De-ionized water: how well do solutions like CRSpotless work?
07-05-2006, 11:03 PM
#31
Pro
Originally Posted by allegretto
Yes, in theory. The whole idea is to expose the water to as much resin as possible. However if the flow rate is too high or there is not enough surface area for the severity of the dissolved minerals than you need more "cleaning" of the water.
Now, I assume you put the flow restrictors in properly. Do you have a softener upstream from the de-ionizer?
Now, I assume you put the flow restrictors in properly. Do you have a softener upstream from the de-ionizer?
07-06-2006, 11:06 AM
#32
Banned
Originally Posted by allegretto
The whole idea is to expose the water to as much resin as possible. However if the flow rate is too high or there is not enough surface area for the severity of the dissolved minerals than you need more "cleaning" of the water.
If I recall correctly the resin beads get discolored once they're spent. If so, it would make sense to make the canister out of clear plastic for easy detection of change out time.
That waterstick looks unwieldy, being so long like that. It might work for a final hose down before drying.
07-06-2006, 12:12 PM
#33
Rennlist Member
Originally Posted by nkhalidi
I have a CRSpotless as well, the smaller on-cart unit. I used the DI water for the whole process - wetting, soaping, and rinsing. It worked amazingly well on the first four or five cars I washed, but then the quality dropped off dramatically on the last car I washed. Spots everywhere.
I called the company, and turns out the filter may be spent after just five washes. Reason being that here in SW Florida we have a soft water filter, and soft water makes ions which are apparently more slippery and more difficult for the filters in the device to remove. The best way to wash here, I'm told, is to use regular water for the wetting and soaping, then switch to DI for only the final rinse. This way you conserve as much of the treated water as possible.
I called the company, and turns out the filter may be spent after just five washes. Reason being that here in SW Florida we have a soft water filter, and soft water makes ions which are apparently more slippery and more difficult for the filters in the device to remove. The best way to wash here, I'm told, is to use regular water for the wetting and soaping, then switch to DI for only the final rinse. This way you conserve as much of the treated water as possible.
I think the trick with the device is to ration water through the device carefully. That is, wet and soap using regular water, then DI for the rinsing process, using probably 4-5 gallons. There's a restrictor that keeps the water and 2 gallons per minute, and figure two minutes to rinse a regular size car.
http://crspotless.com/
07-06-2006, 01:10 PM
#34
Nordschleife Master
Originally Posted by OCBen
Hey Herman, it seems easy enough to build one of these filtration units yourself, don't you think? That's what I'm thinking of doing.
If I recall correctly the resin beads get discolored once they're spent. If so, it would make sense to make the canister out of clear plastic for easy detection of change out time.
That waterstick looks unwieldy, being so long like that. It might work for a final hose down before drying.
If I recall correctly the resin beads get discolored once they're spent. If so, it would make sense to make the canister out of clear plastic for easy detection of change out time.
That waterstick looks unwieldy, being so long like that. It might work for a final hose down before drying.
The "trick" is getting the water into contact with enough surface area of the resin so cartriges are usually designed to enhance exposure and flow in an efficent manner. I suppose an ideal system would have some type of shallow trough where the water filtered through on or two layers of resin over a broad area but this isn't too practical.
I just bought the CRS Big Boy unit and will deploy it as soon as my baby gets back from it's hi-intensity strength training program at the dealer's shop.
