Wash Clay Wash Polish Wax
#61
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Originally Posted by OCBen
Thanks for letting us know your justification – that it's the internet – for criticizing anyone who uses detailing clay when you haven't the slightest clue what you're talking about. ... Nice.
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#63
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Originally Posted by Deanski
Have yet to try it. However, the sealants such as #2180 and quick detailer #425 is getting high regards over at Autopia and Detailcity.
Interesting seeing who the founder is of FK1.
Regards,
Deanski
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Interesting seeing who the founder is of FK1.
Regards,
Deanski
I'm sure people like Deanski, Anthony, Ben, et al could produce absolute, or pretty close to absolute perfection, but for me, my results with hand application of FK1 products are very acceptable. (I have no affiliation)
#64
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Holy crap!
Look at THAT reflection!
Pass me a razor, I can shave in that thing!
Nice pic of the finish! I hear the #425 spray makes the finish ultra-slick!
One of these days I have to try and play with the FK1 products.
Regards,
Deanski
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Nice pic of the finish! I hear the #425 spray makes the finish ultra-slick!
One of these days I have to try and play with the FK1 products.
Regards,
Deanski
#65
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Those of you worried about damaging your 997 with clay or orbital buffers are focusing on the logical but wrong items. The real culprit for problems is the innocuous looking MICROFIBER cloth.
But not for the reasons you might think. I'm not talking about paint swirls or finish damage, but rather electrical system damage. Huh???? Is this guy nuts? No. Happened to me just last night and was confirmed by other posts on P-car forums. Apparently, the electrostatic charge buildup caused by microfiber cloths is sufficient to flake out the front control module in '05 997s (not sure if '06 models have been fixed as of yet). In particular, use of the microfiber cloth around the front headlamp area is the highest risk due to improper ESD shielding of the control module (a design flaw) and a electrical pathway in that area of the vehicle that travels from the front hood release mechnanism to the module itself. Symptoms manifest as "System Fault - Go To Workshop" displayed in the dash display and headlights/parking lights/interior dash lighting no longer function in response to use of the headlight switch but rather turn on and off seemingly randomly. Others have claimed the hood latch can also release spontaneously (although the saftey catch prevents this from being a catastrophic event should that be true).
I was shocked (no pun intended). Since when does waxing your car kill the vehicle electronics??? Apparently, with 997s it does. My car's at the dealer today and I will be very interested to see what level of knowledge they have in addressing this known issue that apparently PCNA is working on. In the meantwhile, if you haven't dealt with this already and have an earlier car, I suggest you use cotton towels rather than microfiber ones.
Consider yourself warned.
But not for the reasons you might think. I'm not talking about paint swirls or finish damage, but rather electrical system damage. Huh???? Is this guy nuts? No. Happened to me just last night and was confirmed by other posts on P-car forums. Apparently, the electrostatic charge buildup caused by microfiber cloths is sufficient to flake out the front control module in '05 997s (not sure if '06 models have been fixed as of yet). In particular, use of the microfiber cloth around the front headlamp area is the highest risk due to improper ESD shielding of the control module (a design flaw) and a electrical pathway in that area of the vehicle that travels from the front hood release mechnanism to the module itself. Symptoms manifest as "System Fault - Go To Workshop" displayed in the dash display and headlights/parking lights/interior dash lighting no longer function in response to use of the headlight switch but rather turn on and off seemingly randomly. Others have claimed the hood latch can also release spontaneously (although the saftey catch prevents this from being a catastrophic event should that be true).
I was shocked (no pun intended). Since when does waxing your car kill the vehicle electronics??? Apparently, with 997s it does. My car's at the dealer today and I will be very interested to see what level of knowledge they have in addressing this known issue that apparently PCNA is working on. In the meantwhile, if you haven't dealt with this already and have an earlier car, I suggest you use cotton towels rather than microfiber ones.
Consider yourself warned.
#66
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Interesting post!
If you're a member of Autopia, I'd post it there AND Detailcity to warn of the issue.
Regards,
Deanski
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Regards,
Deanski
Last edited by Deanski; 03-23-2006 at 05:08 PM.
#67
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Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by MMD
This is the *internet* for christ's sake. I'm sure "Ron's" feelings are just fine.
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Originally Posted by Anthony Orosco
Swirl marks are micro scratches introduced into the paint by a high speed rotary. A orbital will not introduce swirls or halograms but they can introduce marring. Swirls are left in the paint finish because the detailer did not properly nor completly finish out his or her buffing job.
OH.....by the way the Porsche looks FANTASTIC
![Cheers](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/beerchug.gif)
OH.....by the way the Porsche looks FANTASTIC
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Even though the 997 looks really good after all the work, there are still a few very fine cobweb (marring) scratches I can see at just the right angle. Also, when polishing out a linear scratch, is a linear motion the preferred method?
Thanks for the compliments on the effort.
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Last edited by zumaron; 03-23-2006 at 04:32 PM.
#69
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This is what I do when I do a full detail 2x a year:
1. Wash w/ Sheepskin wash mitts
2. Dry w/ Waffle Weave Microfiber Towels
3. Clay
4. Wash
5. Dry w/ WWMF
6. Use 3M Fineese-It II Machine Polish w/ PC with an Orange Light Cutting Foam Pad
7. Buff off with a plush microfiber towel
8. Next I use Klasse AIO w/ PC using a White Polishing Foam pad (Gets rid of hazy look casued by 3M)
9. Buff off w/ a plush microfiber towel
10. Then I apply Klasse Sealant Guard by hand w/ a Terry covered Foam Applicator (3 coats)
11. Wipe off w/ a MF towel
12. Top with S100/P21S wax
This works well for me. I can get rid of all swirls. And if u are washing and drying correctly, you should not get any swirls. Just be sure to use the right towels so you don't scratch the car (Pakshak or fiberworks).
So is this procedure ok? Anything I should add or change?
1. Wash w/ Sheepskin wash mitts
2. Dry w/ Waffle Weave Microfiber Towels
3. Clay
4. Wash
5. Dry w/ WWMF
6. Use 3M Fineese-It II Machine Polish w/ PC with an Orange Light Cutting Foam Pad
7. Buff off with a plush microfiber towel
8. Next I use Klasse AIO w/ PC using a White Polishing Foam pad (Gets rid of hazy look casued by 3M)
9. Buff off w/ a plush microfiber towel
10. Then I apply Klasse Sealant Guard by hand w/ a Terry covered Foam Applicator (3 coats)
11. Wipe off w/ a MF towel
12. Top with S100/P21S wax
This works well for me. I can get rid of all swirls. And if u are washing and drying correctly, you should not get any swirls. Just be sure to use the right towels so you don't scratch the car (Pakshak or fiberworks).
So is this procedure ok? Anything I should add or change?
#70
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Originally Posted by Deanski
Holy crap!
Look at THAT reflection!
Pass me a razor, I can shave in that thing!
Nice pic of the finish! I hear the #425 spray makes the finish ultra-slick!
One of these days I have to try and play with the FK1 products.
Regards,
Deanski
![EEK!](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/eek.gif)
![EEK!](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/eek.gif)
![thumbup](https://rennlist.com/forums/graemlins/thumbup.gif)
Nice pic of the finish! I hear the #425 spray makes the finish ultra-slick!
One of these days I have to try and play with the FK1 products.
Regards,
Deanski
I'll post on the durability as the detail"ages"
You might want to give the FK sample kit a try? But, as your signature says--"find what works and stick with it."
(Again, I have no affiliation with FK)
#71
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Originally Posted by black993man
Those of you worried about damaging your 997 with clay or orbital buffers are focusing on the logical but wrong items. The real culprit for problems is the innocuous looking MICROFIBER cloth.
But not for the reasons you might think. I'm not talking about paint swirls or finish damage, but rather electrical system damage. Huh???? Is this guy nuts? No. Happened to me just last night and was confirmed by other posts on P-car forums. Apparently, the electrostatic charge buildup caused by microfiber cloths is sufficient to flake out the front control module in '05 997s (not sure if '06 models have been fixed as of yet). In particular, use of the microfiber cloth around the front headlamp area is the highest risk due to improper ESD shielding of the control module (a design flaw) and a electrical pathway in that area of the vehicle that travels from the front hood release mechnanism to the module itself. Symptoms manifest as "System Fault - Go To Workshop" displayed in the dash display and headlights/parking lights/interior dash lighting no longer function in response to use of the headlight switch but rather turn on and off seemingly randomly. Others have claimed the hood latch can also release spontaneously (although the saftey catch prevents this from being a catastrophic event should that be true).
I was shocked (no pun intended). Since when does waxing your car kill the vehicle electronics??? Apparently, with 997s it does. My car's at the dealer today and I will be very interested to see what level of knowledge they have in addressing this known issue that apparently PCNA is working on. In the meantwhile, if you haven't dealt with this already and have an earlier car, I suggest you use cotton towels rather than microfiber ones.
Consider yourself warned.
But not for the reasons you might think. I'm not talking about paint swirls or finish damage, but rather electrical system damage. Huh???? Is this guy nuts? No. Happened to me just last night and was confirmed by other posts on P-car forums. Apparently, the electrostatic charge buildup caused by microfiber cloths is sufficient to flake out the front control module in '05 997s (not sure if '06 models have been fixed as of yet). In particular, use of the microfiber cloth around the front headlamp area is the highest risk due to improper ESD shielding of the control module (a design flaw) and a electrical pathway in that area of the vehicle that travels from the front hood release mechnanism to the module itself. Symptoms manifest as "System Fault - Go To Workshop" displayed in the dash display and headlights/parking lights/interior dash lighting no longer function in response to use of the headlight switch but rather turn on and off seemingly randomly. Others have claimed the hood latch can also release spontaneously (although the saftey catch prevents this from being a catastrophic event should that be true).
I was shocked (no pun intended). Since when does waxing your car kill the vehicle electronics??? Apparently, with 997s it does. My car's at the dealer today and I will be very interested to see what level of knowledge they have in addressing this known issue that apparently PCNA is working on. In the meantwhile, if you haven't dealt with this already and have an earlier car, I suggest you use cotton towels rather than microfiber ones.
Consider yourself warned.
Very interesting!
Deanski
#72
Three Wheelin'
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Yes this was covered last year in great detail, here on this forum as well if I remember correctly. I believe 06 and late 05 model years are not experiencing this problem anymore.
#73
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Originally Posted by zumaron
Even though the 997 looks really good after all the work, there are still a few very fine cobweb (marring) scratches I can see at just the right angle. Also, when polishing out a linear scratch, is a linear motion the preferred method?
Thanks for the compliments on the effort.
![Cheers](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/beerchug.gif)
I would consider getting some Menzerna Final Polish II and also a Optimum Ultra Fine finishing pad and using that combo with a PC on your paint. Then seal it with the wax of your choice.
Originally Posted by OCBen
The word is hologram derived from holography, not halogram. ![order](https://rennlist.com/forums/graemlins/order.gif)
![order](https://rennlist.com/forums/graemlins/order.gif)
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Anthony
#74
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Originally Posted by Sillent Killer
This is what I do when I do a full detail 2x a year:
1. Wash w/ Sheepskin wash mitts
2. Dry w/ Waffle Weave Microfiber Towels
3. Clay
4. Wash
5. Dry w/ WWMF
6. Use 3M Fineese-It II Machine Polish w/ PC with an Orange Light Cutting Foam Pad
7. Buff off with a plush microfiber towel
8. Next I use Klasse AIO w/ PC using a White Polishing Foam pad (Gets rid of hazy look casued by 3M)
9. Buff off w/ a plush microfiber towel
10. Then I apply Klasse Sealant Guard by hand w/ a Terry covered Foam Applicator (3 coats)
11. Wipe off w/ a MF towel
12. Top with S100/P21S wax
This works well for me. I can get rid of all swirls. And if u are washing and drying correctly, you should not get any swirls. Just be sure to use the right towels so you don't scratch the car (Pakshak or fiberworks).
So is this procedure ok? Anything I should add or change?
1. Wash w/ Sheepskin wash mitts
2. Dry w/ Waffle Weave Microfiber Towels
3. Clay
4. Wash
5. Dry w/ WWMF
6. Use 3M Fineese-It II Machine Polish w/ PC with an Orange Light Cutting Foam Pad
7. Buff off with a plush microfiber towel
8. Next I use Klasse AIO w/ PC using a White Polishing Foam pad (Gets rid of hazy look casued by 3M)
9. Buff off w/ a plush microfiber towel
10. Then I apply Klasse Sealant Guard by hand w/ a Terry covered Foam Applicator (3 coats)
11. Wipe off w/ a MF towel
12. Top with S100/P21S wax
This works well for me. I can get rid of all swirls. And if u are washing and drying correctly, you should not get any swirls. Just be sure to use the right towels so you don't scratch the car (Pakshak or fiberworks).
So is this procedure ok? Anything I should add or change?
You are wasting not only product but also your time. There is no reason to:
Wash - dry - clay and then wash and dry all over again.
Instead wash the car and rinse it but don't dry it. Take your soap solution that you have pre-mixed in a spray bottle and start to clay your paint and rinse as you go along. This should be done in the cool of the day and out of the sun. You can even clay an area, say the roof, rinse it and then dry it and move on down, claying, rinsing and drying as you go along. Now if you enjoy taking the time to do these steps then by all means please continue
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I would not use the 3M every time you polish. Rather go for something a bit finer, like Menzerna FPII or Optimum Polish. Using these products with a finishing pad may give you better results in one step rather than 2 steps.
Anthony
#75
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Originally Posted by uzj100
Thanks, Deanski! And FWIW, I polish in one direction say horizontally, then remove vertically. I layer on the wax back and forth, up and down then diagonally in one direction and diagonally in the other direction (an "X" pattern, and 4 layers). I have a minor spider web here and there, but by and large the finish is pretty flawless and swirl free.
I'll post on the durability as the detail"ages"
You might want to give the FK sample kit a try? But, as your signature says--"find what works and stick with it."
(Again, I have no affiliation with FK)
I'll post on the durability as the detail"ages"
You might want to give the FK sample kit a try? But, as your signature says--"find what works and stick with it."
(Again, I have no affiliation with FK)
Just seeking to help out,
Anthony