crispenigl

Hi folks,

On my current 996, I am getting a brade pad wear alarm, but when I visual inspect the pads, it looks like I have plenty of pad left. Anyone ever seen a false alarm on the break wear warning?

Maybe I am not looking at the right place to determine the amount of pad that is left?

Thanks,
Greg

pcar964

Here's what you do...

1) Locate the nearest wire cutters
2) Cut the brake pad sensors, leaving about 2 inches of wire on each end (do this for each corner)
3) Splice the wires together and clamp a wire cap on the end

TADA!! No more warning lights to worry about. They're worthless. You should be checking the pads periodically anyway, so a Porsche owner shouldn't need a warning light to know it's time to change the pads... Don't be afraid to pull the wheels off and have a look. Porsche brake pads are some of the easiest to remove/replace, there's nothing to it.

As far as "Do my pads need replacement?" Well, that depends on your driving. Keep in mind that the thicker the pads, the better their ability to dissipate heat. This is important on the track, especially if you're using stock pads (already not great at heat dissipation).

If you're using the car only on the street as a daily driver or weekend cruiser, then you could really use the pads until there's very little meat left on them. Just keep an eye on them.

MJones

Good rule of thumb!
When the pad thickness is equal to the thickness of the backing plate its time to replace the pads!

crispenigl

How do I see the thickness of the backing plate?

TIA

Greg

crispenigl

LOL.

I drive street and track. Im only going to go to one last track DE for its last hurrah. I dont want to replace the pads again unless I really have to.

Thank you very much for all this information. The pads seem pretty thick to me still at least 3/4 of a cm.

Maybe I should take some pix and post them?

aaoun

whoa, brake pad sensor? i haven't heard of this. does the 997 have this? where does it tell you (on the on-board computer)?

pcar964

3/4 cm is probably fine. It's really easier if you have a separate set of pads for the track, that way your streets don't get destroyed (and the factory pads are expensive!) But I guess you're selling your car, what are you replacing it with?

By the way, you might want to disconnect the brake pad sensors and zip-tie them out of the way for track use - they get brittle and break apart if they get too hot, especially if they're old. Maybe one of your sensors crumbled apart from the heat of a previous DE, which is causing the warning light to go off?

crispenigl

Howdy -

Maybe my local body shop could help me with swapping the pads.

I cant believe how much the factory pads are Ill get some other pads for the 997 once that arrives. [Prolly search these forums to see what people are using]

I am getting a new 997 from my sig ->
On order: 997s w/ x51 black on black
Current driver: 2003 996 w/ PSE black on black

My car was suppossed to arrive in Feb, then March and now April

My friend is bringing his new cayman S to the next event and will be kicking my *** I need reinforcements [x51]

How do I do that? Any Urls on how to disconnect the pad sensors?

My sensor doesnt come on right away - only after about 5 to 10 minutes of driving the car.

Thanks again in advance.

Greg

TT Surgeon

Gregg, check your fluid, and don't cut the wires.

crispenigl

Thanks - Ill try that.

What about the fact that it lights up after a few minutes? in the past it came on right as i started the car.

pcar964

crispenigl, ask your mechanic to show you the procedure for removing the pads, you won't believe how simple it is...

1) remove wheel
2) use pliers to compress cross-shaped spring and swivel out of the way
3) use screwdriver as lever between rotor and pad to press caliper pistons back slightly
4) slide brake pad out

Installation is reverse.

The silly sensors clip into the middle of the brake pad, you'll be able to see them as soon as you remove the wheel (see below picture, different caliper but you get the idea)

Bob Rouleau

You forgot to mention that you have to remove the retaining pin across the top of the caliper first. The one in the picture is a bolt which is standard on the GT3, not sure aboout a 996. In any case it has to come of before you can remove the flat spring.

best,

crispenigl

Hi Pcar964,

Your posts are very appreciated and thanks again!!

Thanks for the steps. I am tempted to try it so I can feel like a F1 mechanic

Question about the picture - is it the red wire that I manipulate?

Thanks,
Greg

Bob Rouleau

Greg - there are two wires, one for each sensor. The black one in the picture above is the main wire it carries the signals from both sensors back up to the inside of the car. The red one is an extension from the main wire to the sensor on the outside (nearest the wheel). Be careful removing the sensors, they are a friction fit into a slot and quite fragile. They're made of some sort of ceramic material which is quite brittle. Be VERY gentle when you remove them else they break off. Note how they fit, they can only go back in one way and if you try to force them the wrong way, they break.

In case it is not apparent, current flows through the sensors, when the pad gets worn to the point where it rubs through the sensor it breaks the circuit and this is what turns on the light. Cutting the wires assures a red light so don't do it. If yoou chose to remove the sensors, make sure the wires are shorted together, i.e the two reds and the second pair. That prevents the red light from coming on but you lose the benefit. If you take the sensors off, tie wrap the wires to a safe spot in the wheel well where they won't move with the suspension too much and away from rocks and debris.

As stated above the job is dead simple and will teach you how to swap your own pads. I have posted a detailed description in the DIY forum for a GT2/3 but the task is very similar on other models.

To check the sensors you do not need to remove the pads, you can gently pry/pull them out. See if they are still intact. A cracked sensor will cause the light to come on. So will a cut wire. Inspect both. If you need a new one the parts are stock at the dealer and cheap.

If you need more info, PM me.

best,

TD in DC

The instructions for a 996 are slightly different.

a) remove wheel.
b) remove cotter pin from rear of shaft that holds in the brake pads (the picture shows a bolt, which you do not have on a standard 996).
c) use a narrow screwdriver or punch and a hammer and lightly rap out the shaft out from the outside of the car to the inside. It doesn't take much force, but it will not come out unless you have removed the cotter pin (or you have forgotten to remove the cotter pin and you pound right through it).
d) the metal clip, which is held in by the shaft, will simply fall out to the ground when the shaft is more than half-way out, or you can grab it with your hand.
e) use a big pipe plier to spread the old calipers apart as far as you can. This is very important because it will be hard to get the new pads in if you do not use the old pads to push in the calipers as far as possible. Do not use the caliper itself for leverage or you will unnecessarily scratch your calipers. Instead, put the pliers between the two metal prongs on the brake pads and spread them from the inside out.
f) remove the pads without disturbing the sound-reducing metal sheets. They usually stay put, but you can put them back in if they come out, but just make sure they are between the pads and the calipers not the pads and the rotor.
g) insert new pads
h) place metal clip back on top of the new pads and hold in position until you have the shaft reinserted
i) reinsert shaft from the inside to the outside (it only fits one way) and make sure that you orient the hole correctly so that you can easily reinsert the cotter pin.
j) resinsert the cotter pin.
k) PROPERLY BED YOUR NEW PADS before you do any significant driving.

Hope this helps. It really takes no time whatsoever to do after you have done it once.