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I had a similar, but opposite experience. the first p car I speced out and ordered was a rather spartan C2, I was in a little sticker shock at the price of options. While waiting for the car I really had second thoughts, when it came in,so did a C4S speced out almost to a tee in what I originally wanted. They made me a sweet deal and somebody else got the C2.
So much happier I ended up with what I really wanted all along.
There are really many factors that contribute to the decision:
If it's a daily driver and you put on lots of miles, buy used. Otherwise, you will sustain that first depreciation hit over the first months of ownership.
Tip vs manual: The Tip is least likely to have sustained drive line abuse, and is therefore the safer choice
Known history: Original owner vs dealer is better for used car in my opinion
Your intent: If you flip cars often, buy used. The warranty protects you, and your decision is transient awaiting only your next whim.
The deal: Everything is relative. If it's a great deal, take the chance on used.
Your affluence: If 10 grand doesn't matter, buy new
How close to your real desire: If the used car is very much what you want, that's great. But even if the deal is good, but the car doesn't satisfy your emotional need, don't buy it. Cars are emotional more than practical. Otherwise we'd be in Kia's. If the used car will leave you dissatisfied, walk away. There is ALWAYS another car to be had. AS
very thoughful analysis and very well said....thanks for the summary....
I made the mistake of telling my local Porsche dealer that I would buy the first 997 they got into inventory. Well they called and said it was in and I bought it. It was a base 997 coupe in Artic with the Stone interior. None of the equipment I originally wanted, and not really the color I wanted. After driving the car for 4 months (1650 miles) I am tired of it. Please don't get me wrong, the car is wonderful and a joy to drive. I wanted the S with the PSE exhaust.
If I ever get another Porsche I will order it exactly as I want, not as I find it.
Spending a huge sum of money on your dream car, and not having what you really wanted doesn't make a lot of sense. I also would not buy used. The miles accumulated on the odo do not tell an accurate history of the cars background. Buying new avoids this significant problem.
No one has ever said, "boy are you lucky to get the FIRST P car sold at your dealership".
very true, for this kind of emotional, sports car, price and availablity is great but if it is a dream car, you must get the color and options you really want, whether it is used or new....thats why on the used cars i have looked at, the sport shifter and pse are not crucial because they can be added later, but the sport chrono, power seats, etc, are a must as is a color i really can live with ....
No one has ever said, "boy are you lucky to get the FIRST P car sold at your dealership".
But there's something to be said for the desire to be the "first on your block" or in your town to own a new model. ... Hence the recent discussion on the willingness to pay a hefty markup on a newly released model.
Originally Posted by Alexander Stemer
Tip vs manual: The Tip is least likely to have sustained drive line abuse, and is therefore the safer choice.
You would think so. I would say it also depends on the age and sex of the previous owner of that Tip. If it was a lady in her 50s who had it serviced regularly, then, yeah, that would be a creampuff of a car. But if it was a young guy who had wished all along he had gotten a 6-speed, stay away from that Tip. Ask me how I know.
I bought my truck in Florida a few years ago and transported it to RI when I was living there. Florida law required that sales tax be paid there reguardless if the car is being shipped out of state. Sales tax is 6%, and you would have to pay the difference (if any) to your local state. You do not get re-imbursement if you have no local sales tax. The out the door price would include sales tax to Florida.
I just realized I made a huge error in the price of my car that was posted with added transport fees from another dealership in S.C.
The price on the sticker on my 05 Carrera S was $83,000. But, my dealer went the extra mile and searched every dealership in the country for the car I wanted. I live in FL .... it was found in Greeville S.C. In my last post, I indicated the transport fees were $6,000! Whoa! That was the sales tax! It only cost me $600 to transport the car. $83k+ $6k taxes, tag, title= $89,000. They gave me a small break and I ended up paying exactly $90k for the car.... tax, tag and title. That makes a bit more sense, doesn't it? Doh!
Sales tax does not get enough discussion on this board. A word about buying used. Find out if your state charges sales tax on used cars purchased from private parties. AZ does not. Here's what I saved:
05 C2S MSRP - $104k
Including Tax $112K
w/1800 miles $ 89K (what I paid)
Sales Tax $ 0 (what I paid)
Savings $ 23K Compared to buying new
Downside is 1 yr less warranty, but I haven't kept a car for more than 13 months since 2000.
Buy the way.. The car was pristine. As 'new-feelling' as any new Porsche, BMW or Benz I've ever purchased. I don't think I'll ever buy new again (if I can help it).
I don't think I'll ever buy new again (if I can help it).
I agree. The only reason I bought my car new was because 2004 was the first year for the C4S Cab. I had my eye on slightly used coupe C4S, but when the cab was introduced, I couldn't help myself.
When I'm ready to get my next Porsche I'll certainly look for a very lightly used... buy used, lease new.
On the sales tax issue, and specifically for states in which it is charged, here is something I think works:
In the two states I have lived, sales tax on a used car is based on your bill of sale. From a private owner, this is just a piece of paper.
Is there anything to stop you from requesting a second bill of sale with a much lower price? For every $10,000 difference, the savings will be $600 if the tax is 6%.
Does the state ever verify what was paid? AS
Is there anything to stop you from requesting a second bill of sale with a much lower price? AS
In Washington State the DMV also does a Kelly Blue Book valuation of the car. I recently bought a used Mini Cooper S for my wife and got a great deal from a private party in New Jersey, actually below KBB. Before the DMV would use a lower basis than KBB's value I had to prove that the lower price was all the car was worth (i.e., take it to an auto shop to ensure there was damages, get an assessors report, etc.) Because the car wasn't worth less and I coulnd't justify the price (other than great negotiating skills...I wish) I ended getting charged more sales tax than what I actually paid for the car. So, long story short, your second bill of sale wouldn't be able to be outside the KBB norms even if "scruples" weren't an issue - so huge savings are not in the cards. At least in Washington.
In Washington State the DMV also does a Kelly Blue Book valuation of the car. I recently bought a used Mini Cooper S for my wife and got a great deal from a private party in New Jersey, actually below KBB. Before the DMV would use a lower basis than KBB's value I had to prove that the lower price was all the car was worth (i.e., take it to an auto shop to ensure there was damages, get an assessors report, etc.) Because the car wasn't worth less and I coulnd't justify the price (other than great negotiating skills...I wish) I ended getting charged more sales tax than what I actually paid for the car. So, long story short, your second bill of sale wouldn't be able to be outside the KBB norms even if "scruples" weren't an issue - so huge savings are not in the cards. At least in Washington.
That's just the thieving state gov't at work. What's next, higher sales tax when you buy a TV that's on sale?
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