Any recommendations on tire pressures?? Perhaps a little overinflation will help to minimize outer wear. I'm headed to the track tomorrow and after reading these posts I'm wishing I'd had had it aligned last week with as much neg camber as possible. My 993 was possible to get 1 deg neg in front and much more in rear... problem on that car was prematurely wearing out on the INSIDE while driving around town using alignment best optimized for track handling. At least 997 tire wear asymmetry favors an alignment setting that's more conducive for track handling anyways!

 

Hi Mjones,

Awesome to know that it can be done. How did you do it?

Was it on a 997?

"-41'" What is -41?

Is that how much negative camber you put in??

Thanks,
Greg

 

I usually run a tad high in the back and normal in the front.

I highly recommend getting a good tire pressure gage and use it before/after every session.

Make sure you dont run to high or too low.

Adjust pressures can make a difference and playing with the pressure settings can actually be interesting and fun.

Have a blast at your DE.

Greg

 

[QUOTE=crispenigl]Hi Mjones,

Awesome to know that it can be done. How did you do it?
Was it on a 997?
"-41'" What is -41?
Is that how much negative camber you put in??
/QUOTE]

Had the alignment done at my dealer.
The amiunt of neg camber was limited by the adjustment slot in the trunk.
-41' i= -41minutes of a degree.
-50' would be -1/2 of a degree.

As well a couple pounds of extra tire pressure in the front will help keep them from rooling over as bad on the outer edge

 

there are 60 mins in a degree. If the alignment computer is calibrated for degrees+minutes, then one degree=60 minutes(30 minutes or 30'=1/2 degree). OR it can be set for degrees only without minutes designation but with a decimal for example.... 0.5=1/2 degree which would be 30 minutes.

So, with minutes convention if -41', then that is -41/60 of a degree. -50' would be -50/60 of a degree.

If the calibration of the machine was in degrees only, and not degrees and minutes, then it would use a decimal point for portion of a degree. If that actual setting was -41 minutes, then would be shown as -0.6 degrees.

If your sheet says -41', then that is 41/60 of a degree or approvimately 2/3 of a degree (-0.6) so you have a bit more neg camber than you thought.

The factory delivered front axle specification is -15 minutes for the standard C2, -25 minutes for PASM C2, -30 minutes for standard C4, and -40 minutes for C4S.

 

you posted at 4 am pst - where you up as well watching F1 MJones?

 

porsche specs for 997s w/ -20mm suspension has front camber -0.5 deg +/- -0.25 deg so a -0.75 deg in front is not too aggresssive.

i have just done an alignment on my 997s with -0.7 deg front -2 deg rear and +0.02 front toe. the car turn is improved and understeer in reduced. straight line stability is still pretty good.

as for tire pressure i ran 40psi front and rear.

 

for PS2, i run 38/40 psi hot.

PS2 are street tires but you will be surprised how sticky they are on track. the reason you will toast these tires isn't b/c the tires, it's due to lack of camber. i run -1.3/-2.0 deg on a completely stock cayman. the outside was wrom significantly more than inside. it saw 700 track miles and 3500 street miles.

 

Where do you go to do the camber adjustments?

TY
Greg

 

ps 2 38 /40 I drove the mess out of mine on the track last year maybe 12 weekends and a couple of singles days .. i loved the car on the track. i had lowering springs and then went to pss9s . i did a four wheel negative camber i think -.5 rear -1.1 front what a greeat feeling ... ps2 only good for about 6 days 5 was fine ...6th they started going away.

i would recomend SRF fluid held up all season no bleeding i pushed the car pretty dang hard actually got it so hot the rear calipers leaked and blew fluid ... not good

i ran pagid yellows they held up well with no major problems to the rotors.

my only problem was even with psm off the PSM would kick in when really rotating the car and pushing car to the limits.

you should track it great car from the factory to run on the track

tires good luck... corsas are probably the best i found for the money..only problem is tire rack etc. will say they wont fit because rear is supose to be 3/4" taller than front and corsa dont come that way.

I did not seem to have a problem with them ran 2:12s at vir full with lowering sprins and corsas

i did alot of talking and ivestigating on the set ups let me know if you have any questions

 

ldw,

what are the factory settings for the rears?

 

Ran my 997S on Sunday and was delighted!! Even as heavy as it is, it was very impressive right out of the box relative to my old 993. For one, PCCBs worked phenomenally with no fade... no more needing to swap out street pads for Pagid Oranges on DE days! PS2s were even not as bad for street rubber as I might have thought, though I started by running 36/38 cold pressures and think that was probably too high but only had one run session in the 997 so didn't get to experiment with that. Track rubber is a definite must though, so I'm interested to hear tire size recommendations from folks too. I'm planning to go w/ 18" rims for track use (lower unsprung weight, cheaper tires, less harsh, more choices). 295/30-18 PSCs in rear would be -4% speedo error but same width as OE. 305/30-18s are closer at -3% but will they rub?? 275/38-18s are closer still (only -1.5%) but less tire and pushes handling bias back towards oversteer. On front, what is possible using an 8.5" width w/o rubbing?

 

Yes the PS2 are very sticky. I went adjusted the -ve camber at the ring just for the 8 laps. They made the maximum -ve camber adjustment €200 later, the car was quite neutral on the 'ring. Ran 34f/34r cold. PCCB was tireless but I had to replace the PS2 just last week after 3.5 mths of ownership. I squeezed as much as I could out of it but the 1 track day and 3500km run took its toll.

 

With negitive camber in the front how does the car drive as a daily driver on the street?

 

depends on how much camber you have. up to 1.5 is fine. inside will wear out more, but not much. at 2 deg, you really chew up the tires fast.

it's the toe you are more concerned with. zero toe or tow out helps turn in, but you may feel the car following road grooves a lot more. i dont really mind on mine.

also, if you do max caster, the steering effort increases ever so slightly, i like it.