Wash Clay Wash Polish Wax
#1
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I recently dedicated time to the detailing process using a combination of tips and tricks from Anthony Orosco , OCBen , and my previous experience. The process spanned two days and was done completely by hand. This provided an up close and personal view of all the entire car, which revealed some blemishes that will need further attention.
I'd like to thank Anthony and Ben for their generous contributions on this topic. You can obtain more detail on detailing by reading the links in both of their profiles (click on names above).
The following products were used:
- Meguirs Soft Wash Gel
- Clay Magic
- Blitz Omega Glaze
- Blitz One Grand Carnauba Wax
- Sheepskin Wash Mitt
- Synthetic Chamois
- Microfiber Towels
Overall I'm very pleased with the results and hope you enjoy the photos.
I'd like to thank Anthony and Ben for their generous contributions on this topic. You can obtain more detail on detailing by reading the links in both of their profiles (click on names above).
The following products were used:
- Meguirs Soft Wash Gel
- Clay Magic
- Blitz Omega Glaze
- Blitz One Grand Carnauba Wax
- Sheepskin Wash Mitt
- Synthetic Chamois
- Microfiber Towels
Overall I'm very pleased with the results and hope you enjoy the photos.
#3
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Beautiful job zumaron.....
The blemishes you refer to, are they paint defects, scratches? It's funny, when you really detail the car (like you have), you know every square inch of it (scratches and all).....There's a limit to how good you can make the car look by hand (I'd say you probably reached it)...The blemish free (if there is such a thing) glass like paint really requires the use of something like a Porter Cable.....and I just don't feel comfortable using one. What I tend to do is have someone come and do the PC work, once every 6 months or so, and then I get an immense amount of pleasure detailing the car the way you did....Really nice job, enjoy!!
The blemishes you refer to, are they paint defects, scratches? It's funny, when you really detail the car (like you have), you know every square inch of it (scratches and all).....There's a limit to how good you can make the car look by hand (I'd say you probably reached it)...The blemish free (if there is such a thing) glass like paint really requires the use of something like a Porter Cable.....and I just don't feel comfortable using one. What I tend to do is have someone come and do the PC work, once every 6 months or so, and then I get an immense amount of pleasure detailing the car the way you did....Really nice job, enjoy!!
#6
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Hey Ron, I notice from the two bottom photos that you turned your car around to face the opposite direction when you took the shot. In the middle photo the nose of your car is facing away from the coastline as seen in the reflection off your door. In the bottom photo your car is facing toward the coastline.
Did you take the bottom photo first and then realized you were too close to the edge to get on the other side to take the shot, so you turned your car around? That wouldn't make sense. It would make more sense to just move the car away from the edge some to give you the room you need instead of going through the trouble of turning your car around like you did. Unless.....unless the blemishes you speak of are on the passenger door and the driver's door is the good side.
Did you take the bottom photo first and then realized you were too close to the edge to get on the other side to take the shot, so you turned your car around? That wouldn't make sense. It would make more sense to just move the car away from the edge some to give you the room you need instead of going through the trouble of turning your car around like you did. Unless.....unless the blemishes you speak of are on the passenger door and the driver's door is the good side.
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#7
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Makes me SAD when guys use CLAY!
Did you try some bug and tar remover first? IOW, some mineral spirit-based stuff to remove and clean off non-waterbased goop on car? IOW, there are other ways to remove stubborn contaminants than clay. I doubt that most guys NEED to use clay since we take such good care of our cars.
As I understand it clay is a last resort. Clay "sands" the clearcoat., You can only use clay a few times before you start to shorten paint longevity. Please correct me if I'm wrong.
You should AT LEAST try mineral spirit-based paint cleaners before using clay.
Did you try some bug and tar remover first? IOW, some mineral spirit-based stuff to remove and clean off non-waterbased goop on car? IOW, there are other ways to remove stubborn contaminants than clay. I doubt that most guys NEED to use clay since we take such good care of our cars.
As I understand it clay is a last resort. Clay "sands" the clearcoat., You can only use clay a few times before you start to shorten paint longevity. Please correct me if I'm wrong.
You should AT LEAST try mineral spirit-based paint cleaners before using clay.
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#8
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Originally Posted by MMD
Makes me SAD when guys use CLAY!
Did you try some bug and tar remover first? IOW, some mineral spirit-based stuff to remove and clean off non-waterbased goop on car? IOW, there are other ways to remove stubborn contaminants than clay. I doubt that most guys NEED to use clay since we take such good care of our cars.
As I understand it clay is a last resort. Clay "sands" the clearcoat., You can only use clay a few times before you start to shorten paint longevity. Please correct me if I'm wrong.
You should AT LEAST try mineral spirit-based paint cleaners before using clay.
Did you try some bug and tar remover first? IOW, some mineral spirit-based stuff to remove and clean off non-waterbased goop on car? IOW, there are other ways to remove stubborn contaminants than clay. I doubt that most guys NEED to use clay since we take such good care of our cars.
As I understand it clay is a last resort. Clay "sands" the clearcoat., You can only use clay a few times before you start to shorten paint longevity. Please correct me if I'm wrong.
You should AT LEAST try mineral spirit-based paint cleaners before using clay.
If there are no contaminants on the surface, clay will not touch the surface. Clay floats on a film of lubricant and will only touch and lift off the contaminants as it passes over them, and leave the paint untouched.
Read this and forever have your ignorance wiped out (well, okay, as far as clay is concerned anyway): http://www.guidetodetailing.com/arti...p?articleId=14
Last edited by OCBen; 03-20-2006 at 01:16 PM.
#9
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The the blemish is on the top right of front bumber and appears to be a bird dropping that was not removed in a timely manner before I took delivery. The clay and polish didn't work. I've read vinegar is an option. Any suggestions on how to extract that from the paint?
Regarding Clay...
I usually take my car the a local detailing guy for the once over and then I'll maintain it after that. Several years ago he suggested claying my new car, which puzzled me. I thought it's new, why does it need to clayed? He said, the paint picks up a contaminants before it's first coat of wax is applied. For example on white paint it will eventually show up as a tiny rust spot. These should be removed before sealing the paint with a protective layer.
Once it's been clayed, polished and sealed, you shouldn't have to clay again, unless you let the protective layer deteriorate. I asked around and found this to be common philosophy among detailers. Initially planned to wax once a month and polish as needed. However, now I'm reading about the about products (klasse, etc) that last longer then carnauba and better suited for clear coat.
I decided to do the work myself. The clay product comes with a cellophane glove which increases your sensitivity to things you can't see. I was very surprised that the paint felt like an orange peel. After claying a small area and it was much smoother (like glass). Claying certainly removed the "orange peel" feeling. I don't think it was removing the clear coat and causing harm. I'm interested in other points of view on this.
Ben --
The reason for turning the car around was to line up the curvature of the coast with the curve of the front of the car for additional photos I took.
Regarding Clay...
I usually take my car the a local detailing guy for the once over and then I'll maintain it after that. Several years ago he suggested claying my new car, which puzzled me. I thought it's new, why does it need to clayed? He said, the paint picks up a contaminants before it's first coat of wax is applied. For example on white paint it will eventually show up as a tiny rust spot. These should be removed before sealing the paint with a protective layer.
Once it's been clayed, polished and sealed, you shouldn't have to clay again, unless you let the protective layer deteriorate. I asked around and found this to be common philosophy among detailers. Initially planned to wax once a month and polish as needed. However, now I'm reading about the about products (klasse, etc) that last longer then carnauba and better suited for clear coat.
I decided to do the work myself. The clay product comes with a cellophane glove which increases your sensitivity to things you can't see. I was very surprised that the paint felt like an orange peel. After claying a small area and it was much smoother (like glass). Claying certainly removed the "orange peel" feeling. I don't think it was removing the clear coat and causing harm. I'm interested in other points of view on this.
Ben --
The reason for turning the car around was to line up the curvature of the coast with the curve of the front of the car for additional photos I took.
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#10
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Originally Posted by zumaron
The the blemish is on the top right of front bumber and appears to be a bird dropping that was not removed in a timely manner before I took delivery. The clay and polish didn't work. I've read vinegar is an option. Any suggestions on how to extract that from the paint?
I discussed this in detail but can't find the post due to Rennlist being so slow right now. The bird dropping (highly acidic) has etched your paint. You'll need to polish the local area to repair the damage.
#11
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Originally Posted by drbf
Do you have the clear bra on the front of the car?
#12
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Here's how you get them out.
Spray the areas down with isopropyl alcohol mixed 50:50 with distilled water. Let it dwell. I even use gauze pads to hold the solution in place. Let it dwell for about 5 minutes. Remove the pads, spray a mixture of baking soda and water, again use some gauze pads to hold in place. Let that sit for about an equal amount of time. Now, hose off the area after lubricating it with some car wash solution mixed in a bucket or spray bottle. Never, never scrape any stubborn left overs with your fingers. Wash and dry. If there are stubborn, left over residues, try some tar remover or a clay bar. Once everything is clean, clay the area and inspect for etching. If it present, polish, by hand first, if that isn't enough, by PC. Then, finally, reseal. ( You can re apply some sealant the next day if you wish)
As for clay, it only removes surface imperfections and will not harm clearcoat as long as it's a mild clay. There are clays that are much more aggressive.
Regards,
Deanski
Spray the areas down with isopropyl alcohol mixed 50:50 with distilled water. Let it dwell. I even use gauze pads to hold the solution in place. Let it dwell for about 5 minutes. Remove the pads, spray a mixture of baking soda and water, again use some gauze pads to hold in place. Let that sit for about an equal amount of time. Now, hose off the area after lubricating it with some car wash solution mixed in a bucket or spray bottle. Never, never scrape any stubborn left overs with your fingers. Wash and dry. If there are stubborn, left over residues, try some tar remover or a clay bar. Once everything is clean, clay the area and inspect for etching. If it present, polish, by hand first, if that isn't enough, by PC. Then, finally, reseal. ( You can re apply some sealant the next day if you wish)
As for clay, it only removes surface imperfections and will not harm clearcoat as long as it's a mild clay. There are clays that are much more aggressive.
Regards,
Deanski
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Oh yea, also keep a small bottle of your QD (Quick Detailer) and a Micro-Fiber towel in the car in case it happens again. This way, a quick removal will not harm the finish as one sitting over time in the sun.
Regards,
Deanski
Regards,
Deanski
#14
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Originally Posted by jfraser
Beautiful job zumaron.....
The blemishes you refer to, are they paint defects, scratches? It's funny, when you really detail the car (like you have), you know every square inch of it (scratches and all).....There's a limit to how good you can make the car look by hand (I'd say you probably reached it)...The blemish free (if there is such a thing) glass like paint really requires the use of something like a Porter Cable.....and I just don't feel comfortable using one. What I tend to do is have someone come and do the PC work, once every 6 months or so, and then I get an immense amount of pleasure detailing the car the way you did....Really nice job, enjoy!!
The blemishes you refer to, are they paint defects, scratches? It's funny, when you really detail the car (like you have), you know every square inch of it (scratches and all).....There's a limit to how good you can make the car look by hand (I'd say you probably reached it)...The blemish free (if there is such a thing) glass like paint really requires the use of something like a Porter Cable.....and I just don't feel comfortable using one. What I tend to do is have someone come and do the PC work, once every 6 months or so, and then I get an immense amount of pleasure detailing the car the way you did....Really nice job, enjoy!!
#15
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Originally Posted by E55AMG
don't be afraid of using the porter cable. It is EXTREMELY easy to use and the only way you'll do any damage is if you drop the thing on the car.
Always go with high-quality Micro-Fiber towels as well.
I get my towels from PAKSHAK or at Dominique Fance MS
Also, browse both Autopia.org and Detailcity.org for tons of info regarding detailing!
Regards,
Deanski