options available that are less succeptible to stripping, although I understand there is some benefit to the soft plug because it deforms instead of the oil pan.
(3) Regarding the engine air filter change, do not remove the air box from the engine. Rather, as described by Edgy elsewhere (do a search), disconnect the air intake hose, pull up the oil fill tube, pull up the air box (wiggling a bit), carefully rotate airbox so that the box remains in the engine bay and you have good access to the bottom of the air box, use an alan key or hex screwdriver to remove the 8 hex screws on the bottom just enough so that the two parts of the box can be separated, remove the old air filter, clean box with a damp cloth, replace new filter, and reverse the process to reconnect the air box. No need to disconnect the MAF sensor plug, etc.
(4) If you have any problem with the removal of the oil filter housing using a non-Porsche removal tool (I had a plastic No. 7 oil wrench that didn't seem strong enough in light of the unduly high torque of my oil filter), you can use one of those strap oil filter wrenches to remove the filter.
(5) I think dealers habitually overtighten things. Not only was my drain plug partially stripped, but I noticed the hex screws on the bottom of the air box were a bit deformed as if someone had used a power screwdriver with too much vigor, and the oil filter was on unnecessarily tight.
(6) In general, I found doing a service myself to be rewarding and pretty fun. At my billing rate, it probably makes more sense to pay someone to do these things, but I would prefer to do it myself. Also, I can make sure everything is torqued correctly.
Thanks again to the late OC Ben for this thread and others for their input.
05-15-2010, 12:06 PM
#120
Rennlist Member
In case you didn't see my post, in North Texas (Park Place) is running a great special for new customers $129.00
https://rennlist.com/forums/general-...ml#post7572708
https://rennlist.com/forums/general-...ml#post7572708